Alternator not charging battery

[str8stang036]

I checked the voltage from the postive post of the alternator and a ground and got 11.5. The battery was at approx the same voltage.

I don't seem to have a fusible link. I just have a cable going from the positive post of battery to positive post of alternator, nothing else.

The alt fuse is good. The only ground I have to the block is coming from the inner fender. I moved the battery to rear,so there is no negative straight from the battery to block.

 

[HISSIN50]

I checked the voltage from the postive post of the alternator and a ground and got 11.5. The battery was at approx the same voltage.

I don't seem to have a fusible link. I just have a cable going from the positive post of battery to positive post of alternator, nothing else.

The alt fuse is good. The only ground I have to the block is coming from the inner fender. I moved the battery to rear,so there is no negative straight from the battery to block.

Did you ever get the alternator replaced? It sounds like it's simply bad.

The fusible links are generally in the charge cable near the driver's side of the PS pump. You often have to peel back the wire loom a little. Yours sound to be fine since you see battery voltage at the back of the alternator.

Good luck.

 

[str8stang036]

Hissin- The alternator has been checked at 3 different locations and its has passed at 3 of them. I couldn't get it exchanged because it still works, so they can't give me a new one based on warranty.

Is there a connector from that fusible link to the alternator cables? What does it look like, how many pins?

 

[HISSIN50]

Hissin- The alternator has been checked at 3 different locations and its has passed at 3 of them. I couldn't get it exchanged because it still works, so they can't give me a new one based on warranty.

Is there a connector from that fusible link to the alternator cables? What does it look like, how many pins?

The fusible links are soldered to the charge cable itself.

If your alt bench tests ok: Does the battery light illuminate when you turn the key on (but before you crank the engine over)? If so, is the battery light ever on while the car idles?

The regulator wires are known to vulcanize. Pell back the loom and check the wires. If any of them are open, the alt can shut down.

 

[str8stang036]

I have a custom instrument panel, so I don't know whether the light is on or not. I did peel back the loom on the cables and checked for continuity. They checked out fine.

I feel I have the opposite end of the alternator connector to the wrong connector. The connector from the back of the regulator, where does it go after it leaves the regulator, where does it plug into?

 

[HISSIN50]

Again, the regulator terminals are labeled ASI. If you didnt connect the lt grn/red or red/lt grn (it changes color at the cluster), the alt doesnt know it needs to turn on. This is why I asked about your idiot light.

If you have doubts, you have options. The OEM circuit has fused 12 volts (Fuse 18) run to the amp light on the dash. In parallel with the amp light is a 500 ohm resistor (for in case the bulb burns out). You can use a little light bulb under the dash (or in the dash) along with a resistor in parallel if you want this to be like OEM. Otherwise, you can connect the red/lt grn wire to a 500 Ohm resistor and then to accessory power. At the regulator, this wire is lt grn/red and should show some voltage with the car idling. If it shows nothing, you know you have an issue or open circuit.

 

[str8stang036]

I think I fixed the problem. I scrapped the stock plug by the battery for the alternator. Using the ASI markings Hissin was talking about I hooked it up to an ignition source in the car and that made all the difference. Now I see 14 volts when the car idles and while driving. Hopefully this was it. Thanks for all the help guys. If anything else happens Ill keep you updated.