aluminum driveshaft question
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Illuminator
Active Member
I've had the same question, and did some research....as far as I can tell the Ford Racing shaft is good for upto 400 hp, and if you have the money to spare, a carbon fibre unit can take upto 800 depending on which brand you choose. Other than that need to go for a heavy duty steel unit for over 400. There are other aluminum shafts custom built that can take more depending on size ( clearance for fox's exhaust seems to be an issue)
ratio411
Founding Member
They handle a good bit of power...
GM put them on the 98-02 LSx/T56 F-bodies...
I tortured the one in my Z28.
GM put them on the 98-02 LSx/T56 F-bodies...
I tortured the one in my Z28.
I've had the FRPP aluminum drive shafts on both my cars for years now. I don't notice the difference after all these years but when I first installed them I could not believe how much smoother with less vibration the car drove.
That alone was worth the cost for me.
That alone was worth the cost for me.
Deffinitly smoother , mine came from a friend with a 351 76mm turbo with a c4 that car went 9.23 with it and began to twist the input spline before anything was wrong with the drive shaft , I think they are a little stronger then we give credit for !!
Illuminator
Active Member
Denny's Driveshaft's had some good info for shafts http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/ and chrome moly pinion and slip yokes for both ends. If expense is no concern check out the carbon fiber units here http://www.pstds.com/
Sounds like a personal problem right there
I see what you did there you got me !
well i was wanting to go with a 347 stroker in the future.sounds like it should be able to handle that.i would imagine u can get heavy duty yolk and u-joints for it right...and i definetly have vibration issues right now.if the aluminum shaft can help with that it would be great.
ratio411
Founding Member
Since we are now talking about the total package... u-joints and yoke, I will point out that u-joints WITHOUT provisions for grease fittings are stronger than u-joints made to be greased.
Just a heads up.
Just a heads up.
Illuminator
Active Member
I read the same ^^^^^ high quality u-joint's usually don't have grease fittings because they don't tend to lose grease. And the fact it adds a fracture point in the geometry. I too have rpm induced vibration in my drive line. Changed axle bearings, trans mount, checked run out on tailshaft, etc... got better after removing stock rubber trans mount with a urethane one, as I'm pretty sure the solid engine mounts with the soft rubber trans mount was an outlet for the vibration... anyone else have ideas? Seems there's a lot of posts here with different culprits for the vibe.
Shakerhood
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
I have a ford racing shaft. Why would changing to aluminum make a vibration go away? Seems to me if your shaft is vibrating something is not concentric or the balance has been thrown off somehow. Replacing with a new steel shaft will prob give you the same results.
I Da Know? All I know is this made a "drastic" improvement in both my cars. I'm guessing the aluminum units are built alot straighter than the metal ones. That along with less weight equals less vibration.
Also I'm sure the lighter weight improves performance too. Less rotating mass.
Although I don't have numbers to back that up.
What could have happened is you did something to the steel. Unit and when you bought the aluminum unit it was a new straight and true unit
I believe you are talking about a balancing issue. It is possible for your stock 25 year old driveshaft to be out of balance. I have used aluminum shafts in over 500rwhp applications with no trouble. I currently use a steel shaft in my car that just made 1327 rwhp and have friends with bigger budgets than me who run carbon fiber shafts one making in excess of 2000 rwhp and never had an issue.
Balancing in think is the key to your bad vibrations.
Balancing in think is the key to your bad vibrations.
I could be wrong, but I always heard that if you run solid engine mounts, you should run a solid tranny mount also.
ratio411
Founding Member
It's the other way around.
Never run a solid tranny mount without solid engine mounts.
You can go the other way without issue.
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