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Discussion in '1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by Nightfire, Dec 5, 2012.
Any updates Nightfire
Just finished acquiring all the miscellaneous parts. I've got everything now. Now it's just a scheduling issue. Since the car is my DD and I've been extremely busy with work lately, Im just trying to find time to get it done. I figure that it'll be down for at least a week, maybe more since I have to trailer it 300 miles to get it tuned
Are you going to come this way to San Antonio or where at?
Buy a $900 Beater. Thats what I did. Now I mod my car whenever I want, and just drive the beater as a backup.
Albequerque, NM. They've got one of the best Mustang tuners in the southwest, Dyno Edge. Unfortunately, I live in a city that seems to be ricer haven. Imports are, by far, the more popular car choice here. What few shops we've got here cater to imports.....and they are garbage shops at that. It sucks that I've got to drive across an entire state to have my car tuned.
Better to get your car tuned at a closer elevation to what you are used to in NM. Make sure they spend at least 1-2 days on a fully built, SC tune.
Yeah be sure they spend some time on your car instead of getting you in and out fast. A shop in in my area I noticed seems to do that frequently with their tunes.
Any quick guesses as to what a 3.2 and a 3.6 pulley would boost with the stock crank/pullies on a stock heads/cams 2V with full exhaust?
Id suggest a 2618 alloy piston over the 4032 for just a little bit more $$, worth it with a blower set-up. If you need internals let me know if I can help....
How big is your stock balancer? The step up ratios of prochargers are much different than Vortech/Paxton units. Paxton's are generally 4-4.6:1. I think the D1sc is a 4.1. A 3.2 pulley sounds like a hell of a small pulley for that step up, but I'm just thinking of my stock balancer is 7.25 and our overdrives are 8 inches.
I'd guess you will see 2-3psi more than a head/cam car. The beauty of a properly built/tuned motor, is as long as you have the fueling, just pulley down and let it eat.
I have no clue what size the stock balancer is. Everything on the front of the motor is stock
The step-p on the D1SC is 4.10. The guy I bought the kit from said that the 3.2 would put out about 14psi on a stock heads/cams 4.6 2V but I dont know how accurate he was with that. Does 14psi sound about right?
I need some help on BOV's. I want to run an open BOV. I will be running a blow-through setup so a BOV can be used. Is there any way to use the Procharger bypass valve flange to mount the BOV?
You can mount just about any BOV in trick locations. Main thing is to keep compressor surge down, all will do it if you pick the right size/spring. A perfect BOV for a D1SC(1400cfm blower)would be a Tial 50. I ran 2 different Vortech BOV's, 1 turbosmart, and then settled on a Tial 50 (#3 spring) with the 3 different blowers on my C6. It sounded the best, worked great, and had no flutter.
I've got a brand new turbosmart BOV in the box if you want it. I'm not going to have a use for it as it will be too small at 1000rwhp, but works great up to 700rwhp as in my YouTube videos. But I'll admit, I have a little ricer in me. Here is my Novi 1500/T trim(1200cfm blower) with a Tial50. Complete street sweeper and opened at 1500-2000rpm under cruise to scare the women and kids. instead of using the procharger Big Red unit, which is extremely loud, I'm going to use a dual Tial 50 setup on my FRC build, play with them and the springs to make sure I'm not losing any ET in between shifts.
BOV's are really just physics on a centri. You can ask any 10 guys in the vette racing community. You might get 10 different responses, probably the same with the mustang and import community.
Depending on the flange you have you could also use the large Red Procharger Valve, it use the same mount as the large red bypass valve. Otherwise I am also a TiAL fan or Race Part Solutions has some lower cost alternatives that work very well also... or if you want very loud look into a Blitz.
Would you guys suggest H or I beams? Both are 4340 alloy.
H-beams, you can make 800rwhp or more on them with no issues. Im running http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/man14042-8.htm w/ arp 2000 bolts.
Depends on what you want. At the same weight, an I beam will be stronger, but probably more expensive. If you are looking for a lot of RPM, I beams are better because they can have the same strength at a lower weight. However, an H-beam is fine until you start getting into really serious horsepower and/or RPM, and will be cheaper until that point.
Im looking at the MMR rod/piston combos. Both use MMR forged pistons (which MMR says are good for 1000hp), ARP hardware, etc. One kit uses Manley 4340 I beams and the other uses 4340 H-beams. I have no idea what the weights are but the H-beam kit is only $100 more. I will be using a forged Kellog crank if that matters. I need to order the rotating assembly ASAP as Ive got the appointments/schedule at the shop. I came down to the absolute last ordering screen on MMR for the H-beam kit but couldn't hit "confirm" without checking in with my stangnet partners first.....
I love the Tial BOVs. The tial 50mm bovs make more of PSSHHHH sounds (which I like). The Procharger BR is a PSSSHHHH and I know its EXTREMELY loud. What do you guys think about Greddy? I found this vid of a blown 2V GT with a greddy S valve and it makes more of a turbo whistle instead of a PSHHHHH. I love the whistle......