Another Turbo Fox Build Thread

[SMOKEDYA]

Yea but dude... The 351 kits are fairly new.. I don't trust ANY company when a product first comes out. I would have waited until other people had issues and the company worked the bugs out before buying a new kit.

I see your point 100% and releazed i need to mellow out just pissed and say stuff wrong and rudly when upset (it's human nature).Just so pissed of some things with it that happened.Hopefully on3 will work with me on what i'm asking from them.And also research the 351 kit more and/or take what they have learned from me on future manurfacturing them.peace














john

 

[SMOKEDYA]

Kit came in today. I've no complaints so far, as far as a first look over goes, other than some of the fins on the intercooler being tweaked from packaging.

Cold side.

View attachment 210613

Hot side.

Y-pipe and turbo.

I didn't get pictures of all the couplers, v-bands, etc yet. And Chad's still waiting on the PMAS's to come in so he can ship mine out.

Not much progress on the car, because it's been entirely too hot to spend any time out in the shop.

From the looks of your coldside?It looks as if your pipeing will run down NOT threw the inner fender off the turbo?Does your direction say to run it threw?But then on the pictures does it show it running threw and also in another picture show it running stright downwards?peace






john

 

[lancec2c30]

Hey John, here's my directions quoted from the word doc, and a few of the install pictures he sent.

From the pictures, and skimming through the directions it looks like it goes down off the turbo.

14. Next you will have to get started plumbing up your cold side tubing. We normally start out at the turbo, you will attach the supplied 2 ½” coupler. The intercooler piping now is 2.5” going from compressor to intercooler and 3” from outlet to throttle body. The first pipe to go out of the compressor to the inner fender is the short pipe with an abrupt, quick 90 bend at the end. The straight section attaches to the compressor outlet. Next is the pipe to take you down to the bottom of the core support. Then you have just a complete straight section to take you to the opposite side of the car. Then the last going into the intercooler is the 180 degree pipe with the blow off valve flange that will end up plumbing into the intercooler. During all of this process we will normally not clamp the tubing tightly because you will have to move around some of the tubing to get everything adjusted correctly. Once you have the tubing ran to this point, it will give you an idea on where to mount your intercooler. We normally use something to support the intercooler at this point and try to continue plumbing up your intercooler pipes. This leaves you just the last two pipes, the outlet of the intercooler is the long 90 degree pipe and your last 3” pipe will take you up to the throttle body. Also you may have to shave a little material from the bolts in the lower fog light bracket on GT cars to make sure you are not contacting the intercooler pipe. Once all pipes are on in later steps and before you tighten all pipes down, test fit the bumper to make sure your intercooler situated correctly and that you wont have any clearance issues with the top, bottom, etc of your bumper. This way you assure yourself not to work backwards

View attachment 210611

View attachment 210612

 

[lancec2c30]

Mocked up the turbo header, turbo, and downpipe so I could figure out a location to mount my wideband bung. But the sensor won't reach, so I need to put it in the Y-pipe. Mocking that up is gonna be a PITA so it'll have to wait.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

Hey John, here's my directions quoted from the word doc, and a few of the install pictures he sent.

From the pictures, and skimming through the directions it looks like it goes down off the turbo.



View attachment 210523

View attachment 210524

isnt there also another pic in the directions showing it going threw the inner fender?peace







john

 

[SMOKEDYA]

Hey John, here's my directions quoted from the word doc, and a few of the install pictures he sent.

From the pictures, and skimming through the directions it looks like it goes down off the turbo.



View attachment 210521

View attachment 210522

If you go by the pics and also by this quote from the directions "The first pipe to go out of the compressor to the inner fender is the short pipe with an abrupt, quick 90 bend at the end."It wont work. peace






john

 

[lancec2c30]

That's the only picture on my disc of the compressor housing.

But, you're right. I never noticed, the part of the directions you quoted doesn't make sense with the picture.

Another thing I wasn't clear on, he says you need to clock the center section of the turbo so the oil feed and drain lines are horizontal. But in the pictures it shows them vertical, which would make more sense.

 

[Rick 91GT]

The feed and drain have to be vertical +/- 10 degrees, it is very important or oil will sit and cake up at the bearing/bushing. The drain also should be atleast 3/4", with a -4 feed. mock up the turbo like you have in your photo, then loosen the bolts that attach the center section and rotate the center to the position you want, tighten as many of the bolts as you can. You want to mock up the pipes at this tiem to amke sure you have the turbo cloked correctly as well so your pipes fit properly. Pull the turbo off and tighten and tq them all.

I went through a bunch of turbo kit headaches with a HP set-up at my shop, if you need any advice Ill be glad to help.

I'd recommend a cover for the turbo exh housing, the DEI cover is very nice and effective, Taylor spark plug wires and heat sleeves (stay away from the MSD wires, I personally killed 3 sets...and I am a big advocate of the MSD wires I used them on nearly every build in my shop), keep everything away from the turbo, you will be shocked at the underhood heat it produces.

Ive got a AEM wideban mounted right near the trans in the single 3.5" pipe I am running and I get good readings, it is about 8" behind the 02's on this kit.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

I agree with rick as well on the clocking the turbo.I did my buddies quicktime kit and they say almost exactly what rick said.My kit says to do the same with the clocking the turbo,which makes no sence as well cause the return line is gravity feed as far as i can tell and have heard.But there could be some preasure pushing the oil out?But then to if the turbo is off there will be no more pressure which will need to rely on gravity.Although i'm no expert since you have my number i can help you also if on3 isnt open and you need help ASAP? I did alot more on mine this AM so i'll be updating my pics later.OH yeah MOCK up your alt with theyre new bracket for the alt with the turbo on before you get to much further!!!!!!!!! peace






john

 

[lancec2c30]

The feed and drain have to be vertical +/- 10 degrees, it is very important or oil will sit and cake up at the bearing/bushing. The drain also should be atleast 3/4", with a -4 feed. mock up the turbo like you have in your photo, then loosen the bolts that attach the center section and rotate the center to the position you want, tighten as many of the bolts as you can. You want to mock up the pipes at this tiem to amke sure you have the turbo cloked correctly as well so your pipes fit properly. Pull the turbo off and tighten and tq them all.

I went through a bunch of turbo kit headaches with a HP set-up at my shop, if you need any advice Ill be glad to help.

I'd recommend a cover for the turbo exh housing, the DEI cover is very nice and effective, Taylor spark plug wires and heat sleeves (stay away from the MSD wires, I personally killed 3 sets...and I am a big advocate of the MSD wires I used them on nearly every build in my shop), keep everything away from the turbo, you will be shocked at the underhood heat it produces.

Ive got a AEM wideban mounted right near the trans in the single 3.5" pipe I am running and I get good readings, it is about 8" behind the 02's on this kit.

Thanks for the tips. I clocked the center section and got my cold piping mocked up.

I've got the downpipe wrapped, going to wrap the crossover, and have a turbo blanket on my to buy list.

Do you think the wideband sensor would be alright just off the downpipe? If I had to guess, it would be straight down from the shifter on the trans, because that's where I stuck the sensor through the trans tunnel.

I agree with rick as well on the clocking the turbo.I did my buddies quicktime kit and they say almost exactly what rick said.My kit says to do the same with the clocking the turbo,which makes no sence as well cause the return line is gravity feed as far as i can tell and have heard.But there could be some preasure pushing the oil out?But then to if the turbo is off there will be no more pressure which will need to rely on gravity.Although i'm no expert since you have my number i can help you also if on3 isnt open and you need help ASAP? I did alot more on mine this AM so i'll be updating my pics later.OH yeah MOCK up your alt with theyre new bracket for the alt with the turbo on before you get to much further!!!!!!!!! peace






john

Yeah, I'm gonna shoot ya a text about something. Tomorrow I'll see how the alternator relocation setup works out.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

Lance,like we talked about tonight LMK tomorrow.Hey is your PMAS a blow threw you got from them?Your build is lookin sweet!peace











john

 

[lancec2c30]

Yeah, I'll keep you posted on that bracket. And yes, my PMAS is blow-threw. But I'm still waiting for it, they said their order of them would be in middle of last week. So I expect to see it before this Wed.

 

[lancec2c30]

Spent about half of today on the car. Got some help from my dad on the hotside setup, so that sped things up some.

Started by mounting the turbo to the header, installing 02's, and clocking the compressor housing.

Wrapped the downpipe, I don't see reason to go any farther down because it's all underneath the car from there.

Mounted the blow-off valve and got all the couplers and hose clamps on the cold side piping.

Only complaint so far is that I had to grind on the sway bar to get the drivers side cross-over pipe to clear. That and the allen head bolts to mount the wastegate can't be tightened down.... Gotta find some hex heads.

All the hotside is installed, injectors are back in, and the cold side is mocked up.

Gonna see what else I can get done tomorrow.

 

[S&B]

wow looks great

doing a bit of grinding is that much work for a turbo setup

 

[SMOKEDYA]

wow looks great

doing a bit of grinding is that much work for a turbo setup

is? or isnt? that much work.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

Spent about half of today on the car. Got some help from my dad on the hotside setup, so that sped things up some.

Started by mounting the turbo to the header, installing 02's, and clocking the compressor housing.

Wrapped the downpipe, I don't see reason to go any farther down because it's all underneath the car from there.

Mounted the blow-off valve and got all the couplers and hose clamps on the cold side piping.

Only complaint so far is that I had to grind on the sway bar to get the drivers side cross-over pipe to clear. That and the allen head bolts to mount the wastegate can't be tightened down.... Gotta find some hex heads.

All the hotside is installed, injectors are back in, and the cold side is mocked up.

Gonna see what else I can get done tomorrow.

I wish you were closer i have 2 extra mounting brackets i made for my intercooler.I dont know if your car is the same? But where my intercooler is mounted there is like these rubber holders that look like they would hold maybe a tranny cooler?So i used them and then for the top of the intercooler i used the brackets i made. Build still looking sweet!At this rate you will be done before me peace











john

 

[Rick 91GT]

I wish you were closer i have 2 extra mounting brackets i made for my intercooler.I dont know if your car is the same? But where my intercooler is mounted there is like these rubber holders that look like they would hold maybe a tranny cooler?So i used them and then for the top of the intercooler i used the brackets i made. Build still looking sweet!At this rate you will be done before me peace john

The rubber pieces/mounts were for the stock A/C condenser. I could not tell from your photos, does it have tabs on the top side of the intercooler for a mount? It is a lot of weight hanging off the two small bolts on the bottom that I assume go into the radiator support. I welded two additional tabs on the top side of the intercooler and used some 1/4" 6061 Alum 1" strap to make some hangers/mounts for the top, and use the radiator support to mount them firm. You dont want to intercooler to flex or move, and I would mount it as high as you can so it doesnt get all the debris from the street, try to get the core showing through the bumper cover opening.

Watch the clearance of the hot side near the lower radiator hose, power steering hosed and steering rack boots, you be surprised what melts....

Over the years I have learned nothing is a bolt on..lol I end up modifiing near every blower and turbo kit to fit to my liking. The next turbo car I do I'm making myself

 

[SMOKEDYA]

The way i mounted mine it's preaty solid. peace










john

 

[lancec2c30]

I wish you were closer i have 2 extra mounting brackets i made for my intercooler.I dont know if your car is the same? But where my intercooler is mounted there is like these rubber holders that look like they would hold maybe a tranny cooler?So i used them and then for the top of the intercooler i used the brackets i made. Build still looking sweet!At this rate you will be done before me peace











john

So did you just run a piece of bent flat bar or something up straight up to the core support?

wow looks great

doing a bit of grinding is that much work for a turbo setup

Yeah, it really wasn't that bad. But I think I still need to get after it a bit more. There is clearance when the sway bar has the load of the car on it. When the control arms drop, the pipe contacts it.

The rubber pieces/mounts were for the stock A/C condenser. I could not tell from your photos, does it have tabs on the top side of the intercooler for a mount? It is a lot of weight hanging off the two small bolts on the bottom that I assume go into the radiator support. I welded two additional tabs on the top side of the intercooler and used some 1/4" 6061 Alum 1" strap to make some hangers/mounts for the top, and use the radiator support to mount them firm. You dont want to intercooler to flex or move, and I would mount it as high as you can so it doesnt get all the debris from the street, try to get the core showing through the bumper cover opening.

Watch the clearance of the hot side near the lower radiator hose, power steering hosed and steering rack boots, you be surprised what melts....

Over the years I have learned nothing is a bolt on..lol I end up modifiing near every blower and turbo kit to fit to my liking. The next turbo car I do I'm making myself

Yeah, the intercooler has 2 threaded tabs on the top, and 2 on the bottom.

I'm gonna mock up my front bumper so I can set up the intercooler height. Gonna have to bust out the cut-off wheel though.

I can see I'll prolly be buying more heat wrap. The cold side and hotside are pretty close to each other it a few places.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

Yes thats all i did bend a piece of FB. peace










john