I got a V-1 S-trim from my friend, where can I get the punch to punch my oil pan for the oil return. Sears? or Lowes? if so what size, I have the fitting to screw in the oil pan but not sure of the size, anybody happen to know the size so I can get a tap? That would be awesome. I just looked on Vortech's website and they have a tapered punch for 26 bucks
That damn punch is impossible to find. You'll need a taperd punch from a hardware supply store. I used a washer to measure the size.
just get yourself a set from sears should run you $30ish. start small then go up to the bigger ones. this is the hardest part of the s/c install. if you have a stock pan you should be able to take it off with the engine in the car, that would be way eisier to do than punching the hole while in the car. trust me.
alright.. here's what you do: look in yellow pages - find a machine shop drive there and have them make you a punch in brass 30 degree rise. then take that home, drill a small 2-3mm hole at desiret spot for oil outlet. (i used a phillips screwdriver and punched a small star into my 3mm hole. then used my homemade punch to open her up, it took me 10 punches with a small ****ty hammer.. if you use a biggon then it should take seconds! (just be careful that you are holding the punch straight, rather use time then **** it up) this will create enough material to cut threads.. it should take the machine shop about 10 minutes and you will have a custom made punch that will make everything dandy enjoy
I also got a vortech for my 91 and I am looking for a punch and I can't find one..Does anyone have a pic of what these punches looks like? Is it like a chisel? I also need the oil drain plug for the pan..On superchargers.com they want $34 for that plug...I know that plug only costs about $3...Does anyone know what size that plug is?
You can all go kick yourself in the nuts! With that said, pick up a small punch to poke the initial hole in the pan. You then need to go to your local Home Depot or Lowes an pick up the cheapest, stubbiest plumb bob you can find. It should run less than $10 and is the PERFECT tool for the job. What your trying to do is flare the metal inwards to create enough surface area for the tap to bite into. You'll need to punch it a bit and then check the opening size with your tap to ensure you have the proper size. Once there is "just" enough of an opening for the tap to bite into your good to go. One last thing...make sure you use a good amount of grease while tapping the pan. You'll want to go slow and back it out frequently to clean the shavings off of the pan/tap. As far as the drain plug goes...I used a NPT to barbed fitting which you can find again, at your local hardware store.
The plumb bob thing is a good idea, you can get a drain plug at Pepboys or Advance. Look up the thread size in their computer or book. I found this, I don't how if I would wanna go this route instead...... http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=704862&goto=newpost
*Dont use anything but the real punch* Call Vortech and have them ship you the real punch for $28.95. I looked around for a few days straight for my 99 Cobra and didnt have any luck anywhere. Even had my buddy machine me a punch from what we thought we needed and I'm so glad I didnt use it. It may have worked but I might have screwed my pan up and buying a new pan and the stress of not knowing is not worth the $28.00 to get the real tapered punch. This thing looks nothing like what you can get ant any store I looked at. Sorta looks like a plumb bob like the other guy said but its not and has a stop ring to prevent over tapping ect not to mention its heat treated steel and the right size tapper! Once it hits that ring your done. No questions asked. No second guessing ect.. Also when your screwing in the new fitting, DO NOT GO PAST THE LAST THREE THREAD ON THE NPT fitting. To far you will loose the taper on this as well and may leak. NPT is not the same as regular threads. There is a tapper on it just for fluids to prevent them from leaking. That also means you have to use a NPT tap also. NOT A STANDARD TAP. Like the guy above said, you need the materials from being rolled inwards for the tapping and making new threads. There is not much room for error on this step! To big of a hole and your fittings will leak oil or worse not even tighten up. You will then have to get a different tape along with a different fitting. Best way if you can drop the pan is weld in a bung! But on the 99 and up 4v's you have to drop the K and thats not worth it for one fitting imo. Dont use sealing tape of any kind either. Use paste on all the fittings and let dry good. Use a small angled magnet also to get any metal that may have broke off inside the pan. Good luck, do it the right way and dont try and save a few bucks by rigging up some punch cuz it will come back to haunt you imo... Measure twice, punch once -Banger AKA newbie here
that whole punching a hole thing is scary.............i mean, threading a little bit of flared metal? yikes
Thats why Welding it in is best but on the mod engines you have to drop the K just to get the pan off and most dont want to deal with that including me It scared me to thats why I made sure I had the right suff to do the job and not one leak so far.
Superchargers online has it, cheapest price I have found also....it's the vortech unit... http://superchargersonline.com/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=SCOL-7T640-011
I got mine from Big Lots, $1.00 and it worked fine. Just have to watch so you don't hit the counterweights on the crank!
Oh, sorry about that... this was for a Paxton w/ a 3/8" NPT hole. It was just a long tapered punch. I had to kind of give it some angle towards the end so it would miss the crank.
I was lucky enough to have built my engine on a stand. Before I put the pan on, I drilled a 1/2" hole and inserted a bung. Welded in place, I screwed in a barbed fitting and it is 100% sealed and looks very clean (better without the digi cam+ flash). But if i HAD to punch it Id feel better using the correct tool from vortech. Cmon you bought the kit for 2-3 grand whats another 30 bucks!!
When punching the hole in the oil pan..Do you drain the oil first? Or drain it after you install the plug?
