Anyone know about Coil Overs?

[91LX_5L]

Well I decided not to chop my front springs. I want the front a bit lower then the rear. My spring are eibach pro and its dead even I dont like that look.

So Im looking at these:
http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=121 (its $209 per side)

UPR Coil Overs.

What do you guys think? Its either these or some H&R springs which will cost about $50 more the same (I can get UPR slightly discounted) and it wont change the rear stance anyways. Since you cant just buy front springs that is why im thinkin of the coil overs.

Opinions should I get these or just get some H&R Springs, I dont mind spending the diffrence between the H&R and the UPR Coil Overs.

thanks guys

 

[1slow95]

Im going with the UPR tubular k-member/coil over kit when I get the money. I've heard good things about both UPR and H&R coil overs, so I would probably go with the less expensive one.

 

[91LX_5L]

Yeah whats the benifit of coil overs vs some nice springs?

 

[1slow95]

Coil overs let you run a higher(stiffer) spring rate and keep a smooth ride. The ride hieght is adjustable, and I think they save a little wieght.

 

[DougNuts]

Don't forget, with coil-overs you HAVE to run a 4 bolt caster/camber plate. Griggs and Maximum Motorsports are the best. I also would get my coil-over kit from Maximum Motorsports if you can afford it.

Coil-overs have many advantages over a normal mustang setup in the front. One of them is that the spring acts on the end of the control arm instead of in the middle. If you can picture how the front A arm of a mustang works, you can see how the A arm bushings take a beating every time your car hits a bump due to the arm trying to "pivot" around the spring instead of the spring compressing. With a coil-over setup, the moment arm acts out on end (@ the ball joint) with the bushings acting as a pivot point instead of the bushings being a load bearing spring as they are with the traditional spring location.

This geometrically superior moment arm allows a person have a higher wheel rate with a lower actual spring rate. This gives you better handling (due to increased wheel rate) and better ride because the lower spring rate allows the wheel to react to road irregularities better. Plus, the control arm bushings take less of a beating, as I previously mentioned.

Hope this makes sense.

 

[1slow95]

Yeah, thats kinda what I trying to say. Nice write up DougNuts!

BUT, the 4 bolt c/c plates are not required, they are just highly recommended. My understanding is that the uneven force applied to the shock tower with the 3 bolt c/c plates could warp the shock tower.

 

[91LX_5L]

I have MM CC plates not to worry. I want to get all my suspension at once and install it all at once.

I got sitting in my room:

MM CC Plates
Tokico Illumina 5 Ways Shocks/Struts

Now Im thinking MM or Granatelli Front Coil Overs. Also im thinking LCAs...what do you guys think about LCAs, should I get UCAs at the same time?

I found a guy that can get me a great deal on the Granatelli Motorsports front coil overs.
http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/fordcoiloverkits.htm

What about those?

Thanks guys perfect description!

 

[DougNuts]

My advice on Mustang coil-overs/suspension parts in general is this:

If they don't have their parts on a car that is running in the American Iron series, I'm not sure I want them on my street car. Drag race parts are ok for cars that go 1/4 mile at a time. For the street, spend the extra money for parts that have real R&D put into them.

 

[91LX_5L]

Ok MM it is...good idea?

Im confuised on their site:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/coilover.asp

I have tokcio shocks/struts. So I would need COP-2 with the hypercoil springs right?

THANKS

 

[DougNuts]

Yes COP-2, but you probably want to call them in order to get the correct spring rate to match up with your rear springs.

 

[91LX_5L]

Ok I dont see anything on their site about spring rates. I dont drag my car but down the road I might once and a while (when turbo is done if I end up doing that).

 

[baglock1]

BUT, the 4 bolt c/c plates are not required, they are just highly recommended. My understanding is that the uneven force applied to the shock tower with the 3 bolt c/c plates could warp the shock tower.

Coilovers may not require the 4-bolt plates to put it all together, but they're certainly required. Keep your 3-bolt plates and run coilovers and you'll just be buying a 4-bolt setup a week later. They absolutely cannot take the loads safely.

 

[91LX_5L]

Anyways for a street car (that likes to have some fun) what spring rate do you guys reccomend? I dont bring my car to the strip. sometimes have a little race with others cars on the street but nothing majorly. in the future I want to turbo it then I might see the track once and a while.

 

[GRGT1994]

I thought I read somewhere that coil over is a much more efficient set up/geometry. BUT, that you need shocks/struts with a complete different level of bound/rebound.

Anyone know more on this?

 

[DougNuts]

Anyways for a street car (that likes to have some fun) what spring rate do you guys reccomend? I dont bring my car to the strip. sometimes have a little race with others cars on the street but nothing majorly. in the future I want to turbo it then I might see the track once and a while.

I want to say that 250 lb/in would be a good all round spring rate, but don't quote me on that.

Like I said, call MM and tell them what rear springs you have and they'll set you up with a front spring rate that will go well with your rear springs. They also make different lengths of springs, MM can help you get the right ones for your application.

Good choice by the way, I think you'll be much happier with MM parts than with other cheap kits. It may be more expensive, but worth it.

 

[baglock1]

I thought I read somewhere that coil over is a much more efficient set up/geometry. BUT, that you need shocks/struts with a complete different level of bound/rebound.

Anyone know more on this?

For higher spring rates, you want less rebound and higher compression. This is for two reasons. One, the higher forces applied to the shock valving require it to give a little more. Using high spring rates with high rebound valving will prematurely destroy the seals. And two, since the springs have more oscillation force, you want higher compression to safely and efficiently control it.

While coilovers can be used with the valving found in the stock dampers, they will prematurely wear out and not control the spring rate with the performance they need. Besides, the shocks are the most important part of the suspension. If you skimp there, you're just wasting all the money you put into the rest of it. If you go ahead a spend a few hundred bucks on a GOOD set of shocks and struts, you will be amazed that you never did it sooner. Trust me.

I want to say that 250 lb/in would be a good all round spring rate, but don't quote me on that.

I would consider 250# at the bottom of the range. For a street car with light to light fun in mind, you'll be happier with a car that leans a little more towards handling. I'd suggest around 300# in the front with 12" springs if they'll fit (depends on wheels/tires). If not, a 10" will be fine. But like Doug said, check with MM. They're the engineers, not the faceless screen names giving you advice now.

I'm currently running 375# (front) and 250# (rear). The ride isn't bad, but my passengers never make the mistake that they're riding in a comfortable street car. They sure do enjoy whipping around a 25 mph on-ramp at 60 though.

 

[91LX_5L]

thanks guys