Anyone want to talk me out of going carbed?

I didnt read though all the reply's but heres my opinion for what its worth....


From reading through your posts since I joined, it sounds like you have worked really hard to make the car exactly what you want, and to make it quality. I dont think Ive seen you take a shortcut yet so why take one now? You've been workin at this for a while, just keep that mentality, and wait until you can afford to go EFI.
 
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Efi is $$$. When something changes...$$$. Injectors, fuel pump, maf, burning chips or a tweecer. All big $$ items.

On a carb, when something changes, change the jets. $4. Turn the idle screws. Free. Add a power valve. $12. If the change is big enough, get a different carb $300.

When something doesnt go right on a carb, it's usually something simple that you can get your mind around and effect with your own 2 hands. When the EFI doesnt run right, you need to trick the computer into maybe doing what you want it to but maybe not. Either way, it usually involves throwing expensive parts at it.
 
Do the carb!! I am doing the v8 swap as well as the carb swap and the t5 swap on in one shot :) It has been really easy so far!! Here is my setup
Holley 750 Double pumper
Holley Red Pump (Doesnt require a regulator)
I went with a Proform HEI distributor that is all in one, or you can do the MSD setup, I already am spending over 7000 so i felt that could wait. This Dist is for an earlier mustang but they sell the right gear for the roller cam
Performer RPM Manifold
and 3/8 fuel line You will also have to get a new pick up tube for the external pump, the efi one wont work anything else just let me know... and FYI this I am building the hell out of this motor, 430+hp naturally aspirated :):) So the setup is a good one! Anything else just email me at [email protected]
 
rd said:
Having two carbed 5.0's, I would go or stay efi, especially if I wanted to drive it regularly. I want to switch over soon. My efi 2.3 notch has convinced me.

If I had started with an efi car, I would have changed all the normal stuff, such as injectors, intake, MAF, etc. And while it costs money, so does switching to and upgrading carbed stuff. After you get into upgraded stuff, both systems cost money. Bigger carb, totally new fuel lines, intake, etc.

With efi, fuel system upgrades are easier, just a bigger pump, and nitrous and blower installations are much easier. I like the abiltity to read the engine with a scanner, etc, and tune with an oxygen sensor. I would love to have a laptop tunable setup! It seems like it would be much easier to know what is going on and whether you are making improvements, etc, than with a carb. Its hard to beat the efi 5.0 stuff and even harder to beat the 4.6 stuff thats out there now.

Wrong :nono: ...not if you play it smart like I did. You want HP, then go for the carb for the best bang for buck. I took all my stuff and got over $1,000 for it on ebay. I then used that money to do the switch and still had money left over. Especially if you already hav EFI mods, you'll get even more.
 
andrewb_80 said:
Do the carb!! I am doing the v8 swap as well as the carb swap and the t5 swap on in one shot :) It has been really easy so far!! Here is my setup
Holley 750 Double pumper
Holley Red Pump (Doesnt require a regulator)
I went with a Proform HEI distributor that is all in one, or you can do the MSD setup, I already am spending over 7000 so i felt that could wait. This Dist is for an earlier mustang but they sell the right gear for the roller cam
Performer RPM Manifold
and 3/8 fuel line You will also have to get a new pick up tube for the external pump, the efi one wont work anything else just let me know... and FYI this I am building the hell out of this motor, 430+hp naturally aspirated :):) So the setup is a good one! Anything else just email me at [email protected]

Nice setup, but I would have went with the holley blue as it comes with the regulator. You want to be able to adjust your fuel pressure.
 
I keep reading all of these things talking about the EFI engine breaking down. If you're worried about reliability, EFI is the only way. A carburetor only needs one small thing to break or go wrong and the car won't run right.
EFI would have to have multiple sensors or a serious problem for it to not run right. You can have multiple sensors go bad and it will still work. This is the beauty of the failure mode and the adaptive strategy. Even if one of the sensors does quit working, the computer will tell you what's wrong most of the time. Other than that, it's just simple knowledge of the EFI system that's needed to fix things.
 
88GT17MA said:
From reading through your posts since I joined, it sounds like you have worked really hard to make the car exactly what you want, and to make it quality. I dont think Ive seen you take a shortcut yet so why take one now? You've been workin at this for a while, just keep that mentality, and wait until you can afford to go EFI.

I apreciate it, I do try to do things right. I am not considering a carb conversion as a shortcut, more practical solution to my application. I am strongly in favor of keeping EFI for a year round and/or daily driver.

Speed_Demon1965 said:
I keep reading all of these things talking about the EFI engine breaking down. If you're worried about reliability, EFI is the only way. A carburetor only needs one small thing to break or go wrong and the car won't run right.
EFI would have to have multiple sensors or a serious problem for it to not run right. You can have multiple sensors go bad and it will still work. This is the beauty of the failure mode and the adaptive strategy. Even if one of the sensors does quit working, the computer will tell you what's wrong most of the time. Other than that, it's just simple knowledge of the EFI system that's needed to fix things.

The thing is that carbs are very simple and pure mechanical, therefore not much can go wrong and if it does, not much to hunt down, easy to fix. That is what draws me to the carb.

The only thing that concerns me about carb is the window theroy, where a carb has windows in wich to work, while an EFI has a broad range.

I'm not sure what I am going to do, belive it or not I am inclined to stay with EFI. EFI is an advantage on the street, but carb still holds with the best of them at the strip. The gas milege, emmisions, drivability, and "turn key' factor is heavily in the favor of the EFI. Cost and simplisity are still in favor for the carb.

I am still definatly going to sell some of the parts I have. Just not quite sure exactly when.

Thank you everyone for your help, I feel like I have more direction on both ways to go. :cheers:
 
SQUEEZE&STROKE said:
I just recently converted to a carb on my car as well. Runs hard and pulls like a mofo. But, Like mentioned before...if you are just going to do it for money dont do it. I'll break down my cost for you...
Holley blue fuel pump-$120
Fuel pickup to use stock tank-$115
Aeromotive FPR-$150
All fuel lines and fittings with inline fuel filter-$350 (not steel braided, it would be about double if used steel braided)
750 HP carb-$450
Vic Jr manifold-$250
Wiring to make stock gauges work~$150
MSD Dizzy-$220
msd coil-$50
Correct throttle linkage/cable-$75-$100

As you can see it is probably cheaper to stay with fuel injection. I just wanted the simplicity of the carb so that was my choice. In all, my cost was about-$1900 give or take a few hundred bucks. I get a discount at my local parts shop so for my same setup it might cost you more. Hope this helps.

on my carb swap, i ended up saving some cash. i had a longblock, and still needed injectors, maf, intake manifold, and a tune which all in all is damn near $1000 (poor college guy). on my swap to carb, i sold off my old efi parts and it really helped offset the cost. plus, i think you over payed squeezed adn stroked, no offense. i shopped for deals and i got some good ones.

holley blue and regulator-$90
fuel pickup- 70
14 ft 6an bradied line-45 (used)
throttle linkage- 25 i think
85 gt dizzy- $50
used ebrock 750- $170 (roughly, traded parts for it)
msd coil-$40
my longblock had an intake on it when i bought that

my motor is a 306 with afr 165s and a 490/510 cam 1.6 rockers, etc

i still havent worked out the bugs to get it running yet, and it is my daily driver, but the temps in fla dont get too bad in winter, but anyway i plan on getting another car and keep this as my play toy.

i say research, research research and make your decision after that
 
Emissions shouldnt be a concern if its not driven alot or there is no test in your state.

Drivability?Thats an opinion.And actualy a vacuum adavnced distributor can really cut the "drivabilitly gap" between EFI and carb.

As for turn key,they will bother start right up if it set-up properly.Actualy,it seems like problems can just pop up out of no were with EFI,then you got to replace a sensor or something.With a carb,you tap it with a hammer or turn a screw.

As for gas milage,well not much to say,lol.Its not gonna be great for either.
 
90mustangGT said:
The only thing that concerns me about carb is the window theroy, where a carb has windows in wich to work, while an EFI has a broad range.

The carb can be tuned to work in a wide range of rpm's.But you do have to know what your doing.

Get a book on carburator tuning and find out just how much tuning you can really do,you would be amazed at how easy it is to get the car dialed in to what ever range you want it.
 
bluevenom867 said:
The carb can be tuned to work in a wide range of rpm's.But you do have to know what your doing.

Get a book on carburator tuning and find out just how much tuning you can really do,you would be amazed at how easy it is to get the car dialed in to what ever range you want it.

That is what I need to do to decide. What books do you suggest??? :nice:
 
I went through the same thing 3 years ago. I have made several changes since going carb, and no need for a chip reburn. I will be making more changes over the winter, and no need to try to get it tuned again. After a 1 min warm up, it is ready to do battle. I did a full return fuel system that ensures a cool supply of fuel is at the carb at all times.

I did not go carbed to save money, I did it to make it easy as I make changes over time.

Here is a shot of it.
fuelfitting2.jpg


Here is a sketch of it.
fueltank.jpg


Here is a very good article about setting up a good fuel system, and why.

http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp

My fuel system.
http://members.tccoa.com/392bird/birdwork5.htm
 

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Drunk5oh said:
on my swap to carb, i sold off my old efi parts and it really helped offset the cost. plus, i think you over payed squeezed adn stroked, no offense. i shopped for deals and i got some good ones.


None taken. I too sold my efi parts and saved some cash. I looked and shopped for parts but in my experience (fourth motor) buying used parts or stock parts and trying to make them work has just ended up costing me more money. I wanted to do this right and not have to worry about the reliability of used and or stock parts. I know I spent alot but I also bought alot of name brand parts, hopefully with a name built on reliability. Point in case of using used parts...I built a brand new 331, all the good stuff, high dollar stroker kit, machine work, etc. I bought a used cam to save some cash...guess what...the cam spun after it broke the dowel pin and bent all my valves. Using nitrous at the time, the bent open valve allowed the intake charge of nitrous/oxygen/fuel to ignite...blowing my manifold off as well as my hood. Now I buy new parts to hopefully save me from replacing another top end, valves, hood, windshield and roof.
 
SQUEEZE&STROKE said:
None taken. I too sold my efi parts and saved some cash. I looked and shopped for parts but in my experience (fourth motor) buying used parts or stock parts and trying to make them work has just ended up costing me more money. I wanted to do this right and not have to worry about the reliability of used and or stock parts. I know I spent alot but I also bought alot of name brand parts, hopefully with a name built on reliability. Point in case of using used parts...I built a brand new 331, all the good stuff, high dollar stroker kit, machine work, etc. I bought a used cam to save some cash...guess what...the cam spun after it broke the dowel pin and bent all my valves. Using nitrous at the time, the bent open valve allowed the intake charge of nitrous/oxygen/fuel to ignite...blowing my manifold off as well as my hood. Now I buy new parts to hopefully save me from replacing another top end, valves, hood, windshield and roof.


i too am always skeptical on used parts, and unfortunately money constraints forced me to do so. the only thing i am terribly concerned about is the used carb i got, but hopefully everything will go ok for me
 
I look at the combo as more of a race piece, not a street car or daily driver.

I love EFI, love tuning with a laptop BUT I think the carb could be a good choice for Jason.....
 
Drunk5oh said:
i too am always skeptical on used parts, and unfortunately money constraints forced me to do so. the only thing i am terribly concerned about is the used carb i got, but hopefully everything will go ok for me

One word of advice.....compressed air all of the passages on a used carb. You never know how well someone took care of their old carb. It could have been sitting for months and have black goo on the bottom. I got a gummy carb that looked ok from the outside but had like black tar inside all the passages (was this guy running diesel through the carb?). Meanwhile, I sold a carb that was spotless and gleaming inside. You never know with a used carb.

So soak that puppy in carb cleaner then blast out all the passages.