Are roller rockers a worth while upgrade?

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by NEEDA5.0, Dec 30, 2003.

  1. They are relatively cheap. So I was just wondering if new roller rockers alone is worth the upgrade on an otherwise stock car. If so how difficult are they to replace?

  2. not unless you were already in there for heads or a cam
  3. I wouldn't, for two reasons:

    1. You will gain essentially zero horsepower from adding them, even if they're 1.7's.

    2. There is a fair chance you'll want to replace them anyway with stud-mount rockers with a nice aftermarket head setup. Assuming that is your longterm plan :D.

    Basically, too much work for too little gain. IMHO.

  4. What about with my mods...

    STock heads, stock cam and all aftermarket stuff from Intake-forward, and headers-backwards
  5. The MM&FF articles about cylnder head tests showed that our stock heads didn't flow any differently from .45 lift to .50 lift. So roller rockers wouldn't do too much.
  6. I would think with some kind of forced induction, that the extra lift MAY do something, Also, what about just the less friction with the rollers?

  7. I would wait until you changed heads. The stock ones will have to come off at that point.
  8. I wouldve waited anyway...I was just curious if they make a difference or not.


  9. Wow that’s disappointing, here I was going to tell him to go for it as he would gain some lift and ease the valve train with the rollers. But if you don’t see any real gains it definitely not worth it. :notnice:
  10. There is a gain in horsepower and torque but it is very minor.. 5-10 rwhp at the most.. But you have to remember that if your using stock valve springs you may experience valve float with larger rockers and lose power.

    In the book "5.0L Ford dyno tets" dynoed two 5.0's with just the swap of rockers. they used 1.7 rockers.

    The first car gained 10 rwhp and about 12 rwtq. The car was bassically styock with flowmaster mufflers and a 80mm MAF.

    The Second car lost 8 rwhp over 5300 due to valve float.. This car had a few more mods and more miles, they reffered to it as "tired".(90k miles)

    I can scan the article if anyone is interested.

    RC - i wouldnt bother with rockers on your car until you get new heads and cam.. You will most likely go with a "blower cam" im guessing and most use 1.6 rockers..
  11. I would definitely decide on what cam I was going to go with before choosing a rocker. If you get a custom cam, it will undoubtedly be setup for 1.6. And 1.6 is better :nice: :D.

  12. I talked about this with Roger and Joe this past week. We kinda all agreed that with the way my car is running (in a good way), That I may go with some TFS TW heads next year and some rockers, but stick with the stock cam. This would make the job a little easier for us to do in my garage. Im in the mid-high 300's now, and I would be happy getting to just over 400 in my AODE setup. Im sure I would need to go with 42 # inj also.

    Therefore, im looking at about $1500 for the heads, inj, and rockers, then I could get some $$ back on the 36's.. Im just asking now since the thread is up.

    Thanks yellow.

  13. RC - i really dont see any good reason to stick with the stock cam unless you dont have the money to get a new one.. Once the heads are off, its really only another 20 mins worth of work to get the cam out. I yanked mine about 2 weeks ago, it was my first time, very simple.. I would really consider a blower cam if you do go with new heads.. Maybe get the exhaust ports on the TFS heads ported a bit to get the flow up. So many options, just takes $$$

  14. Cams are cheap compared to heads. It was my understanding that you need to take off the fan, balancer, crank/belts, and timing cover. That doesnt sound like another 20minutes to me.

    I realize you will get the MOST from the heads with a cam, but I would also think you still get great power with the heads added and some rockers...Should be good for another 30-40 at least with the blower.

  15. Your gonna have to take the belts off anyways when u remove the heads.. Unbolting the water pump and timing cover only takes a few minutes.. The radiator only has a couple bolts and the whole things comes out with the fan attached.. Balance comes off easily if you have a puller. I just cant imagine leaving all that "could be" power out on the table over another hour-hour and half total worth of work :shrug:, but thats just me.
  16. I'd plan on another 1 to 2 hours for the cam. The radiator comes out pretty easy, as does the condenser, but it adds up. The timing cover can be a great big pain in the butt to get off, especially if it's never been off since the factory.

    I also would not do the cam without a degree kit. A lot of people just line up the dots, but that's not very accurate, and if you're gonna do it, then do it right. And degreeing the cam will add another hour, probably.


    As far as the timing cover..Just had that gasket replaced and a new water pump installed, allong with a new timing chain and gear..that stuff is all good to go.

    I have a while yet, so I have time to sort it out.!
  18. NeedA,

    Glad you got a response to your question! I've been trying to find an answer to the same question for my setup? The rr's plus labor for install is not that cheap IMHO but I'll spring for it if someone can answer the same question for my setup?

    Will I see any HP gains?