At what point do you need to consider a good tune?
- Thread starter NRM90GT
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Simple answer would be whenever you begin to experience driveability problems or whenever you want to get more power out of your present setup.
Some would say that after any change to intake or exhaust (whether it be CAI, new MAF, turbos, supercharger, nitrous, throttle body, intake, heads...headers, x/h pipe, mufflers) you should get your ride tuned/tune it yourself.
I waited until I had done some decent work and wanted to get some more power...plus I noticed some fuel issues at high RPM's when at the track...that is when I bought my PMS.
I am sure someone will have a more precise answer for you, but I am guessing it is a matter of personal opinion for the most part...and how fat your wallet is since none of the tuners or a chip burning dyno session are cheap.
Some would say that after any change to intake or exhaust (whether it be CAI, new MAF, turbos, supercharger, nitrous, throttle body, intake, heads...headers, x/h pipe, mufflers) you should get your ride tuned/tune it yourself.
I waited until I had done some decent work and wanted to get some more power...plus I noticed some fuel issues at high RPM's when at the track...that is when I bought my PMS.
I am sure someone will have a more precise answer for you, but I am guessing it is a matter of personal opinion for the most part...and how fat your wallet is since none of the tuners or a chip burning dyno session are cheap.
I would suggest it when running more than a .060 bore displacement increase, or an aftermarket (70mm or bigger) MAF.
Both of these things can cause some issues.
However, it may be that the adaptive ability of the EEC will be able to compensate for these changes, so who knows?
I am not sure how to decide when a tuner is required, but that is my take on it.
jason
Both of these things can cause some issues.
However, it may be that the adaptive ability of the EEC will be able to compensate for these changes, so who knows?
I am not sure how to decide when a tuner is required, but that is my take on it.
jason
Alot of it depends on if you FEEL you need one. criticman brought up a good point... when you experience any driveability issues, etc etc.
my opinion: you should definately have one with a power adder, or if you plan on making some good power (350+) and not having it dyno tuned. for 90% of people with a HCI setup, a dyno tune would be best. but for the other 10% that must always do it theirself, or maybe possibly changing the setup later, a personal tuner is the way to go.
my opinion: you should definately have one with a power adder, or if you plan on making some good power (350+) and not having it dyno tuned. for 90% of people with a HCI setup, a dyno tune would be best. but for the other 10% that must always do it theirself, or maybe possibly changing the setup later, a personal tuner is the way to go.
Yeah. I agree. If you are doing HCI and you don't plan on anything else (or at least not for a good while), a dyno tune is your best bet.
On the other hand, I knew I would be doing a new intake/TB, was already having top end issues, and also knew I would be going with some sort of boost maker, so I decided a handheld tuner was ideal for my situation.
On the other hand, I knew I would be doing a new intake/TB, was already having top end issues, and also knew I would be going with some sort of boost maker, so I decided a handheld tuner was ideal for my situation.
LEE93COBRA
New Member
I am curious to know what you guys are referring to a "dyno tune" that doesn't include some type of EEC tuner/chip. You are not tuning anything unless you make changes in a chip.
My opinion is do it with a H/C/I and when running a aftermarket MAF. I would also do it when upgrading injectors since you sometimes see driviability issues.
Real tuning involves MAF transfer curve changes, timing table adjustments, and fuel table changes to name a few.
The MAF can be a big issue when running aftermarket MAFS. Trust me.
If this is an area you want to learn ( DIY EEc tuning) I suggest go ahead and get what you plan to use and start learning while your car is still mostly stock. There is a ton of info to learn.
You can go to my forums and look around in the EEC room to see some of the topics we discuss. While most of my members that post in there are Tweecer users, it is not just applicable to that type of EEC editor
My opinion is do it with a H/C/I and when running a aftermarket MAF. I would also do it when upgrading injectors since you sometimes see driviability issues.
Real tuning involves MAF transfer curve changes, timing table adjustments, and fuel table changes to name a few.
The MAF can be a big issue when running aftermarket MAFS. Trust me.
If this is an area you want to learn ( DIY EEc tuning) I suggest go ahead and get what you plan to use and start learning while your car is still mostly stock. There is a ton of info to learn.
You can go to my forums and look around in the EEC room to see some of the topics we discuss. While most of my members that post in there are Tweecer users, it is not just applicable to that type of EEC editor
I think it is assumed that a dyno tune involves burning a custom chip. You are right to point that out for clarification though.LEE93COBRA said:
To add to my previous response...
I wish I had picked up a tuner much sooner. When I installed the 351w should have been the latest I started doing my own tunes.
I never had any drivability issues with just a cobra intake, maf, and 24s on the stock A9L though.
LEE93COBRA
New Member
vristang said:
I just wanted to make sure. Some of the other posts made it sound like a dyno tune was something other than a EEC modification.
LEE93COBRA
New Member
On my car I removed timing on the WOT tables and added a little fuel at different rpm spots in the WOT fuel table. The fuel changes were made based off what the w/b on the dyno showed
LEE93COBRA
New Member
VG30DE
Founding Member
I dont have a chip, tuner, btm, or anything. Drives like stock, better on gas than stock, runs excellent, no surges or flat spots, reliable as hell. It all depends on how lucky you are, whether or not you need a tune/tuner. Sure, I'd have a cleaner looking A/F curve with a tune but you know what, it drives fine and runs 10s and drives home. I would say I dont need a tune. If it popped, bucked and spuddered home with a huge flat spot in midrange rpm's (just examples of when you need a "tune"), than I would do something about it. Thats really the basis of whether or not you need to change the tune.
QDRHRSE
New Member
I think a lot of people have the wrong idea about custom tunes. Most of you guys have addressed the best reason- drivability. Alot of people think they are going to pick up 30-40hp with a tune and if a car is already running properly that's not going to happen. A really hard running car could actually lose hp on the dyno for the sake of a flatter tq curve and better drivability.
As far as performance goes, with the right gauges you should be able tune for ET @ the racetrack better than on the dyno. With a vacuum/boost gauge, wideband, and fp gauges you can do alot. Fox bodies are really simple and the motors are very forgiving.
As far as performance goes, with the right gauges you should be able tune for ET @ the racetrack better than on the dyno. With a vacuum/boost gauge, wideband, and fp gauges you can do alot. Fox bodies are really simple and the motors are very forgiving.
guess its just me but i come from the school of a car doesnt need to be modded at all to get tuned...ive seen bone stock cars pick up power on the rollers from just tuning, ive seen bone stock cars act and drive better just from tuning...i think some logging/tuning software should be one of the first buys
just me
just me
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