Attn everyone with Bilstein shocks

Chronos[AsG]

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Dec 20, 2003
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I am currently in the process of replacing all my shocks/struts with brand new Bilsteins. I am working on the rear shocks and I've hit a little snag.

I have the old shock off and I'm attempting to install the new Bilstein shock. I am having some trouble with the nut that comes with it that you use to bolt the shock to the trunk. I can get the nut a little ways on by hand and then I have to start using a wrench. The problem is I have already messed up one shock trying to install it. The shocks have a hex hole in the top of the shaft that you put a hex key into during the install. The hex key keeps the piston of the shock from turning while you tighten the bolt. The first shock I had so much difficulty getting the nut on I accidenlty stripped out the hex hole. I am not having much better luck with the second shock though I have been extremely careful not to put any significant amount of pressure on the hex key. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? Why am I having so much trouble getting this installed? Thanks in advance.

Justin
 
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Not sure Justin, but it sounds like you might have (just slightly) the wrong size hex key. The metric sizes come in a BUNCH of sizes, some as little as 1/2mm difference in size. So it can fit in and feel just a little loose, but be the wrong size. Only thing I can think of. Can you take a Dremel and grind a slot in the top of the shaft, and hold it with a flat blade while you're trying to turn it?
 
I'm betting you've already done it but curiosity have you checked to make sure the threads in nuts and the threads on the shock shaft are both metric or standard and not one metric thread and one standard thread. That’s what it’s sounding like to me.
All I'm saying is I've seen people behind a parts counter open 2 or 3 different boxes and then can't remember which package went to which box .
I installed my Bilsteins over 4 yrs ago and had no problem at all with the installation and that's the only reason I asked if you had checked to make sure both items are the same thread pattern.
 
Is it a lock nut? Most of the Bilstein's I've installed configured that way had a locking nut for the stud - it's completely round on one side, but the other side is slightly distorted or 'ovaled' so that the threads lock tightly onto the stud - no way it will come loose by itself. It should start easily, but then tighten up after 2 or 3 turns, and require a wrench and good bit of torque to tighten the rest of the way. If that's what they are, and you've stripped out the allen head in the top of the stud - you're gonna have your hands full getting that nut on.