ATTN: Polishers - got a quick question

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Black331Stang, Dec 18, 2003.

  1. hey i started to try out polishing and im doing a TB spacer to start with. I really wanted to start last night but only had kinda low grit but i figured it shouldnt matter (60.5). so anyway, this Big Busted Krap (BBK) TB spacer has a pretty crappy surface, pits, dips, slants, bubbles, etc. hve been sanding for a while with teh 60 grit and the pits are still there. Do i have to keep going till the pits are out? they arent huge but noticeable. i attached a pic of it.
    Also, lets say im working on only 1 side of the TB spacer (flat, with no corners). How long should it take to sand with one grade of paper? caus ei been sanding like one side for an hour and im still on teh same grit. thanks for any help

    hmm i cant post a pic, its telling me i dont have access or permission???? and the bar at teh top is red that says size of forums posts..i hope i dont gotta go back and delete pics that i posted.
     
  2. yeha i had to delete old posts. here:
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Those pits will show once polished... If you want it to look smooth you need to keep going until the pits are gone then you can step up to a finer grit..
     
  4. ahh k thanks for the help.
     

  5. Here is a site I am working on for ALMOST STOCK. Check out the polishing section, there is very good information in there.

    Tim

    Polishing 101
     
  6. you would have a much easier time if you had something powered like a dremel to sand those out, they're pretty deep. Right now i'm working on performance mods before i get too far into polishing everything up, but i did my breather lid and it turned out pretty nice.
     
  7. thanks nice site...did u make the other site ploshing 101? it has like green writing..thats what i looked at. my pits are like the ones on almost stocks mass air meter but he still had pits even after moving to the next grit...maybe they will come out donwn the line..o yeah one thing i noticed and i know its not done but theres no scroll bar on teh site.
     
  8. I did not make the other polishing site. ALMOST STOCK did the write up for it though. I am currently re-writing the site so normal screen resolutions can see it all. Long story short, I HATE scroll bars and wrote it as 1280X1024 to get around it. I should be corrected sometime this year. Thanks,

    Tim
     
  9. Get yourself a dremel or something and some 80grit sanding rolls. They will dent and scar the piece but that is easily taken out, easier than it would be to sand those pits out by hand. Try to minimize those as much as possible although there are some parts (like timing covers) where you just cannot get them completely out or completely smooth, its just in the way the part was cast, so dont spend all year workin on that one part.
     
  10. You'll need a power tool, bar none. A dremel is OK, just use an 80 grit flap disc, not the tiny little mandrels.

    A die grinder is a much better choice, I've had much better results with one, rather than a dremel.

    http://digitallights.com/somethingwicked/past_projects.html

    I also recommend a Black & Decker Mouse. Good for the medium sanding step, and if you use a low-enough grit, it does a really nice job on levelling parts.
     
  11. Well get yourself a palm sander for the flat surfaces and be careful w/ a dremel w/ the small attachments can very easily leave dips in the metal esp on aflat surface.

    Starting w/ a 60 grit is creating tons of sanding for you on the next steps. Polishing is very labor involved. There is a huge learning curve good thing you started on something small. And Almost Stock is a very knowledgable guy Id personally follow his site.


    Youll never remove all the pits Its almost impossible on most pieces. Youl be surprised for the most part they will disappear. To a degree anyway. Hit me up on AIM if you need anymore help.
     
  12. I use a DA sander for most of my work. It's fast... almost too fast. You have to be carefull on smaller pieces (tensioners... damn arrow didn't see what hit it). Just be glad you didn't start with an upper intake. Once you get that powder coating off the whole thing is pitted like that.
    I use a diegrinder for all the tight corners with my various Eastwood buffs.
     
  13. so basically im on track i hust gotta keep friggin sanding..lol
     
  14. you need power tools, thats about half as bad as an explorer upper intake is, they have horrible casting, and I did one side of it with just hand sanding, and it took about 60 hours of sanding, no ****.
     
  15. I believe it. Even with a da sander with 80 grit it takes a long time to get the pits out of an intake. I wouldn't even try it by hand.
     
  16. I polished my Explorer intake by hand, all I can say is, NEVER AGAIN!!!! :p

    Once you start you have to finish.
     
  17. I just got my intake back from having it polished today. I sand blasted it to remove the powder coat before taking it to have it done. The got about 98% of the pits out of it. There were a few too deep to remove. Still looks like chrome in person.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Use a palm sander or electric for that, Dremels suck balls and will only leave dips. They REALLY suck for the actual polishing, too, don't even waste your time.
     
  19. Orbital sanders leave swirl marks that can be hard to get out FYI.....
     
  20. where did u send the piece to get it polished? and how much did it cost?