Aunt Passed And Left Me Her Mustang... What To Do

[CarMichael Angelo]

And again,....no o.p, despite not having his ass bitten off by yours truly.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

And again,....no o.p, despite not having his ass bitten off by yours truly.

I think you scared him off with your relative kindness Mike. I wish you would stop being that way.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I wish you all would make up your mind.

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

You need to decide what you want the car to do.

Do you want a quicker dd?

Maybe go really fast in a straight line?

Handle for curves?

Nothing else, get some new shocks on it, new bushings, new brake pads/rotors, complete engine tune up and a first mod of sub-frame connectors. You'll want those things just to drive it a bit while you decide what you ultimately want to do.

Really figure out where you want the car to be when you are done with any modifications. You don't want to blow a lot of cash just to figure out you want to go in a different way.

The SFC's are really needed no matter which direction you go, it's not expensive and if you can weld, it's dirt cheap. They will make your car handle so much better.

@jrichker has a really good read about what are good choices depending on where you want to go with your new mustang.

Good luck and start a thread on your build with pictures, we LOVE pictures.

Thank you so much for responding. Basically indont want to take it too the track, I just want to open her up on the street every now and then and maybe make a few people wish they hadn't tried in the process . Straight line speed is mostly what I'm after.

Thanks again!

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

Meh,....This is what you really need to do.

Understand that an SN 95 bodystyle is not a very popular one in mustang circles. A convertible version makes it even less so.
I understand that there is sentimental value here though.

A convertible anything is a tougher platform to modify because of the lack of integrity from the missing roof. That roof mechanism is heavy, which adds weight to the car when compared to the hardtop version.

Two strikes.

However. SN 95 cars have a lot going for them as a starting point when compared to a fox mustang:
They have better, 5 lug brakes standard, and can easily be upgraded to the much larger Cobra versions as a direct bolt on.
They have a bigger wheelwells all around, and can accommodate much larger rubber.
The rear end is plenty stout, and more than capable of handling a fair amount of power. The axles can be replaced and upgraded to a larger size to accommodate even bigger power as an off the shelf modification (if they aren't already that way to begin with).

The engine is a capable platform, and can easily be modified to accommodate 500 HP. Power levels beyond that will cause block failure.

You didn't say whether or not it's a 5 speed or Auto. If it's a 5 speed, the transmission is just waiting for you to improve the engine power so it can break. (Or conversely, you can go out right now, and break it before you add power,...the 5 speed transmission is a weak link.) But like everything else on a 7th gen Mustang,......it's upgrade-able.

Your question is still too vague, and you are asking for a bazillion different opinions (which you'll get a different one everytime)
Along those lines,...here's mine:

I'd silently thank my Aunt for the car. I'd tell her that I really appreciate the springboard.

I'd sell it. and take my 4000.00 (if it's a really nice, low miles version) and add that to my 10k disposable.

I'd buy an already completed project from the sea of already completed projects, which are typically sold at a ratio of .50 to the dollar, where my 14k will net me the equivalent of a 25-30k investment in the current car.

I'd nod my head, and silently thank my Aunt again.

I appreciate the knowledge you've shared, thank you very much! Yes it is a five speed, but I can't sell it, it means a lot too me, she was my favorite aunt and this thing was her baby. It only has 90k miles, paint is perfect interior is perfect and new top. I guess my question was pretty vague, what I'm really looking for is advice in terms of engine mods, tansmission mods to basically try and make it into the low 12's if possible on that budget. What are the best parts too buy and from which company etc... any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

IMO I feel obligated to tell you SN95s (at least in my area) do not hold very good value or reflect what is put into them. Just know that going into it.

However, this sounds like this is a keeper.

SFCs are a must, gears 3:55/3:73, and upgrading the ignition/fuel components

The motor you can look at two different ways. You can dump money into HCI and give you room to grow, or you can look into a power adder like Vortech or On3 for best bang you buck.

Either way, be very methodical on how to spend your money, because 10K can get eaten up real quick.

I was looking at Vortech, I've read that this year in particular has a bad transmission and a lot of electronic issues (windows, lights, ignition), any ideas on brands I could trust?

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

Far too many people put a dab of this and a dollop of that, and then wonder why the car doesn't run worth beans. Then they think off the shelf computer chips will fix their mismatched parts problem. It won't

You have to have a plan for what kind of performance you want: Hot street. Street/Strip, Pure strip, Autocross or Road course. Each one requires a different strategy and a different set of components.. Mismatch the components and you’ll have a car that falls flat on its face when you demand performance.

Everyone thinks HP! HP! HP! and thinks that peak HP is what they need. Peak HP is great for a drag strip car when it has the proper gears and tires to get the car up into the high RPM range where it develops that high peak HP near the finish line. On a street car, that strategy will have Honda Accords outrunning you, because you will never get the engine RPMs high enough without running over everything in your path.

Here’ the strategy: Always remember that there are some tradeoffs in any engine combination. Most of us don’t have enough money to “have it all” as if it was possible by some masterful combination of parts and tuning.

The following recommendations are for 5 Speed Manual transmission cars without NO2 or pressurized induction, stock short block.
1.) Hot street: Broad flat torque curve, high velocity airflow in the intake and heads for best throttle response. Gears suitable for reasonable gas mileage and long road trips without excessive engine RPMs. Stand on the gas pedal from a rolling start to squeeze into that gap in traffic in front of you, and it jumps quick and hard to get you there. Max RPM’s are 5200-5500 RPM for best power. Lopey cams may sound cool, but run poorly in a low RPM street environment.
Use stock cam, stock, GT40 or mildly ported stock heads, Cobra or Explorer/GT40 intake, advanced timing, stock 19 lb injectors, stock fuel pump. Use some good 1.6 or 1.7 ratio roller rockers for extra punch. Use a King Cobra clutch, with stock iron or steel billet flywheel. MAF cars can use a 65 MM TB from the Explorer intake manifold and a 70MM MAF from a 94-95 Mustang. Drive train: 3:55 gears with soft tread compound tires. Use some Ford Racing unequal length headers, stock 2 1/4” cat pipe and some mufflers that don’t drone or get too much attention from the law enforcement or neighbors. The stock computer will handle all this with no problems and doesn’t need any help in 90% of the cases. No skinny or grossly undersize tires for the front: remember you still have to stop quickly in traffic. Make sure all the rubber bushings in the front and rear suspensions are in first class shape. Leave the emissions equipment intact and working. Removing or disabling it won’t get you any more HP or performance. Do not convert to carb or remove A/C: either one will reduce the resale value. Carb conversions cannot be titled for street use or get tags in some places. They definitely won’t pass smog inspections.

Street/strip: A little more slope to the torque curve with a gently sloping peak. Use slightly larger port volumes on intake and heads for more peak HP. Uses 3.55 or 3.73 gears to get the RPM’s up into a higher range quicker. Be prepared to sacrifice some low RPM throttle response in exchange for high RPM power. This by necessity will be a Mass Air or Mass Air conversion on 86-88 5.0 Mustangs, since stock speed density will not run well with the changes in engine airflow. Don’t get too crazy on any one engine part since you still have to drive the car on the street, and a mismatch can make street driving miserable.
Use stock or mild aftermarket cam, Ported GT 40, or 165-180 CC port volume aftermarket aluminum heads. Use a Trick Flow, Edelbrock Performer or equal intake manifold. Take a 73 MM aftermarket MAF calibrated for 24 lb injectors, and 24 lb injectors, 155 LPH fuel pump, Kirban adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Be prepared to shell out some $$$ for a custom burned chip using data gathered from a dyno run. Mass market chips will not get the job done. Use some Ford Racing unequal length headers, aftermarket 2 1/2” cat pipe and some mufflers that don’t drone or get too much attention from the law enforcement or neighbors. Drivetrain: expect the stock T5 to fail, so save your money for a super duty 5 speed trans. Tremec 3550, TKO 500 & TKO 600 are the best choices. Different gears in a stock T5 case work for some, but there is only so much power you can pass through a T5 in race mode before it breaks, even with stronger gears. Next are the Chassis mods: full length subframe connectors, different springs, different shocks, aftermarket lower and upper control arms with rubber or urethane bushings. Buy all the parts from someplace like Maximum Motorsports, Griggs or Steeda as a kit so that you know that all the parts fit and don’t argue with each other. Carry spare tires and wheels for the drag strip: skinnys for the front and drag radials for the rear. No skinnys for street driving! Over 85% of the breaking power is generated by the front tires, so skinnys won’t do the job in a panic stop situation. Disconnect the front anti-roll bar at the strip; reconnect it before you drive home. Leave the emissions equipment intact and working. Removing or disabling it won’t get you any more HP or performance. Do not convert to carb or remove A/C: either one will reduce the resale value. Carb conversions cannot be titled for street use or get tags in some places. They definitely won’t pass smog inspections.

Strip only: High RPM, High flow heads (185-215 CC port volume), wild cam, high flow intake manifold, 70 MM or larger TB, 80 MM or lager MAF, strip everything out of the car that doesn’t make it go faster. Carbs are OK if that’s what you want, but remember that as the temp/humidity/ barometric pressure/altitude changes, you have to re-jet and readjust the carb. EFI eliminates most of that with its built in compensation or you can tune of the fly with a high end Motes or Tweecer system combined with a wide band air/fuel ratio meter. Use custom headers, dumps and minimal mufflers. How fast you can go on 5 liters is a function of the skill level of the driver/mechanic and the size of your wallet.

TRAILER the car to the race track since it won’t be legal to drive it on the street. Drag slicks in the rear, skinnys up front, use 3.73 or bigger gears (4.xx) in the rear axle. Since you won’t be driving on long trips, the big gears with work with the high RPM power curve to get the best results. Drivetrain: TKO 500 & TKO 600 are the best choices. Different gears in a stock T5 case work for some, but there is only so much power you can pass through a T5 in race mode before it breaks, even with stronger gears. Next are the Chassis mods: full length subframe connectors, different springs, different shocks, aftermarket lower and upper control arms with rubber or urethane bushings. Buy all the parts from someplace like Maximum Motorsports, Griggs or Steeda as a kit so that you know that all the parts fit and don’t argue with each other. Remove the front sway bar, put an airbag in the rear spring of the side that spins the tire the most. Plan on a roll cage if you are truly serious about going fast: most strips will require it once you get to a certain ET range.

Autocross is a combination of Hot street engine and street strip chassis prep. The engine must accelerate quickly from low RPM and needs a broad, flat torque curve. Next are the Chassis mods: full length subframe connectors, different springs, different shocks, aftermarket lower and upper control arms with rubber or urethane bushings. Buy all the parts from someplace like Maximum Motorsports, Griggs or Steeda as a kit so that you know that all the parts fit and don’t argue with each other. Most of the time you’ll never hit third gear, so some 3.73 or bigger gears (4.xx) may help a lot. You’ll have to spend some more money on brakes since it kills brakes quickly. Rear disks, larger rotors up front, stainless steel brake lines, different brake pads. A 87-88 T Bird Turbo Coupe or SN 95 rear axle will be your best bet. Autocross will severely strain 1st & 2nd gears, so your T5 may take a premature dump. Save your money for a super duty 5 speed trans. Tremec 3550, TKO 500 & TKO 600 are the best choices.

All out road race is the most difficult of all: an engine that will run at high rpm hour after hour and never fail, yet pull hard out of the hairpin turns that will require a lot of torque at lower RPMs. In my opinion, guys that can successfully build a winning road race engine are the cream of the crop. Top this off with a chassis built for strip only duty, but with changes to the settings of springs, tires, roll bars brakes and shocks. It’s a whole other world of racing.
You’ll have to spend lots more money on brakes since it kills brakes quickly. Rear disks, larger rotors up front, stainless steel brake lines, different brake pads. Air ducting to cool the brake rotors will be a must. The brake rotors of cars on a high speed road course glow red after several hard laps of racing. Drivetrain: TKO 500 & TKO 600, and T56 close ratio are the best transmission choices.

DUDE! AMAZINGLY INSIGHTFUL! Thank you so much for taking the time to write all of that, wow! Very good advice. I'm really looking too just try and make her a fun quick cruiser that makes some noise and runs pretty good on the highway. The car isn't particularly fast as is, but i was hoping with my budget I could get her into the low 12's high 11's. You think that's possible? If so how would you go about it?

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

A

Start from the ground up. Research on exactly what you want out of the car. If it's going to be a quick nice day driver,a corner carver,drag strip terror,etc. Each has a specific "need" of different approaches. You can still do a little of it all if you go about it correctly.

With it being a convertible, you really need to stiffen the chassis as much as possible no matter what. Frame connectors are a must. You also can look into a strut tower brace,torque box reinforcements,etc. I would then grab some suspension(springs,struts,controll arms,bushings,etc). A good set of wheels and tires go a long way in desired performance and aesthetic quality of the car.

By the time you've done all that, you probably have eaten up 1/3-1/2 of your budget. I would then look into increasing power/performance. The cheapest bang for the buck is a rear gear swap. 3.73's are the best all around ratio but some prefer 3.55 and if an automatic trans is used some go with 4.10's(not great for highway/interstate driving but acceleration is greatly improved). The stock transmissions are an issue for performance/durability. If it's a manual, you're going to need to upgrade to a Tremec or equivalent, if you plan on some spirited driving. Stock automatic will need a new torque converter,valve body,etc for better acceleration.

Actual horsepower improvements can be attacked multiple ways. You can add heads,intake,cam,exhaust,etc etc and/or a supercharger/turbo. You will also need to upgrade fuel system and address the ecu. Basically your entire budget(or double that lol)can be spent in just this area. It really depends on what you actually plan on doing.

Took me a darn hour and 1/2 to write this-Stangnet at work ftw-

great advice, you nailed it with just wanting a nice day cruiser that can eat up some pavement pretty quickly

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

Damn, and I wasted 1 1/2 hours

No, sorry had a busy week at work and a newborn so didn't get online that much.

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

What's the current condition of the car?


Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

It was her baby, 5-speed, new top interior is perfect exterior perfect, really nice car all around.

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

My tongue hurts, I bit it so hard.

Lol I've been doing some reading and many people do not like this model Mustang. I have to keep it tho, it is the nicest thing anyone has ever given me and it will always remind me of her.

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

I think you scared him off with your relative kindness Mike. I wish you would stop being that way.

Haha no, I'm here, just a busy few days, and I have an infant so need to squeeze time in where I can.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Thank you so much for responding. Basically indont want to take it too the track, I just want to open her up on the street every now and then and maybe make a few people wish they hadn't tried in the process . Straight line speed is mostly what I'm after.

Thanks again!

Very cool, you'll find lots of straight line guys here.

Like others have mentioned, a convertible body has lots of flex in it.

Get a set of subframe connectors (SFCs). It's always best to weld them on, there are bolt on ones out there, but they don't provide the rigidity of the weld on ones.

You can go as far as putting a roll cage in it if you really want the ultimate in chassis stiffening. They are a PITA to live with though.

There are several things to improve how the car launches out there, rear upper and lower control arms (UCAs and LCAs) really make a difference. Lowering springs for the front and rear, or even coil overs front and back.

Replacing the stock engine cradle with an aftermarket k-member helps to stiffen the front end. Front control arms as well.

The best sight to go to is Maximum Motorsports to look at what they offer. They are about the priciest, but they have outstanding products. UPR, Team Z and a number of others have quality chassis items too at a better price.

The engine is a story unto itself on what you can do. Keep in mind, the week point in our 5.0s is the stock block, when you get close to the 450-500hp range, are going to split and give you a catastrophic failure. So, hop up your stock engine a bit, but don't blow all your money on it while keeping a stock block.

Replacing the block with a stouter version, like what Dart or Ford Racing has to offer, will burn up you $10k budget in a blink of your eye. Though the sky gets to be the limit on horsepower. Keep in mind, when you go much past 600hp on a street car, you will lose pretty much any ability to drive on even a moderately slick road.

But with your budget, I wouldn't try to go monster power just yet. Keeping most things stock on it and adding a small forced induction system (turbo or supercharger) would be the easiest route. If you would be happy with keeping your engine under the 450hp barrier and want to be naturally aspirated, there are some high quality Head, cam and intake (HCI) swaps you can do. To me, the top manufacturer of heads would be AFR. Though Trick Flow offers a complete HCI swap that is outstanding. AFR doesn't offer a complete kit, just some of the best breathing heads out there. Edelbrock offers really nice HCI kits as well.

All told, an HCI swap will run you around $3500-$4000 with all the little stuff you will need to do to make the engine run smoothly. About the same cost as a turbo set up. The turbo will give you more power, but can be finicky little btches.

What kind of skills do you have in working on the car? Can you weld? Do you have a decent tool set?

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Keep in mind with building up the engine, bunches of other little things will need to be improved. The radiator and going with an electric fan would be wise. More HP, more heat.

A better alternator will be wanted as well.

Etc....etc....etc....

Stiffen the chassis first, then dive into the engine.

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

Very cool, you'll find lots of straight line guys here.

Like others have mentioned, a convertible body has lots of flex in it.

Get a set of subframe connectors (SFCs). It's always best to weld them on, there are bolt on ones out there, but they don't provide the rigidity of the weld on ones.

You can go as far as putting a roll cage in it if you really want the ultimate in chassis stiffening. They are a PITA to live with though.

There are several things to improve how the car launches out there, rear upper and lower control arms (UCAs and LCAs) really make a difference. Lowering springs for the front and rear, or even coil overs front and back.

Replacing the stock engine cradle with an aftermarket k-member helps to stiffen the front end. Front control arms as well.

The best sight to go to is Maximum Motorsports to look at what they offer. They are about the priciest, but they have outstanding products. UPR, Team Z and a number of others have quality chassis items too at a better price.

The engine is a story unto itself on what you can do. Keep in mind, the week point in our 5.0s is the stock block, when you get close to the 450-500hp range, are going to split and give you a catastrophic failure. So, hop up your stock engine a bit, but don't blow all your money on it while keeping a stock block.

Replacing the block with a stouter version, like what Dart or Ford Racing has to offer, will burn up you $10k budget in a blink of your eye. Though the sky gets to be the limit on horsepower. Keep in mind, when you go much past 600hp on a street car, you will lose pretty much any ability to drive on even a moderately slick road.

But with your budget, I wouldn't try to go monster power just yet. Keeping most things stock on it and adding a small forced induction system (turbo or supercharger) would be the easiest route. If you would be happy with keeping your engine under the 450hp barrier and want to be naturally aspirated, there are some high quality Head, cam and intake (HCI) swaps you can do. To me, the top manufacturer of heads would be AFR. Though Trick Flow offers a complete HCI swap that is outstanding. AFR doesn't offer a complete kit, just some of the best breathing heads out there. Edelbrock offers really nice HCI kits as well.

All told, an HCI swap will run you around $3500-$4000 with all the little stuff you will need to do to make the engine run smoothly. About the same cost as a turbo set up. The turbo will give you more power, but can be finicky little btches.

What kind of skills do you have in working on the car? Can you weld? Do you have a decent tool set?

I'm very much a novice when it comes to car repair. I've always loved cars, but I never really had a car worth working onto get hands on into it. I will def have to go to a shop too have the work done.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

I'm very much a novice when it comes to car repair. I've always loved cars, but I never really had a car worth working onto get hands on into it. I will def have to go to a shop too have the work done.

Nah, you can do more than you believe you can. You just need to study a bit.

Tool wise, make Harbour Freight your friend. Cheap tools that are warrantied and work.

Big stuff like a welder might need a knowledgable friend with a welder, or you can take it to a shop to have those things done.

A big part of modifying your mustang isn't just about driving it, it's about driving what you did yourself. You will save some serious money doing it yourself too.

You can always ask questions here as well, the guys like to help out. It's like we get to be part of dozens of builds and not just our own.

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

Nah, you can do more than you believe you can. You just need to study a bit.

Tool wise, make Harbour Freight your friend. Cheap tools that are warrantied and work.

Big stuff like a welder might need a knowledgable friend with a welder, or you can take it to a shop to have those things done.

A big part of modifying your mustang isn't just about driving it, it's about driving what you did yourself. You will save some serious money doing it yourself too.

You can always ask questions here as well, the guys like to help out. It's like we get to be part of dozens of builds and not just our own.

I can definitely see the people here are amazing! Thank you so much for the help and information. I'm definitely going to do my due diligence here in terms of research and then figure out exactly what direction I'm going to go in.

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

WOW! All I can say is thank you so much too everyone for your help and information. You have all really helped guide me in the direction that I am gonna go. I'm gonna take a couple of weeks here and do my due diligence to get everything in order and I will post pic's and videos of my progress. Again, i sincerely appreciate everyone taking the time to help me, everyone went way above and beyond what I expected.

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

I'm definitely going to get her tuned up to get her running right, the car was sitting for awhile so she's idling a bit rough. I would love to put a supercharger on her, I'm thinking Vortech (is that a good option?) Also help her breath a bit easier with headers, exhaust, im definitely going to upgrade the chassis and suspension. Maybe some 26" spinner rims and hydraulics... jkjk. Thanks again everyone!

 

[95' 5.0 Vertible]

Nah, you can do more than you believe you can. You just need to study a bit.

Tool wise, make Harbour Freight your friend. Cheap tools that are warrantied and work.

Big stuff like a welder might need a knowledgable friend with a welder, or you can take it to a shop to have those things done.

A big part of modifying your mustang isn't just about driving it, it's about driving what you did yourself. You will save some serious money doing it yourself too.

You can always ask questions here as well, the guys like to help out. It's like we get to be part of dozens of builds and not just our own.

I'm sure I will have lots of questions haha. I think yiur def right that building ot myself will be a big boost in prode when driving it. My only fear is I'm gonna screw up the car and then it'll end up costing me more too fox what I messed up than it would have if I just had a pro do it first...lol.