Automatic Shifters - Please Help
- Thread starter Stark77
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scupking
Active Member
I have an 01 and bought the B&M hammer shifter plus trans cooler. I haven't had it installed yet but will soon. I also am giong to have the JMOD done. The JMOD is a must.
Flghtmstr1
Member
I have a B&M Hammer shifter, and my car is an '01. I installed it myself in my garage using basic hand tools; it's not hard, just time consuming. It doesn't change the way the transmission operates, it just makes it easier to shift between gears by making gear changes much more affirmative.
The difference is that with the stock shifter, there's a chance that you could accidentally put the gear selector in an undesired position, whereas with the hammer shifter, there's no chance of accidentally putting the gear selector in the wrong gear, because the hammer shifter always ratchets up or down precisely to the next gear.
The difference is that with the stock shifter, there's a chance that you could accidentally put the gear selector in an undesired position, whereas with the hammer shifter, there's no chance of accidentally putting the gear selector in the wrong gear, because the hammer shifter always ratchets up or down precisely to the next gear.
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
speed545
Member
Hummm getting me interested in a shifter
Already have the cooler, modified shift point but no JMOD yet and not planning on doing it.
So question is: What would be the down effect of adding the B&M shifter without the JMOD or Valv body upgrade?
Keep in mind i m blown and see the track a few times a year
Thx
Already have the cooler, modified shift point but no JMOD yet and not planning on doing it.
So question is: What would be the down effect of adding the B&M shifter without the JMOD or Valv body upgrade?
Keep in mind i m blown and see the track a few times a year
Thx
JMOD doesn't sound of interest to me. I like the way my SCT adjusts firmness. I need to buy a tranny cooler before I upgrade valves. Still need to "make an appointment" to take my car in for rear end gears at HP here in Jax.
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
To my knowledge the SCT adjusts peak line pressure, but the 4R falls short is its lack of ability to sustain line pressure needed to hold bands and clutches, and also from compromising gear overlap. Valvebody modification through the j-mod or supplied parts in a shift kit help alleviate this shortcommings. Also getting in there you replace the 1-2 accumulator piston/spring with a proper one which helps as well, since with all the adjusted line pressure in the word, that being faulty the line pressure means didley for the 1-2. The 2-3 isn't the greatest either.
+1
With the later models, 99-04 Jmod do you still remove the springs from the accumulators or leave them alone?
I can't seem to find any information on this, even after reading Jerry's "AODE/4R70W Bible".
I'm going to be installing my Jmod plate this week and was wondering.
I just want slightly firmer shifts and to get rid of the "sliding into 4th" crappy shift that these units have.
So should I leave the springs/accumulators alone?
I have a 2003 GT and have a cooler already installed.
TIA..
For those that may not already know, here is the link to everything you've ever wanted to know (except my question !) about the AODE/4R70W.
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/index.html
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
This is actually what you want: http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/
Have a look at page 12: http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page12.shtml
Have a look here for common symptoms everyone:
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page4.shtml
And yes you want to replace it, i think even the 4R75W of 2004 should have it replaced.
And these are the two parts you'll want to add steve:
1-2 accum pistonF7AZ-7F251-AA - $9.17
2-3 accum piston F7AZ-7H292-AB - $5.88
speed545
Member
Ok, after promising myself not to spend on that car this year, i went through this thread and ordered the B&M kit and the knob
I hate my self
I hate my self
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
scupking
Active Member
Thanks CobraRed!!
I dropped the valve body today and took a look and it appears that the factory already drilled the Jmod holes in the plate !
I matched it up with the plate I got from VAP and every hole was drilled and in fact some on the factory plate were even larger than the VAP modified plate so I put back the original plate with new gaskets.
I know the tranny was not played with because I am the second owner and the first owner never did anything to the car.
The yellow plug was in the pan as well and you could tell that the factory plate had been done at manufacture time because the Jmod holes looked identical to the other holes. IOW no scrapes or marks or anything.
Evidently, mine got the full treatment right from Ford.
I didn't want to play with the accumulators because that would probably be overkill for what I want.
It was interesting and the instructions were pretty good.
Several items that were a PITA:
1. The little screen thing is a royal PITA to get back and stick up there while you are re-installing the valvebody. A little petroleum jelly helps, but the sucker wants to fall all the time and is very frustrating.
2. Their are 2 oddball bolts which have the threads starting up about 1/4 inch and the ends are kind of pointed. They only go in one place but make sure you mark where they go when you take them out.
3. It's nearly impossible to keep from getting a tranny fluid bath when doing this if you are doing it with jack stands/ramps. How ever many rags you think you need, multiply it by 5!
4. A cordless drill set on the lowest torque setting helps a whole lot because there are a lot of bolts.
Overall, I would give this an 8 out of 10 for the average mechanic doing it on ramps in the driveway.
Drop it to a 4 out of 10 if you have a lift.
Overall lot's of fun!
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
Wow, that's odd but awesome. Glad everything went as well as it can. Do you run a tranny cooler?
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
Mine doesn't exactly do it on command, under full throttle it's more likely - but what you're looking for is a manual valvebody. Mine is just the shift kit that preempts the needed line pressure that allows brisk shifts on demand yet still reliant on an rpm window.
03TrueBlue
Member
On my car and my friends 02 we both shift manually at 5000 and the tranny shifts at red line. If I tried to shift at red line it hits the rev limiter bad. But both cars bark the tires good. Mine makes a squealing noise. I am afraid of a tranny problem, but hoping its just the serpentine belt
Yes I run the B&M xxx264 model.
Works great although getting the correct fittings was a bit of a PITA.
Summit sells a kit specifically for Ford fittings that worked great.
I installed in front of the car towrd the drivers side and ran the hoses up the same holes that the stock lines go up, near the battery.
It worked out very well!
what9612
Member
i talked to my tuner about manually shifting an auto. he said when he roll races drop it in 2nd, and nail it and immediately shift into 3rd. the car wont actually shift until the computer tells it to which is prolly about 6k
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