Autometer Instrument gauge conversion

GearHeadPeter

Member
Jan 19, 2007
9
1
13
Hi All,

I have seen some postings on how to convert your stock 5 gauge instrument panel cluster to an updated one using Autometer gauges.

I have just completed the conversion and I am including all the things that I did to make that work.

There was another posting, and I cannot remember where I saw it, when someone converted their 5 gauge instrument panel cluster, and had a problem with their new Autometer ATM-5715 fuel gauge not reading the fuel level in the tank using a Ford stock sending unit. Their fix was adding a 173 Ohm resistor (350 ohm & 360 ohm in parallel = 173 ohm) between the Gnd and Sender terminal on the back on the fuel gauge, and it worked perfectly.

I tired the same thing and the gauge would still not read correctly as it was still a ¼ tank off. The key to this was that this person was using a Ford stock sending unit, and not an aftermarket fuel sending unit that most of us have installed. I installed a Scott Drake fuel sending unit part number 9275-0A that I got from NPD for $34.95. This gauge was very accurate to ohms wise to the stock sending unit, but it was manufactured as a Linear movement, whereas the stock sending unit was a non-linear movement. That is why the stock sending unit and a stock fuel gauge would work, but nothing else would be close.

Here are the resistance readings, all in ohms, from the new sending unit: Empty – 75.6, 4 gallons of gas – 67, 8 gallons of gas – 32, 12 gallons of gas – 17, and full – almost 16 gallons of gas – 8.75. These measurements would throw off a new gauge or even the stock gauge by a ¼ tank.

If you are using a Autometer ATM-5715 fuel gauge and a good aftermarket sending unit you will need to add a 47 ohm ½ watt resistor, Radio Shack part number 271-1105 - .99 cents for a 5 pack, between the fuel gauge GND and the Sender terminal. With that in place 8 gallons of gas read just shy of ½ tank, 12 gallons of gas read just above the ¾ mark, and of course 15.5 gallons of gas made the needle read past the Full mark where it pointed past ‘F’.

I have included all pics to show you what I did and how it looked when I was done. To make everything read better I used a LED instrument panel kit from Mustang Projects, #MP-646566-INT-WHT-DLX - $34.95, for the gauges I used 4 MP-194-WT LEDs, and since I used the original turn signal lights in the Mustangs Plus Gauge conversion pod - #11698 - $39.95, and I ordered an additional 3 – MP-1895-LED-W bulbs so I can use them in my Rally pack and the high beam indicator.

If you have any questions please feel free to drop me a line.

Thanks and good luck.

GearHeadPeter
 

Attachments

  • Instrument Panel Complete Front.jpg
    Instrument Panel Complete Front.jpg
    26 KB · Views: 1,209
  • Fuel - 47 ohm Gnd-Sender terminal.jpg
    Fuel - 47 ohm Gnd-Sender terminal.jpg
    40.3 KB · Views: 1,721
  • Sponsors (?)


More conversion pics

Hi Jon,

Thanks for the compliment on the write up. I have more pics to help with the conversion, and I will put up a couple of more to see what is needed.

Thanks,
GearHeadPeter
 

Attachments

  • Gauges-LED Blinkers.jpg
    Gauges-LED Blinkers.jpg
    97.5 KB · Views: 1,091
  • Instrument Panel Complete Back.jpg
    Instrument Panel Complete Back.jpg
    116.8 KB · Views: 1,133
looks really good..

i was ready to buy the 6 guage cluster and get the greenline guages from SW but now i have to consider this with a rally pac add on..


damn you! LOL .. i thought i had my mind made up:D
 
Autometer gauge conversion followup

Thanks all for the compliments on the conversion. It took some time to get everything cut down and fitting correctly, but it was well worth the trouble. One other thing I did was order a new woodgrain dash panel from CJ Pony Parts and ask for the Scott Drake one, it was more money, but the quality was unbelievable.

I have the original Rally pack that came with the car and had the tach rebuilt by the Tach Man, and for the clock I got the quartz replacement. Both the Tach and clock have LED back lighting and it is much easier to see at night.

I think having the stock 5 guage cluster keeps the vintage look, but now you also have modern gauges. Any questions on how to do the conversion just ask, as I am available to answer your questions on this.

Thanks,
GearHeadPeter
 
Mike & Scott cars

Hey guys, I just checked out your rides and they are awesome. Great minds think alike as we all seemed to have done a lot of the same things.

Drive em like you stole them as that is the way they should be driven, and enjoyed. :nice:
 
Auto Meter 4314 - 0 ohms empty & 90 ohms Full

This was great advice! I ended up getting the correct fuel gauge for a Ford. After doing a lot of research on various forums that discussed the Auto Meter gauge swap, I decided to go with the Auto Meter Ultra Lite Pro Comp silver face gauges and the gauge support from CJ Pony Parts. I used male and female polarized connectors from radio shack for a clean installation. Figuring the ground out for the self-grounding turn signals was a challenge. I ended up soldering a wire from a clasp on the bulb socket and grounding to the support brace behind the gauges....works great! Your resistor worked like a charm! I used with an aftermarket Scott Drake sending unit. Prior to the resistor installation I would get various readings on the gauge, but I installed the resistor and it consistently read 3/4 tank. Not knowing how much gas I actually had in the tank, I went to fill it up and sure enough, it took a shade over 4 more gallons to completely fill the tank. I did have some issues with the support brace behind the gauge cluster. I had to take a reciprocating saw and notch the bracket.....I accidentally went to far on the right side and cut all the way through it....OOOPS! I don't think it will matter though. All hot wires for the gauges are in-line fused. WOW...these things look great! Thanks for your great advice!
 
Hi All,

I have seen some postings on how to convert your stock 5 gauge instrument panel cluster to an updated one using Autometer gauges.

I have just completed the conversion and I am including all the things that I did to make that work.

There was another posting, and I cannot remember where I saw it, when someone converted their 5 gauge instrument panel cluster, and had a problem with their new Autometer ATM-5715 fuel gauge not reading the fuel level in the tank using a Ford stock sending unit. Their fix was adding a 173 Ohm resistor (350 ohm & 360 ohm in parallel = 173 ohm) between the Gnd and Sender terminal on the back on the fuel gauge, and it worked perfectly.

I tired the same thing and the gauge would still not read correctly as it was still a ¼ tank off. The key to this was that this person was using a Ford stock sending unit, and not an aftermarket fuel sending unit that most of us have installed. I installed a Scott Drake fuel sending unit part number 9275-0A that I got from NPD for $34.95. This gauge was very accurate to ohms wise to the stock sending unit, but it was manufactured as a Linear movement, whereas the stock sending unit was a non-linear movement. That is why the stock sending unit and a stock fuel gauge would work, but nothing else would be close.

Here are the resistance readings, all in ohms, from the new sending unit: Empty – 75.6, 4 gallons of gas – 67, 8 gallons of gas – 32, 12 gallons of gas – 17, and full – almost 16 gallons of gas – 8.75. These measurements would throw off a new gauge or even the stock gauge by a ¼ tank.

If you are using a Autometer ATM-5715 fuel gauge and a good aftermarket sending unit you will need to add a 47 ohm ½ watt resistor, Radio Shack part number 271-1105 - .99 cents for a 5 pack, between the fuel gauge GND and the Sender terminal. With that in place 8 gallons of gas read just shy of ½ tank, 12 gallons of gas read just above the ¾ mark, and of course 15.5 gallons of gas made the needle read past the Full mark where it pointed past ‘F’.

I have included all pics to show you what I did and how it looked when I was done. To make everything read better I used a LED instrument panel kit from Mustang Projects, #MP-646566-INT-WHT-DLX - $34.95, for the gauges I used 4 MP-194-WT LEDs, and since I used the original turn signal lights in the Mustangs Plus Gauge conversion pod - #11698 - $39.95, and I ordered an additional 3 – MP-1895-LED-W bulbs so I can use them in my Rally pack and the high beam indicator.

If you have any questions please feel free to drop me a line.

Thanks and good luck.

GearHeadPeter

Very detailed. Good to see you share your info(some people don't). I am having problems trying to get mine to work properly. Did you take your resistance readings by actually putting fuel into the tank? With 8 gallons of gas I am reading 16 ohms which shows 3/4 tank and should be 12 gallons. I called Autometer and they can only tell me to use the original sending unit. I have a couple of comments. This gauge is intended for use with the original ford non linear Sending Unit and from all the information I received for Autometer it should work correctly with the existing Fuel send ing unit. Did you by any chance try the old sending unit and if so did you measure the resistance with 4 gallons, 8 gallons etc and verify the reading of the Autometer gauge. My next step is to drain the tank, and start pouring fuel in and taking resistance and gauge readings. I was hoping to avoid that!