Battery relocation

Thanks man. I'd rather go with the heavier 1/o rather tha nthe summit kit. Plus I am running a 408. I dont want to have to worry about cranking it.

Wait . Sorry for all ques.. why not all 2ga? What is the diff between 2ga and 1/0?
 
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1/0 is thicker its the guage.....think of it like shotguns....the smaller you go the larger it gets...till you get to the otts...1/0 2/0 and up. local parts stores carry the wires here...my question is what does relocating the battery do to better the car? im curious if i should look into doing this....thats why im asking:D
 
1/0 is thicker its the guage.....think of it like shotguns....the smaller you go the larger it gets...till you get to the otts...1/0 2/0 and up. local parts stores carry the wires here...my question is what does relocating the battery do to better the car? im curious if i should look into doing this....thats why im asking:D

weight transfer over the rear tires. less clutter under the hood.
 
i figured it was for weight....the guy that had it before me must have had trouble with corrosion because my poss. cable is pretty much streched to the max....im thinking about doing this....if i do it i would want it as close to the rear seat as possible to be out of the way....is there rules on where it has to be?
 
i figured it was for weight....the guy that had it before me must have had trouble with corrosion because my poss. cable is pretty much streched to the max....im thinking about doing this....if i do it i would want it as close to the rear seat as possible to be out of the way....is there rules on where it has to be?

what for the track? there only rules are that it has to mounted securley with at least 3/8 bolts. and you have to have an external on/off switch. you can get by without the switch most of the time tho if your not running too fast and your not at the track every weekend.
it depends where you go tho. at RT66 there real strict on the rules and check everything. at US41 they check for leaks and ask if you have a helmet.
 
I've been running the kit for years now (the summit one) and it works great. Ibought the kit when it came out and I think I paid like $30 for teh whole thing. It comes with 2 ga. cable which is enough for just about all street cars. Plus its easier to route than the 0/1 ga. cable. Back then the summit kit was cheaper than buying the 2 ga. from the other guyz in their catalog (taylor, and painless) so I figured even if I dont use the kit its still cheaper. I ended up using the kit and it works just fine. Its a really good value in my opinion. Also, I have found the easiest way to wire it is to run the + from the new location battery to the starter and the + that used to go from the starter to the battery (underhood) to the power distribution box. Very easy and quick to do the wiring.

Just thought of a question for you. Did you add a fuse to this?
 
I put my cut off switch in the the spare wheel well...right at the back of it theres a nice flat surface to mount the switch and you can access it without getting on your back from the outside and nobody can see it because it's hidden behind the bumper. I'll see if I can get some pics of mine this weekend.

I just drilled a hole, took my die grinder and made it bigger until it was a REALLY tight fit to get the cut off switch in the hole, jammed it in there and siliconed it in there real good. It's in there real solid and it deinfately won't be letting any moisture or anything through it.
 
so you have to get under the car to **** it off??? i thought the point of it was so they could come up to the vehicle and shut it off easily ..if the car was on the roof it would be easy to get to it maybe...but they probley would never know it was under the car...
 
Yes the lower the number or "gauge" the thicker the wire. The thicker the wire the lower the losses and also the more current you can pass through it at a given voltage. 2ga. is enough probably even for the 408 to be honest.

My harshest test on the car (and the 2 ga. cable) so far was actually a few weeks ago. As you chicagoans remeber we had that week where it was close to 0 deg. at night and about 10 deg. during the daytime. Anyways, my car sat outside for 4 days in that weather (w/o being touched) and I got it to start, albeit after about 10 sec. of slow cranking (bosch reman. starter) but it fired up. And this is with a 10.8:1 compression ratio 331 w/ a .544 lift cam and a stock untuned cpu. So if that 408 will run on 93octane and is tuned properly I think 2 ga. will be fine.

And yea moving the battery to the trunk is not only for weight transfer but weight distribution. The right rear of our cars is the lightest corner and thats where you want the battery for better traction, but it also reduces our heavy front weight bias for better and more neutral handling.
 
Where would I put a fuse and for what gcomfx.com ? I'm sorry I dont understand. Also i bolted my kill switch to the rear bumper support underneath the car. If you reach under the bumper right below the "G" in "MUSTANG" on the GT rear bumper it's right there you can t miss it. It's the cheapo Jegs/Summit kill switch. I have had it completely submerged in water before (with the car running) and it still works fine... for those of you who worry about something like that. I have submerged the car enough to get water into the tranny thru a bad tailshaft seal and the whole wiring setup works fine. Gotta love 12V systems.:nice:
 
do you have any pictures of your install on the rear bumper?? i would like to see it the only problem i would have is that my nos bottle is going in the right rear of the trunk so if i move the battery it would have to go on the left side
 
Where would I put a fuse and for what gcomfx.com ? I'm sorry I dont understand. Also i bolted my kill switch to the rear bumper support underneath the car. If you reach under the bumper right below the "G" in "MUSTANG" on the GT rear bumper it's right there you can t miss it. It's the cheapo Jegs/Summit kill switch. I have had it completely submerged in water before (with the car running) and it still works fine... for those of you who worry about something like that. I have submerged the car enough to get water into the tranny thru a bad tailshaft seal and the whole wiring setup works fine. Gotta love 12V systems.:nice:

Not a big deal, just a safety thing I've thought about. In case the wire rubs through over the years. It is straight off the battery. If it shorts to the frame, I could see it getting ugly before I disconnect the battery. I may look into the disconnect switch just for that reason.
 
Yes the lower the number or "gauge" the thicker the wire. The thicker the wire the lower the losses and also the more current you can pass through it at a given voltage. 2ga. is enough probably even for the 408 to be honest.

My harshest test on the car (and the 2 ga. cable) so far was actually a few weeks ago. As you chicagoans remeber we had that week where it was close to 0 deg. at night and about 10 deg. during the daytime. Anyways, my car sat outside for 4 days in that weather (w/o being touched) and I got it to start, albeit after about 10 sec. of slow cranking (bosch reman. starter) but it fired up. And this is with a 10.8:1 compression ratio 331 w/ a .544 lift cam and a stock untuned cpu. So if that 408 will run on 93octane and is tuned properly I think 2 ga. will be fine.

And yea moving the battery to the trunk is not only for weight transfer but weight distribution. The right rear of our cars is the lightest corner and thats where you want the battery for better traction, but it also reduces our heavy front weight bias for better and more neutral handling.

Thanks man. :nice: Is 1/0 one step up from 2g?