Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by jerry S, Nov 16, 2005.
What heads are these? Stock? :o
Edelbrock RPM Performers and an RPM Air Gap manifold
Here is what he proposed to me:
This is what I could do for you:
-Port match upper/lower polish the runners and port match to the head.
-Fully port, reshape runners, port match to intake/exhaust gasket, hand blend the short radi (where the hidden power is at), work and reshape into tear drop the valve guide bosses, polish the runners and polish the combustion chambers.
I couldn't agree more with this statement, but with those heads/intake and that cam he SHOULD be over 400 at the flywheel. Do you not agree?
Edit: Jerry are those the 2.02/1.60 heads?
Yes. Part no. Edl 60259
I will look into the timing and the A/F and post the graph tomorrow. What I can say is that my engine stops making power at 5800-5900 RPM. I was thinking I should be making power to 6100-6200.
Perhaps you could get it dyno tuned and run the exhaust inside the car at the same time. Kill two birds with one stone!
I was talking with a few people today and figured theortically you should be around 430 at the flywheel. Also, we are in agreement on the victor jr. Don't waste your money porting the air-gap. Sell it and get a victor jr. Your motor would benfit in torque and horsepower across the entire RPM range. You could get the heads ported . . . but that isn't why the motor is acting up right now.
Electric water pump: $350
Electric fuel pump: $110
new billet steel harmomic dampner: $270
- None of the above is really going to make power.
Sure they are nice to have, especially the harmonic balancer but that's more of a safety issue than a power maker.
Now paying $1000 in labor, well....
I would check timing first: make sure you have around 34-36 dgrees of total timing all in by 3500 r.p.m. Once that is adjusted, work on carb. adjustments.
The biggest draw back of ford engines are the weazy heads, and crappy exhaust systems. Until those are figured out. the MODs wouldn't show much. As you have learned from your wallet, unfortunately!
That being said, the 351s do have better heads then the 302/289s but for the extra cubes it sucked up rather easily.
I agree with everyone else, on getting an killer tune done, but again, I wouldn't be the person to tell you how much if any, that will give you in gains.
Mod'n cars sucks, you have to look the engine as an entire package not just bits and pieces.... and that gets expensive.
At least try and make the guy feel better LOL :SNSign:
Well....you shoulda done that yourself.
Seriously, if you had done it yourself, you would have only spent $335 per horse!
Just another thought, is the fuel in the UK formulated for an 11:1 compression ratio?
2BAV8 is correct, dead on even. There are parts that add hp, and those that free it up. I see one that "frees up" hp, but that is it my man. I have said it a few times in here, but don't pay attention to dyno #'s. Read sig below. the best way to see what you have is to take it to a track, those are really the only numbers that matter, and are going to be accurate. My car made a measly 275 to the rear with ARF 185's, and all the goodies. But it ran 12.14 in the 1/4 and was getting faster all that day, but only 3 passes. The MPH for the weight of the car showed it to make more than that anyways. There were guys there, including one of my friends who made 380 to the ground. But he was a full .7 slower in the 1/4 than me. Go figure. Moral of the story, dyno number don't mean ****.
I don't consider these parts power adders as much as "parts that free up power."
I was told by those HERE allegedly in the know that removing accessory drag was supposed to be good for something. I removed the power steering and AC as well as the water pump. What surprises me is that the before and after shows only a gain of 3 hp and ft lbs torque as a result of removing all accessory drag except for the alternator. As for the harmonic balancer, again, not a power adder, but was under the impression that with a relatively hot build, I was complementing the engine by providing the best possible dampening effects.
As for the labor costs, take what you pay for stuff in the US and double its price. I was paying over $6.00 a gal for gas long before you guys were paying $2. Then there is the 20% sales tax, 52% income tax, and 60% tax on cars. I can go on about the dog tax, TV tax, personal property tax........
That cam has 112 lsa, not good for a carb. I don.t know what that is costing you hp wise, but I'm sure the same cam with 108 lsa would help. I also think the C6 is holding you back. They are known for eating hp, Ive heard as much as 40hp more than a C4, but have no data. The weight of the internals also drags down the numbers since hp is figured by accelerating a drum. There must be something up though. I think I would find a better mechanic, those mods should show more gain than that.
it is actually a 108 centerline. The cam is a custom grind. I am thinking about a new tranny but was considering an AOD. I know that this is as much a power grabber as the C6 though.
Jerry like some people have stated that C6 is a big contributing factor to the problem. All I could get out of my 351 before the build was 155rwhp. The C6 can eat up almost as much as 25% of your power, by the time it hits the wheels. Don't get down on yourself, I just realized my cam bearings may have gone bad when my old oil pump died. So I get to pull the engine again, I know the kind of letdown you are feeling. Also what is the elevation where you live, that and the C6 together could lead to a huge decrease in power.
Centerline and lobe seperation are different. Are you sure about the lsa number?
Is the cam dial in or installed straight up?