best 347 h/c/i

Sonicaceman

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Sep 28, 2004
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what would be a good cost effective 347 h/c/i combo that will get me about 325rwhp on a mustang dyno for about $2000-$2500? i was wondering if the trickflow kit would get me close, i know the heads are a little small but the kit is well thought out and works good from what i hear. i know anderson makes a kit with patriot heads, a typhoon intake, and an anderson n51h cam i think, and holley makes the systemax kit which i hear mixed reactions about but once again i think is 302 based, and all the edelbrock kits i see are for carbed motors, but i noticed there are model numbers for the efi parts like the rpm intake, with rpm heads, and one of their cams, i thought that the rpm xt with the rpm intake and a comp cams cam would work well, but you're looking at some cash there. i've also considered afr 185 heads, a comp cams off shelf and the trick flow track heat. any input??

i have a 347 with flat top pistons now and cast iron roush 200's and a anderson cam, not working good so i want a proven combo.
 
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which afm cam do you have? their cam's are top shelf, but just like anything else, can run like crap if not matched up well. depending on which one ya got, i'd say keep it and just get some afr 185's and an eddy rpm xt intake.
 
For a street car, I'd go AFR 185s, Edelbrok RPM II, and a custom cam

I don't remember the exact costs, but it'd be something like $1500 for the heads, 600 for the intake, and 325 for a custom cam (FTI's charge). $2425. You would also blow away your power goal. Of course if you went used on the heads and intake, you could get them for a lot less.

I'm assuming you've already paid for the stroker kit and all of the other bolt-ons you'd need.

Chris
 
won't those flat top pistons have to be changed out??

i agree with everything Fastdriver said... AFR 185s are awesome and flow great for a 347, intake is up for debate but the edelbrock RPM, holley systemax, and TFS track heat would all be good choices

custom cam x100000, i personally recommend Jay Allen at CI from personal experience, but Flowtech Inductions is right up there with them in quality and customer service...
 
i was going to say piston to valve clearance on a higher lift cam? i was under the impression flat top pistons were better suited for forced induction? i could be way off though, don't massacre me if i am, i've only built one motor and it was mine, haha
 
Don't forget about spark plugs, head gaskets, head studs, timing chain, lifters, pushrods, anti-freeze, oil & filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, roller rockers (unless you have them), valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, etc....all of that little stuff is gonna add up to alot. So keep that in mind for your budget.
 
347 h/c/i

i already have a running 347, my combo just wasn't right, i had the cam given to me with the car and i shouldn't have skimped out, i would have been better off selecting something for what i had, oh well. good point about the little stuff it does at up, but i have all the major things on the car already so all i should have to worry about is the fluids, plugs and all that misc stuff. i will most likely have the machine shop assemble the motor, it's not that much to do the shortblock up and it saves mea lot of time, i just drop it in and hook stuff up from there. i'm not a hundred percent about the ptv clearance issue with the afr 185's?? this could bea problem and i may need new pistons which wouldn't be in my budget, and this is one of the reasons i'm researching this now. anyone have the afr 185's and know anything about this. i hear they are great and i would love to use them just don't want to buy them and find out i need new pistons for another $400-$500 because in that case i could just go with some really good cnc brodix heads that are $2000, but that would be over the budget too so throw some ideas out here.
 
Piston to valve clearance is not dictacted by the amount of peak lift.

That is a myth.


It's a common mistake...one i didn't get a chance to correct in the "afr 205's on a stock block" thread before it got locked. Since max lift occurs during the down stroke, the valve is chasing the piston, so the bigger issue is duration and when the valve starts to open and close.

Also as for your current combo not working...could it be tuning? What kind of flow numbers do those Roush heads have? If you just threw this thing together and didn't get it tuned, that's your problem right there.

As for what works...it's all in just having a good matched combo. For me right now mine is running pretty stout and i'm using ported factory 351 heads and way too much cam...but again, it's all in the tuning. My buddy's 347 has Edel Victor Jr heads with a Systemax intake and a custom Ed Curtis cam (which is pretty huge) and it's making 385hp on a "safe break-in tune" and he was told to drive it for 3k miles, change the oil and come back and it'll make 400hp at the wheels easy. So...from what i'm seeing with his combo, those Edelbrock heads with the Systemax intake work great as long as the cam follows.
 
Also as for your current combo not working...could it be tuning? What kind of flow numbers do those Roush heads have? If you just threw this thing together and didn't get it tuned, that's your problem right there.


Yeah he had another thread in the tech section. It was tuned on a Mustang Dyno. Numbers were low. He was having an MSD problem as well. As for the Roush heads he's using...I have heard nothing but bad about those heads :shrug:
 
h/c/i

really i haven't heard a lot bad about the roush heads????? they are okay, a cheap alternative to stock heads i know. not as good as afr's or brodix, or trick flows but they are much cheaper. i bought the heads when i was in college so you know how my budget was. if i could make my intake and heads work, and just get a cam and hit around 300rwhp i would be happy. looking for some good tq and a cam that would work good between 1500-6500 range. trying to work with what i got. what good options do i have???? i'm taking care of some issues the car has right now and throwing it on the dyno again this summer. the car has been tuned by professionals but it was five years ago, the heads have not been touched from out of the box and the lower intake on the gt40 i heard was a little restrictive and that hasn't been touched either.

port lower intake ($300, mild port on heads $250, new cam $300) and back to dyno $300 = $1150 worth it or not? my goal is 300 rwhp Naturally Aspirated

current heads out of box flow numbers
.100 .200 .300 .400 .500 .600
intake 58 119 169 212 235 242
ext 52 91 123 139 153 159
 
i wouldn't be happy with a 347 making 300 rwhp, my car made 306/311 on a mustang dyno with a completely stock bottom end, custom cam, massaged 58cc TFS heads, and a track heat manifold... and this is before an electric fan and aluminum driveshaft... you now have 45 more cubes than i do... don't settle dude, it's like shooting the horse at the finish line

even if it means the car sits for a while until you save to get the right combo it'll be worth it in the end
 
h/c/i

just sent you a reply e-mail, said about the same thing you did. i'm going to try and make the best out of what i have but get the good stuff in time. i just don't have the cash to get what i want now. i would like the afr 185's the trick flow track heat and a custom cam, and then another tune, should work awesome but that would cost me about $2500 and that is if my current pistons work with that, if not i'm looking at another 500. you did it right when you did yours. i was in college and anxious and i used a cam that was given to me after i bought the heads and intake, i wasn't thinking, now i'm realizing how much time and money i could have saved if i was more patient. don't get me wrong the car is fast, just doesn't show any of that on the dyno sheet.
 
h/c/i

it's not what i thought i should have and the numbers might be more of a mind %$^& than anything else. the car rips, but my brothers na 00 gt beat me a while back and he only had mild bolt ons. just a big disappointment to say the least. i'm getting married next year so i really can't spend that much. love the lady but i love the car too, but she comes first so i might have to be patient this time. i will definately put some dyno numbers on here later this summer when i re-dyno it.
 
This may be totally off track,but something sort of like this happened to my buddy when he first dynoed his 347. This was his second stroker...the first one having Keith Black hyper pistons and 3 of them busted (junk) so he built a new more serious 347. This one has better everything pretty much, including heads/intake/custom cam..the works. The old motor made a little over 300hp at the wheels with GT40P heads...this one made almost the exact same numbers and he was totally let down. Turns out his ebrake was sticking and that was robbing him power. I'm not saying your ebrake is sticking, but i am saying it may not be the engine and you have to look into the car as a whole sometimes.
 
What did your bro make after he fixed the e-brake?


Here's his compiled dyno collection, pretty much from stock to where he is now but there's a bunch of combos in there. If you look at the second to last dyno, it made 314/330....that was with the ebrake sticking. Then he fixed that and it went to 385/399. http://www.flickr.com/photos/11991651@N03/2571643456/

They told him to break it in and come back for a retune and it'll make 400hp or more at the wheels. It only has about 1500 miles on it at the moment.