Best Cast Iron Heads

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by Grabbin' Asphalt, Aug 23, 2013.

  1. I already found this on ebay for roughly $1000 :

    using the -4cc difference below with my 54-55cc chambers it would raise that 9.3:1 ratio to roughly 9.7:1 ....possibly tweak it more with a gasket??? ...but I really like that number.

    This is SCAT kit number 1-94105 and comes complete with 9000 cast crankshaft, I-beam rods with cap screw bolts, forged pistons, rings, rod and main bearings.

    Crank Stroke: 3.250

    Rod length: 5.400

    Pistons: Forged DISH

    9.3-1 with 58cc heads

    8.7-1 with 64cc heads

    8.1-1 with 70cc heads

    Displacement with .030 over pistons is 331 Cubic Inches

    ***Here is Anderson N41 dyno with a "302", is your tune right??
    #101 Grabbin' Asphalt, Aug 31, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2013
  2. I REALLY like that TFS R intake, I may go to that one day :nice:
  3. I'll say skip the Ebay rotating assembly. Unless it's from a reputable company, you're not likely to get any support what so ever from them. I bought my 331 rotating assembly from Coast High Performance, complete with rings, bearings, ARP hardware, 28oz balancer and billet flywheel for $1,200 out the door. You're not gonna get much better than that from Ebay, or anyplace else.

    ...and making 400/400 with a set of worked over vintage D0AE or D0OE heads?!? Not too likely. Even if they are able to crack those numbers, consider what they've got into them. Full CNC port work, machine work and hand blended bowls, 5-angle valve job, oversized 1.94/1.60 valves, hardened exhaust seats, bronze valve guides, dual valve springs, high temp coating, etc, etc. That's probably $800 worth of work before you even buy the heads. Compare that to the cost of a fully assembled set of aftermarket aluminum heads right out of the box and the price vs. performance comparison isn't even close.

    Here's the exact kit I bought. With 58cc heads it'll run you approx. 10.3 : 1 CR. Any higher than that and you'll start to run into issues finding pump gas.
    Grabbin' Asphalt likes this.
  4. I didn't see a link to your eBay kit. But I see it has dished pistons? They will need to be somewhere around 8-12 cc's to get compression where you need to be (rough guess). That's fine as long as you never swap heads again. If you do, then you will have to mill them to get back even to around 10:1 compression.

    I hate to say it, but if the short block is good, get you a nice set of aluminum heads. Stay 302.

  5. Like the rotating kit:nice:

    My P's have already been super ported. Thats why I'm already at 280rwhp_318rwtq with an Ecam.

    I may leave the valves or I may upgrade a little.
    But I just read where a guy had AFR 165cc with an Ecam and Trickflow intake and he was at 284.6 at 6400rpm and I'm smoking him on trq 268rwtq.

    Gonna stick with my P heads, there my secret sauce:stir:
    Quite positive these heads are a family airloom now after finding Ecam AFR 165cc combos that I'm smoking.
    #105 Grabbin' Asphalt, Aug 31, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2013
  6. When your ready for that rotating assembly let me know.... of your not putting boost to it there is no reason not to go 347 and stuff as much compression as you can but with a iron head you need to be careful.

    Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
    #106 Rick 91GT, Aug 31, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2013
    Grabbin' Asphalt likes this.
  7. agreed, buy from someone reputable
  8. When you buy a Scat kit they can uses whomever forged piston so you may get a Probe FPS (4032 alloy only will fit up to a 1.94" intake), Keith Black, etc

    If you buy from someone else you may get a better assembly at or around the same price but with a Probe SRS (2618 alloy and will fit a 2.02 valve) higher quality plasma moly ring set etc..

    I'm not a fan of the Probe brand cranks personally I know where they come from, the rods however come from the same manufacture and are generally fine.

    Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
  9. Thanks Rick,
    I will not use any boost for this build. Just high compression N/A

    Two things:
    Please recheck my compression calculations
    59cc with .030 milled= 54cc???
    Thinking of the 5.315 rod instead of the 5.4 for a durable street DD oil control etc. Like for this to be a 1 time solid DD bottom end.
  10. If it is a scat part number, it's the same no matter who you get it from. There are plenty of reputable dealers on eBay. Also, if you got a whole kit for $1200 with flywheel and balancer, I hate to tell you, you got a box full of Chinese crap. My crankshaft alone was almost $800.

  11. For the most part you are correct when talking a SCAT kit...however the same kit may have a different brand -4cc piston.

    The other eBay stuff you have to look to see what series of part they are selling... $300 FPS probe piston or $425 SRS probe piston.

    The scat balanced kit come with flex plates (you can option in a flywheel) and they use SCAT branded Professional Products balancers. The 9000 series crank stroker kits can be had for around $800.
    I prefer to use another brand balancer, flywheel or flex plate and balance myself.

    Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
  12. All the scat cast cranks are Chinese.

  13. And most of the forged are as well....finished in the USA

    Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
  14. Gotcha, well I may just source the rotatating assembly from you and maybe see what kind of balancer, flexplate and flywheel you can dig up. Would get it balanced from from you as well if you want to get in on this unique street torque set up :nice: know my heads and CC's already, let me know what you work out, thnx Rick ***if you have a block for this I may just let you put the short block , maybe a quote with a block and a quote without, not sure if shipping would kill me cause I'm in Ga.
    #114 Grabbin' Asphalt, Aug 31, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2013
  15. Do NOT buy a kit from some guy on Ebay. All they do is throw a bunch of parts in a box. I'm not going to go into a long dissertation on you get what you pay for. I think you need to take day or so and back away from the keyboard and research like crank chatter, balancing of engine components, matching of bearings. Thinking that you can just buy a box of parts and slap them together with success is a painful and expensive learning lesson.

    Guys like Rick, Buddy Rawls, Woody. Ed, Mark Oneal, and a dozen other good engine builders can help point you in the right direction. Ask them how many of those cheap Chinese made cranks they send back or have to rebalance because of poor quality and machining.
    A5literMan likes this.
  16. Yeah, I couldn't go for that. Damn Chinese iron, who knows what is in it. Probably made of an old clothes drier they melted down with the lint still in it.

  17. I'm obviously not an engine builder, and am not saying any of the above info is incorrect, especially anything that Rick may say.

    I have the Scat 9000 kit from Coasthigh/Probe. I upgraded to the SRS pistons, and had them balance it. There is no way that I know how to properly blueprint a motor, but I measured everything that I knew how to, and it all came within tolerances.

    I weighed every rod, wrist pin and piston, found their average weight, and mixed and matched them until I had each rod piston assembly within .2 grams of each other. I have to say, the motor runs very well. They may be Chinese cranks, and certainly not the best on the market, but they will work fine for most of us.

  18. Aren't a lot of the cranks on the market made overseas? Any American made stuff is $$$. It's pretty much impossible to manufacture anything 100% in the US anymore and be even remotely cost-effective.
  19. That's slowly changing. Even now, you're able to find more and more stuff made in the U.S. than you could just couple of years ago. It's starting to shift again. As the standard of living increases in China, it becomes more expensive to make things there. Pretty soon, the offset will tilt and won't be nearly as cost effective to ship raw materials over and have finished products shipped back.
  20. It has to do with re inserting the manufacturing into the supply line. I have seen no significant price difference between Chinese stuff and American stuff. If there is any savings, they aren't passing it on to us.