Best mods for a stock engine...

Trefty said:
Ok, I'm thinking gears may be what I do first, 3.73 as that is what I want when I get a new tranny in. Only problem is I don't know when I'll be doing that, it might be a year or more. Maybe I'll just go with shorty headers, I had them on my last Stang and I liked them.

You do know that the gears go in the diff and not the tranny right?
 
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Trefty said:
I'm not planning on changing the heads for probably a couple years so what is a good intake to get that is not to expensive? Or is just keeping the stock upper and porting the lower a good idea?

Also, what is the difference between an H and X pipe? I will definitely be going no cats, so that's not an issue. I'm looking for a deeper tone opposed to a higher pitched one. Thanks.

Send your lower to Tmoss and let him work his magic, I would throw in a set of 3.73's.........best money I have spent was the gears:nice:
 
Snikt89GT said:

Thanks for the link... This information is also posted in the "useful technical index" at the top of this page. And for those that didn't follow the link:

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Anyway: Stangnet Buyers Guide to the Fox Mustang

First mods should be as follows (my take):
In order of Priority
1) Subframe connectors (SFC's) full length ones are prefered for a stiff chasis
2) Gears: 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 seem to be the popular choices
3) For AOD people: Get a higher stall converter and a shift kit! (don't forget the Tranny cooler)
4) Full Exhuast (headers, hi-flo cats, catback w/ mufflers)
5) Buy a K&N panel filter (no CAI kit required) and put it in the stock box
6) Bumped timing to 12 - 14 degrees (free mod) 10 Degrees is stock.
7) Larger MAF, TB (MAF cars from 1988 california only, 1989-1993)
8) Better Intake Manifold or a Ported one by TMOSS
9) 3G alternator upgrade / electric fan
10) Fix the stock brakes.

Optional MODs:
11) Strut tower brace (necessary on Convertibles IMO)
12) Underdrive pullies (they can't be used on S/C motors and cause charging problems)
13) Weight reduction out of the nose of the car
14) Shocks/Struts and lowering springs
15) C/C plates if you lower the car
16) Short throw shifter (if you have a manual transmission)
17) Cleaning or replacing all of the sensors (TPS, IAC, etc. - not a mod but it helps)

After those basic mods it will be pretty much up to you to pick a final direction for your car. There are plenty of Super Chargers or H/C/I [Heads, Cam and Intake] packages to choose from to really wake up the car.

Also, don't forget about the basic tune up
1) Changing all of the fluids (oil, coolant, trans, rear end, brake and some of the power steering)
2) Plugs: (non-platnum type) Autolite or Motorcraft are prefered
3) Oil filter: Motorcraft or equivalent (not FRAM)
4) Air filter: see first mods item #4
5) Plug wires: Ford Motorsport (FRPP) 9mm units are great
6) Cap / Rotor
7) Oxygen sensors
 
Strictly going for performance, the best mod you can make to a bone stock car is gears. Sub frames are a good canidate but they won't make you faster, and a CAI won't give you the seat of the pants feelings that a good gear will. A set of 3.73 or 4.10s in a stock car will turn it into a really fun ride really quick.
 
Trefty said:
I'm not planning on changing the heads for probably a couple years so what is a good intake to get that is not to expensive?

Since you will be changing, Explorer can be found the cheapest - $200-$250, unless you find a Cobra or GT40 for that. Run it stock on the stock heads. They all make essentially the very same power.

You can do a lower for ~$150-$165 including shipping if you don't change heads.
 
tmoss said:
Since you will be changing, Explorer can be found the cheapest - $200-$250, unless you find a Cobra or GT40 for that. Run it stock on the stock heads. They all make essentially the very same power.

You can do a lower for ~$150-$165 including shipping if you don't change heads.


Ok, I'll check into that.

I'll be posting some pics of the Stang I picked up today, '91 5.0L Coupe with AOD, bone stock with 140,000 kms. I'm so excited to have another Mustang!:nice: