Best performance-mpg for 94 5.0

[Bullitt95]

Just put a supercharger on it. The blower (centrifugal style) will actually improve your gas mileage by 1 or 2 miles a gallon provided you aren't getting on it all the time. That will easily yield you 300 to the wheels without doing anything internal to the engine.

I don't think there's a supercharger on Earth that'll improve gas mileage simply because they're all belt-driven by the crankshaft and incur a parasitic HP loss. Turbos are driven by exhaust gases and although there's some pumping loss, it's much less than the parasitic drag of a supercharger. Therefore a turbo still won't improve gas mileage over a N/A engine but it'll have less of a negative effect on gas mileage than a supercharger at the same compression ratio and boost level.
The real beauty of a turbo on a 5.0L engine is that you can have the power of a 7.0L engine but still have the gas mileage of a 5.0L engine.

 

[HollisArmstrong]

Bullitt95,
I think you are correct in your assertation on the effect of forced induction and the fuel mileage of a naturally asperated 5.0. Your last statement is exactly what I am looking for.

By the way, my favorite pet when I was a child was a mixed breed dog that was extremely smart, a great companion, and an excellent hunter. His name was Bullet.

Thank you for your input in my quest on Stangnet.

Hollis

 

[revhead347]

I don't think there's a supercharger on Earth that'll improve gas mileage simply because they're all belt-driven by the crankshaft and incur a parasitic HP loss. Turbos are driven by exhaust gases and although there's some pumping loss, it's much less than the parasitic drag of a supercharger. Therefore a turbo still won't improve gas mileage over a N/A engine but it'll have less of a negative effect on gas mileage than a supercharger at the same compression ratio and boost level.
The real beauty of a turbo on a 5.0L engine is that you can have the power of a 7.0L engine but still have the gas mileage of a 5.0L engine.

In theory the belt driven centrifugal should improve your fuel economy. I can at least say I've never known a well tuned supercharged 5.0 to lose any fuel economy. Vortech advertises a 1 mpg increase with their kit.

Kurt

 

[KamiKaziDK]

Technically both can increase fuel economy if you're not on the pedal since it will take less effort to get up to speed with the same throttle. I would spend some time determining which amount of driving you do the most, street or hwy, and choose a rear end gear that will take advantage of that. When you rebuild the engine, get lightweight and roller components that fit your budget too, every little bit helps. Put skinnier tires on too if you only plan on racing it at the track and get a 2nd set with some slicks or fatties, just my thoughts

 

[revhead347]

The reason it's more efficient is more scientific than that. Essentially, the compressor in the turbo or supercharger compresses the air a lot more efficiently than the reciprocating motion of the engine itself.

Kurt

 

[HollisArmstrong]

What do you guys suggest when it comes to building the transmission and rear-end to put those horses to the ground?

 

[revhead347]

I'm not a big auto guy, so I can't tell you much. You can get a very decent transmission for about $1800 from TCI or someone like that. If the tranny you have now is fine, then you might want to put a Transpak in it and see how long it lasts.

The rear end out of a Mustang is actually pretty solid in stock form. If you never put drag slicks on it, and just drive it on the street, it really doesn't need any modification. If you decide to change the gear ratio in it, it's a good idea to rebuild the locker in it while you have it apart. The rebuild kit for the locker is like $59. If you want to be indestructable with that kind of power, you can put a set of forged axles in it for like $200. Then you won't be able to break it on slicks.

Kurt

 

[KamiKaziDK]

For the AODE, get an upgraded servo, a shift kit that modifies the valve body...I like transgo, kevlar bands, mechanical diode and replace the snap rings with "spiral rings" along with a good rebuild kit and you should be pretty good up to 450 or so. Stock aode will handle about 300-325. Oh, and always throw on an aftermarket cooler

 

[Bullitt95]

In theory the belt driven centrifugal should improve your fuel economy. I can at least say I've never known a well tuned supercharged 5.0 to lose any fuel economy. Vortech advertises a 1 mpg increase with their kit.

That might be possible if you're cruising at a constant speed on a light throttle but it's going to take a very restrained right foot to achieve that. Much depends on how you drive and the conditions you're driving in so there are too many variables that can affect gas mileage for Vortech to make such a claim. You'd need to monitor the gas mileage over the course of a few thousand miles to even out the variables and reach a meaningful conclusion.
I do agree that a well tuned FI 5.0 should lose little, if any, fuel economy over its N/A version though. I also agree with the advice that David (Kamikazi) gave about the tranny.

 

[HollisArmstrong]

I know I need to beef up the AODE. Im leaning toward the Interceptor kit
Ford-AODE.com the Ultimate AODE / 4R70W Performance Transmission Website
Im not real knowledgeable about what stall speed would work best.
Im looking at Eaton, Detroit, or Ford Racing 31 spline differential. Would a 31 spline tru loc from aN Explorer hold up?

 

[KamiKaziDK]

I would just buy all the parts and find a reputable local shop that will build it for you, you'll save a lot of money. the most expensive things are the rebuild kit itself and the torque converter. For the stall speed, just ask a transmission expert. If you want some good info, go over to click click racing, that'll be your best aode resource.

 

[revhead347]

I'd tell the reputable transmission guy what you want, and have him buy the parts. His parts, his problem. Customer parts are your problem.

Kurt

 

[HollisArmstrong]

I have been trying to figure out how I would pipe in a turbo and where to locate it. I am still down to the frame so I have to plan now for any mods I will need to make so I can do all of that before painting.

Anyone have any ideas? Remember that the inner fender-wells are narrower than that of the Mustang. I no longer have the shock towers as I am changing over to the MII front end.

Anyone have pics?

Hollis

 

[KamiKaziDK]

Good point Kurt

 

[HollisArmstrong]

I understand what you mean about responsibility of parts and labor. However this is a dream build from the ground up. If I wanted to go with that philosophy I would have had experts do the whole car. I want to build this all myself when I am confident in my ability to figure it out. Some things are better left to experts, especially when it has to do with safety but much of it I am learning as I go. This is not something that is going to happen over night. I currently have about 4k invested and if I do the turbo and all the trans and rear mods to accompany it I am looking at a total investment of around 15k and thats with me doing most of the work. I am not a rich man so I have to build as funds become available. When I am finished I will have a very beautiful and unique car that will be paying tribute to a team and a man I have a lot of respect for. I am doing the car in Crimson red and white for my team Alabama and on the inside I will have the pics of Bear Bryant on the seats. I will be able to look at the finished product and not only be proud of the looks and performance but also know that I am the one that did it.

Hollis

 

[revhead347]

I understand wanting to build it yourself. But if you haven't done an automatic transmission before, don't. I did it once, and although it turned out ok, I had some bloody fingers, and chunks of hair missing from my skull when I was done. I think I spent a solid hour trying to pull the center snap ring out of the case lugs with a pair of booger pickers.

Not sure what to tell you about routing the turbo plumbing. If you go with the turbo, it's going to be all custom, and expensive. The stuff you buy from say B&G will have to be hacked up so bad, it's not worth buying the first place. You're going to have to do a ton of research, and figure out a way. I would start with finding a set of shorty headers that you can reverse so that they face forward. This should clear the strut tower braces. I am aware of how close those towers can be on older Fords. Very frequently, if you choose to go with head studs on an older Ford, you have to pull the engine to change the head gaskets. Once you have the headers facing forward, you can plum in the common tube and the collector from there. Running the down pipe and remainer of the exhaust will be tricky, but not impossible. I've seen people run them inside the fender up over the tire.

Kurt

 

[nmcgrawj]

LSX swap.



Or a T56 with a .50 6th gear will help your cruising MPG.

 

[KamiKaziDK]

LSX swap.

Not in a 61' Falcon......

 

[nmcgrawj]

Not in a 61' Falcon......

yea i know. 95% of guys are against it anyway. But....cant knock it for a cheap/big HP set up.


Those 5.3L motors can be had cheaper than the 90s explorer gt40p motors in the junk yards. Cam swap...and you're making respectable power.


Although the good gas mileage is prolly due to the .50 over drive the gm boys get.

 

[KamiKaziDK]

I had actually looked into putting a Ford Mod motor in my 65 before realizing it was WAY too much trouble, but yeah, that .5 o/d does wonders for fuel economy!