Best Suspension?

customcam

New Member
Apr 5, 2005
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Hi Guys really not an expert when it comes to suspension upgrades on a 67 fastback. Iv read up on Troys Fastforwrads Fastbacks suspension set up and like the stance of the car.What do u guys think of that set up?
Is there better way to go? for same money or little more
Thers just so many companies Tcp/Fatman/AirRideTech/Martz/Heidts etc
Advice would be great thanks guys :nice:
 
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I'd stay away from all the high-dollar crap, but that's just me.

Here's my formula:
1" front sway bar, ($100) KYB GR2 shocks, ($100/set) 480# 1" drop springs ($67), shelby drop, (free) export brace, ($60) montecarlo bar ($25), Moog Improved Idler arm ($60), opentrackerracing perches ($230), StreetorTrack strut rods, ($300), GlobalWest subframe connectors, ($150) and a steeringbox rebuild by stangerssite ($150).

If you think that's a lot, consider that a set of GW control arms are $1k+ for UCA & LCAs. So it could be worse :D
 
5.0ina66 said:
I'd stay away from all the high-dollar crap, but that's just me.

Here's my formula:
1" front sway bar, ($100) KYB GR2 shocks, ($100/set) 480# 1" drop springs ($67), shelby drop, (free) export brace, ($60) montecarlo bar ($25), Moog Improved Idler arm ($60), opentrackerracing perches ($230), StreetorTrack strut rods, ($300), GlobalWest subframe connectors, ($150) and a steeringbox rebuild by stangerssite ($150).

If you think that's a lot, consider that a set of GW control arms are $1k+ for UCA & LCAs. So it could be worse :D
I look at the incremental cost of things. On my 68 I'm going to have to rebuild the suspension anyway, its not THAT much more to do something like the TCP coilover. The kit does come with a lot....coilovers, upper/lower control arms, strut rods, etc. I could spend $2500 and get that, or I could spend around $1500 and have a setup similar to stock but with upgraded components and still have the stock upper and lower control arms.
 
unless you are going racing, stay away from the high buck suspension systems. my plan for my 66 coupe is;

1: modified stock upper arms much like opentracker does his.

2: reinforced lower arms with spherical bearings.

3: adjustable strut rods again with a spherical bearing at the chassis end.

4: 1 1/8" front bar with a 3/4" rear bar.

5: 540# front springs.

6: subframe connectors with stringers running to the rocker panels, and a center cage much like what tcp did.

7: the rear suspension is up in the air right now, but most likely it will end up being 5 leaf leaf springs.

8: kyb gas shocks all around.

9: 15x7 wheels with 205/60-15 tires, or i might go with a 225/60-15.
 
5.0ina66 said:
I'd stay away from all the high-dollar crap, but that's just me.

Here's my formula:
1" front sway bar, ($100) KYB GR2 shocks, ($100/set) 480# 1" drop springs ($67), shelby drop, (free) export brace, ($60) montecarlo bar ($25), Moog Improved Idler arm ($60), opentrackerracing perches ($230), StreetorTrack strut rods, ($300), GlobalWest subframe connectors, ($150) and a steeringbox rebuild by stangerssite ($150).

If you think that's a lot, consider that a set of GW control arms are $1k+ for UCA & LCAs. So it could be worse :D
I have the 1", GR2s, 620 drop springs, export, monte, and subframes, where can I get the other stuff?
Also, do the 408#ers make a diff over the 620s? I would imagine it would ride better? I also have a rear sway, should I remove that?
 
focker67, the 480# springs will ride better than the 620's(some say alot better), and may even help the handling of the car as the tires can follow the road more easily than with stiffer springs. i am going to use the 540# springs because i am also going to use a 351w based engine in my stang.

historic, the aftermarket suspension systems will usually have more adjustability than a beefed up stock suspension like you are running, though not much in most cases, and it will be easier to adjust than yours is. however knowing the results you have gotten, it just proves that you dont need to spend a ton of money to win at the track. you do however need to science out your combination, and test, test, test. and when you are done testing, test some more.

oh and while testing keep copius notes on what worked and what didnt, and dont be afraid to go back and try something that didnt work, but in a different combination, cause that might work better.
 
Focker67 said:
where can I get the other stuff?
I listed all the company names next to the parts. The Shelby drop is a DIY thing, and the MOOG arm is available at AutoZone.

Your kidneys will probably appreciate the 480#, and I'd yank the rear bar, too much of an oppertunity for the handling to get wierd with one.
HTH
--Kyle
 
There are different Improved arms for PS & MS, be sure to give AutoZoo the right MOOG # so they have less of a chance of screwing it up :D Opentracker has posted the correct MOOG #s here before, do a search for moog & Opentracker. :D NPD sells the 480# for $67.
HTH
--KQ
 
Can anyone verify that K8158 is the correct Moog part # for a 67 with PS?

Also, I don't see a 480# for 67, Do you think dropping the 620s for the 550s is worth the money? I guess if i do the perches and have them out anyway? :shrug:

Guys, I have missed so much in the past three years so I am trying to catch up. Thanks for all of your help!
 
k8161_on_top_k8158_on_bottom_text.jpg


That's the one. The #480 spring will work in any Mustang from '65-'73.

John