Best year for a donor 302EFI AOD 8.8

Jester67

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Sep 21, 2004
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At some point I would like to get a 302 with EFI, AOD maybe an 8.8 or at leas the rear disc brakes for my car. I’m thinking that it might be cheaper and easer to just buy a car and get the parts I want that way. I would prefer not to cut up a mustang unless that is by far my best choice but I was thinking Crown Vic or Explorer. What do you guys think would be the better choice and what year is better and why?
 
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Get '89 and later. Before '89 used a Speed Density computer which doesn't handle mods well (particularly hotter cams). '89 and later used the MAF computer which is a learning computer and adjusts to whatever mods you throw at it.

I know this because I am currently in the process of swapping out the SD computer on my '88 GT in favor of a MAF computer.

The other option of course is to do a MegaSquirt EFI system in which case this point is irrelevant.
 
I think 93 up uses hypers instead of forged pistons. If you get too new your AOD will be an AODE. Fox rears are the right length for a 67, but don't use disk brakes. 94-95 rears have disk, but are 1.5" longer than a 67. You can put 95 brakes on a fox 8.8 with a $150 dollar bracket or buy a 94-95 8.8, ranger axles and special brackets. In a nutshell the parts you want come on different cars.
 
The sleeper for a 5.0 HO right now is an 87-up Lincoln Mark VII. You get the 5.0 HO and the AOD. They have 8.8's too, but in addition to being a 4 link suspension, it's also air ride too. 8.8 that's closest to being a bolt in is an Explorer/Mountaineer rear. Close, but still needs mods to work (welding) as a bonus most Explorer rears have traction-loc and 31 spline axles, some have discs brakes. No 8.8 will bolt right in. As for other 5.0's ? Any 88-up 5.0 will be a roller block. The cars got roller cams but the trucks & vans didn't get em till about 92 (they still had roller blocks before, but flat tappet cams). The 94-97 pickup and van 5.0 is a real sleeper. These had the hottest roller cam for 5.0 aside from the GT/HO. This cam is just a step below the GT/HO in specs, and will equal the HO cam's lift with 1.7 rockers. Same heads as the GT/HO too. Watch the 91-up rods in them, they're not what they were before. Seen two that broke rods in stock applications, these both had F1TE rods. Cranks are better castings than the older ones though, they quality is so good, they damn near look like forgings. Bottom line is, any 87-up 5.0 is a good foundation for a build up, aside from the later rods.
 
GNN60GT500 said:
Get the 89-92 they are mass air cars-

The 93 went to the weaker hyper pistons-
Nothing wrong with running hypereutectics. Unless you're gong to spray it or supercharge it. I ran a set in an "el cheapo" factory reman short block with Canfield heads, a Vic Jr., B303 roller with 1.7 rockers. All I did to the short block was swap the rod bolts for ARP's. ( did it with it assembled too) This one was subjected to daily 7500 rpm freeway blast's for 4 months, after a year of 6500 daily blasts with E7 heads. In the end, it cracked a cylinder wall. The Silvolite pistons and reman'd rods held up fine.:nice: Hyper's with their tighter piston to wall clearances will handle more than what most people think.
 
D.Hearne said:
The sleeper for a 5.0 HO right now is an 87-up Lincoln Mark VII. You get the 5.0 HO and the AOD. They have 8.8's too, but in addition to being a 4 link suspension, it's also air ride too. 8.8 that's closest to being a bolt in is an Explorer/Mountaineer rear. Close, but still needs mods to work (welding) as a bonus most Explorer rears have traction-loc and 31 spline axles, some have discs brakes. No 8.8 will bolt right in. As for other 5.0's ? Any 88-up 5.0 will be a roller block. The cars got roller cams but the trucks & vans didn't get em till about 92 (they still had roller blocks before, but flat tappet cams). The 94-97 pickup and van 5.0 is a real sleeper. These had the hottest roller cam for 5.0 aside from the GT/HO. This cam is just a step below the GT/HO in specs, and will equal the HO cam's lift with 1.7 rockers. Same heads as the GT/HO too. Watch the 91-up rods in them, they're not what they were before. Seen two that broke rods in stock applications, these both had F1TE rods. Cranks are better castings than the older ones though, they quality is so good, they damn near look like forgings. Bottom line is, any 87-up 5.0 is a good foundation for a build up, aside from the later rods.

i was just fixing to say 1998 Mountaineer...

explorer has 3.55 trac lock....mountaineer has 3.73 traction lock..

overall the 1997-98 mountaineer is the best for a complete driveline/motor swap....has all the parts you are talking about
 
65fastback2+2 said:
i was just fixing to say 1998 Mountaineer...

explorer has 3.55 trac lock....mountaineer has 3.73 traction lock..

overall the 1997-98 mountaineer is the best for a complete driveline/motor swap....has all the parts you are talking about
The gear ratio is pot luck. The Explorer rear I've got under my 89 Ranger has 3.73's.
 
If you get it from a stang go 89-93 for MAF, but stay away from 94/5 due to programming problems when performance is in mind.

My ex's explorer had a "tow package" when we bought it (1 size bigger tires, trans cooler, 3.73 rear) so that may be the source of multiple ratios for the explorers...

Good luck,
DD
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