black smoke exhaust and fuel smell in oil please help

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by fordracingfan, May 30, 2004.


  1. fordracingfan

    fordracingfan New Member

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    smoking exhaust, fuel mixture way rich and some relay/sensor bad?!?!

    I just bought an 87 5.0 LX a week ago. When I bought it there was a lot of fuel in the oil and the seller told me it was because the car had sat and due to being flooded trying ot get it started. I changed the oil and was setting the timing yesterday and pulled out the oil dipstick and on a hunch smelled it. It is starting to smell like fuel again. I pulled the plugs and they were covered with carbon so i cleaned them and put them back in.
    The black smoke out of the exhaust is constant.
    I have looked around on the net and things seem to point to a leaky fuel injector as the cause of my problem.
    Any suggestions?
    I was told black smoke isn't as big of an alarm as white or blue smoke would be.
    #1
  2. bmorrisj

    bmorrisj Member

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    if it was a leaky injector, it would just leak in to the cylinder and get blown out and pop in the exhaust..... maybe the piston rings are totally worn and fuel is getting below the piston into the oil......
    #2
  3. fordracingfan

    fordracingfan New Member

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    thanks...
    ouch that sucks...
    guess i got screwed on this deal
    :notnice: :bang:
    #3
  4. cardudeusa

    cardudeusa Founding Member

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    That would explain the somke also. Fuel and oil could be getting past the rings, in opposite directions of course.
    #4
  5. fordracingfan

    fordracingfan New Member

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    thanks for the info guys...how hard and expensive are rings to change?
    #5
  6. cardudeusa

    cardudeusa Founding Member

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    You'd have to pull the motor. Pretty much a cheep rebuild.
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  7. fordracingfan

    fordracingfan New Member

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    thanks for the info...anyone know the best place to get rings?
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  8. sublime29

    sublime29 New Member

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    Hello! I don't think you need rings.jeezzzz.If the car is blowin black smoke it is fuel related.You should ckeck the egr valve.Since you just got the car do a major tune up.You have no idea when it was done last and if the plugs were dirty its time.Get fuel filter,cap,rotor wires(if needed),plugs(maybe one step up hotter if alot of miles),oil,filter,and air filter.Start by setting timing before changing anythin then check it when you are done.Back to the smoke if it were bue in color you would need rings.Oil would make its way up into the chamber before fuel got in your oil.Oil normaly smells like gas a little.Always run a code scanner when you do a tune up.If you don't got one get one when you get your tune up parts they are 30-40 bucs. Later sub
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  9. fordracingfan

    fordracingfan New Member

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    K, thanks sub...replaced the fuel filter, oil, oil filter when i got the car. Will do the rest and see what happens
    #9
  10. SmockDoiley

    SmockDoiley New Member

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    I agree, you guys are retarded for thinking its rings. Rings would create blue not black smoke. Its obviously just running too rich and when that happens it washes down the cylinder walls and gets past the rings. Check codes and see what your A/F ratio is. You can either get a gauge or get it dynoed. Once you know these things then report back to us.
    #10
  11. ECU5.0

    ECU5.0 Banned

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    where is nc are you man?
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  12. fordracingfan

    fordracingfan New Member

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    I am in Fayetteville ECU and thanks guys...will go get a guage tomorrow and see what we have. I appreciate the help.
    #12
  13. fordracingfan

    fordracingfan New Member

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    do any of the major parts stores carry the code scanners/guages in stock?
    #13
  14. sublime29

    sublime29 New Member

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    All major auto parts stores have them.You will need the ford one.You will beable to run the code scanner you get on alot of different cars not just yours.They are nice and cheap to have.Read the proper way to test the car.You 1st do a Key On Engine Off then Key On Engine Running test.When you do the running test you have to do certain things in a sequence like turn wheel from lock to lock Wide Open Throttle ect.Go to pep boys parts america or a place like that.Get a vacuum tester too they are very cheap and you will have plenty of leaks and its nice when you set the timming.If you ever get a fuel pressure regulator that is one thing you will need.
    #14
  15. PRO50SC

    PRO50SC New Member

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    Oil normaly smells like gas a little :bs:
    Oil should never smell like there is gas in it. :nonono:
    #15
  16. cardudeusa

    cardudeusa Founding Member

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    OOPS... Guess I missed what color the smoke was. :doh:
    #16
  17. fordracingfan

    fordracingfan New Member

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    well i got the code scanner and wow...stuff looks nasty and are these codes right? I got the Actron code scanner but i saw online a slightly different set fo codes for mustang... :shrug:
    KOEO i got 23 (throttle postion signal out of range) and 82 (thermactor air circuit, integrated controller circuit, air management circuit 1)
    KOER i got 12 (idle speed control out of range); 21 (coolant temp sensor out of range)
    22 (MAP sensor out of range); 23 (throttle again); 42 and 92 (fuel mixture rich) and 33 EGR valve or canister
    I ordered the EGR valve online is there anything else i can do while i am waiting to see what my problem is?
    After I put the new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and air filter i noticed that some times the smoke shoots out of the tailpipes in bursts...that leads towards injectors right?
    Any info you guys have would be greatly appreciated
    Thanks guys
    #17
  18. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Code 23 - Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high - TPS needs to be reset to below .99 volts at idle. Keep in mind that when you turn the idle screw to set the idle speed, you change the TPS setting.

    Code 21 – ECT sensor out of range. Broken or damaged wiring, bad ECT sensor. Note that that if the outside air temp is below 50 degrees F that the test for the ECT can be in error.

    ACT & ECT test data:

    The ACT & ECT have the same thermistor, so the table values are the same

    Pin 7 on the computer - ECT signal in. at 176 degrees F it should be .80 volts

    Pin 25 on the computer - ACT signal in. at 50 degrees F it should be 3.5 volts. It is a good number if the ACT is mounted in the inlet airbox. If it is mounted in the lower intake manifold, the voltage readings will be lower because of the heat transfer. Here's the table :

    68 degrees F = 3.02 v
    86 degrees F = 2.62 v
    104 degrees F = 2.16 v
    122 degrees F = 1.72 v
    140 degrees F = 1.35 v
    158 degrees F = 1.04 v
    176 degrees F = .80 v
    194 degrees F = .61

    Ohms measures at the computer with the computer disconnected, or at the sensor with the sensor disconnected.
    50 degrees F = 58.75 K ohms
    68 degrees F = 37.30 K ohms
    86 degrees F = 27.27 K ohms
    104 degrees F = 16.15 K ohms
    122 degrees F = 10.97 K ohms
    140 degrees F = 7.60 K ohms
    158 degrees F = 5.37 K ohms
    176 degrees F = 3.84 K ohms
    194 degrees F = 2.80 K ohms

    Code 22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range. The MAP or BARO sensor is pretty much the same sensor for both Mass Air & Speed Density cars. The main difference is where it is connected. Mass Air cars vent it to the atmosphere, while Speed Density cars connect it to the intake manifold vacuum. Its purpose is to help set a baseline for the air/fuel mixture and changes in barometric pressure. The MAP or BAP sensor puts out a 5 volt square wave that changes frequency with variations in atmospheric pressure. The base is 154 HZ at 29.92" of mercury - dry sunny day at sea level, about 68-72 degrees. You need an oscilloscope or frequency meter to measure it.

    Baro or MAP test using frequency meter - run the test key on engine off. The noise from the ignition system will likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout.

    If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer

    Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
    Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

    See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

    A bad MAP or ECT will cause the mixture to run rich. The MAP is not easy to test if you don't have access to the needed test equipment.

    I would check the ground (black/white wire) on the ACT & MAP to make sure it isn't broken. You should see less than 1.5 ohms between the black/white wire and the battery ground.
    #18
  19. sublime29

    sublime29 New Member

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    Start to fix the codes starting with the 1st one given 1st and then after each one you replace or fix reset the computer and run code scanner again.Often times one sensor with throw off the other sensors.
    #19
  20. fordracingfan

    fordracingfan New Member

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    I just had a baby and just now got a chance to work on the car again. I don't understand how to do those tests very well. I am going to try to do them right now. Just not sure how to work them out.
    I found a relay under the steering column inside the car that is burnt out.
    The part number is E7ZB-8C609-AA OKC. I am not sure what it is for. I found a replacement part at autozone but I can't figure out what the relay is for.
    It is a black rectangle with a circuit board male piece that is burnt.
    Any idea what it is?
    thanks
    #20

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