Blew two alternators, what's the problem????

[GToddyT5]

I blew two of these crap rebuilt Advance Auto Palladium alternators in a day. What is the problem? The pulley size that came with the alternator was different than my pulley, so I had to use my pulley, which is a F4RU-A1A. What's the problem? I'm getting frustrated.

 

[urban96]

make sure the wiring is good

 

[HISSIN50]

I blew two of these crap rebuilt Advance Auto Palladium alternators in a day.

Um, you might want to reword all that stuff - it um reads a little bit like you have some strange hobbies.

Seriously, provide more info about what is happening and how the alts are bench testing (before and after install).

Good luck.

 

[GToddyT5]

Pretty simple really, they function normally for a while, and then crap out after about 20 mins. They just stop charging the battery. Then I took them to Auto Zone and had them tested and both failed.

 

[mo_dingo]

Yeah that doesn't make sense.

Everything about the alternator is output, except the small wire that feeds the coil. Make sure you have 12V there.

How is the battery? Have you done a specific gravity test on it?
Scott

 

[bill302]

i had the same thing happen on my escort and i wen't to an alternator shop and had one built it was 30 dollars less than the advance alternator that blew twice and it has run for 3 years and just last week i replaced the voltage regulator mounted on the side of the alternator because the battery light illuminated and its good to go again....

 

[HISSIN50]

A large variable for me is parts store alts. I've gone through several in a row (had a couple bad right out of the box). This can make you insane when troubleshooting.

I always have new alts bench tested a couple times to make sure they work. It's funny to see the look on the guy's face when their new (unsold) alt fails.

Good luck.

 

[GToddyT5]

tomorrow I'm gonna go there with my batt, have them charge it. Then I'm gonna exchange the alternators, test the new one there, and install it. Then come back and get my batt, so they know it's fully charged. Other than that, I dunno what else I can do.

 

[GToddyT5]

OK, so I went to Advance today...a different one. They tested my alternator and it tested good. This guy told me he knows what he's doing and that they may not have at Autozone. Anyway, since it tested good, what's my problem? Is this now an ignition problem? Is something overheating and then stopping the ignition from functioning?

I'll just describe what happens when mystery part fails. The car is sitting there idling, then the voltage starts to drop and the car stalls. It'll start back after a sputter and then die again. Does anybody have an idea of what's going on? I'm really annoyed here. BTW, I do have a check engine light on. But at this point I can't drive anywhere to get the codes scanned.

 

[94-302-vert]

Spend the extra $$ and get a NEW alternator... I too have heard many horror stories about the rebuilts not being worth the box they came in...

 

[1TallMF]

I smell a dead battery. If the alternator crapped out, the car should have been able to run off the battery for a good while. But I'm still stumped as to why the alternator would go that fast... There could be a short somewhere thats drawing a ton of current, frying the alternator and killing the battery fast as soon as the alternator quits. In what kind of condition is the charge cable coming from the alternator? They are known to decay at our car's age. If you get another alternator on there, check to see if any of the cables (charge cable, positive battery cable, ground cable) are getting ridiculously hot (be careful) when the car's running.
But then again, I don't trust rebuilt alternators any more than I trust a psychopath holding a meat cleaver. Hope you get 'er figured out.

 

[donkey_punch]

find out the code that the check engine light is throwing. that will give you a place to start.

 

[HISSIN50]

Was the battery tested while at the parts store? A bad battery can mimic the symptoms of a dead alternator.

The battery light doesnt come on, right?

You mentioned before that it takes 20 mins for it to crap out. That means when the alt and wiring (etc) is cool, it works alright (till you reach 20 mins). And the conditions while bench testing were likely as they are when the alt works for you (you'd need to let the alt get all hot and poopy and then have it tested).

I agree about the code (though it might actually be from the charge issue). You need but a paperclip to yank codes.

If chasing wiring, peel back the wire loom on the regulator wiring. Look for vulcanized wires - they get really baked and the insulation comes off).

Good luck.

 

[Pokageek]

I have had the same problem with rebuilds. Had 2 blow. Never again.

 

[GToddyT5]

Today the battery tested good, and received a full charge while at Advance.

Yes, the battery light did come on when it stalled. The voltmeter started dropping, the batt light came on, and it stalled.

Now as far as yesterday, when I took the same alternator to Autozone it was still very hot, and it failed. The same alternator this morning at Advance passed with flying colors.

I found the instructions for pulling the codes w/o a scanner, but this looks cumbersome, because I know I'm gonna have quite a few, because my CE light has been on for a while. Where is the cheapest place to get a handheld scanner?

 

[bill302]

click on link below...
http://www.muscularmustangs.com/test1.php

 

[urban96]

hows your engine ground look? maybe try running another one along with the stocker

 

[GToddyT5]

I'll take a look. I had zero problems before putting on these Advance alternators. My motorcraft one was fine, zero issues.

 

[bill302]

Today the battery tested good, and received a full charge while at Advance.

Yes, the battery light did come on when it stalled. The voltmeter started dropping, the batt light came on, and it stalled.

Now as far as yesterday, when I took the same alternator to Autozone it was still very hot, and it failed. The same alternator this morning at Advance passed with flying colors.

I found the instructions for pulling the codes w/o a scanner, but this looks cumbersome, because I know I'm gonna have quite a few, because my CE light has been on for a while. Where is the cheapest place to get a handheld scanner?

Where is the cheapest place to get a handheld scanner?
wal-mart...in the automotive section above the spark plugs i think they cost about $30..

 

[GToddyT5]

OK, I reinstalled the alternator and let it idle for about ten mins. Then I drove it around for a half hour with out any issues. I guess it had somethign to do with the battery being a little low. However, if my batt happens to die in the parking lot one day, does that mean this alternator is gonna get too hot and crap out again?