Blew two alternators, what's the problem????

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the bad bulb could be the problem but a diode is in line with that circuit not a resistor
the diode acts as a check valve for electricity
check the bulb and the diode

Again, there is a resistor, and the resistor is in parallel with the bulb. if the idiot bulb burned out, the resistor saves the day.

I was not discussing a run-on diode.
 
Also, I went and swapped my battery in my wife's bullit and on her gauge it shows really well and fully charged. On mine, it shows right on the "N" in normal. really low.

This test isn't super useful. It showed that your wife's alternator works well. Now if your wife had a 3G alt like ours, and you swapped alts and yours worked in her car, that would really point to a wiring issue in your car.

Good luck.
 
Well, I got tired of tinkering with this problem so I broke down and took it to the dealership. They told me that I needed a motorcraft alternator and a new plug. I told them that I have ran through 3 alternators (1 stock, 2 rebuilt that were motorcraft). Now I have a BRAND NEW powermaster. I told them to just replace the plug and see what happens then. I think they just want me to buy an alternator from them. What do you think?
 
I'd ask if their suggestion was a guess or a solution (whether or not they admit it, they will know what you mean by this).

It sure sounds like a guess, which gets real expensive. A little bit of diagnostic work would be nice when you take your car in.
 
Well I got my car back from the dealership. It took 3.5 straight hours for them to figure out the problem. It turned out to be the 3 wire plug that plugged into the back of the alternator. It had become corroded and what not. Also, they said that I had a bad ground. So they replaced the plug and relocated the ground. Problem fixed. total cost -1 hour labor (I have a friend :D ) $176.56 :eek:
 
I had a feeling the reg plug and wiring might be bad (personal experience there). I hope I remembered to post to inspect it on your Corral thread (I think I did in my first post over there - it's a standard response from me).

The extra motor ground is always a good idea - it's good that you have one now. Or if they just cleaned or moved the OEM ground, sometime if you're bored, add yet another one. I used a 4 AWG cable that mimics the braided strap on the driver's side (but mine is on the passenger side. It goes from the motor to the frame rail).

All in all, that was a cheap bill from the dealer. And you're up and running again. :nice:
 
After I thought about it, I hadn't drove the car since I had the accessory brackets powder coated. Do you think thi may have affected the ground problem?

Absolutely. You need to sand down the contacts points in the bracket mount so the mount isnt insulated. Alternatively, I suppose you could use a 2 AWG cable from the alternator case to a clean chassis grounding point.
 
If i was you i would check your positive(+) cable that goes to your alternator for any breaks. You might be better off to install a brand-new positive cable from your alternator straight to your battery. . I've done it many times and It hasn't failed me yet. If it doesn't. If its not fixed you need to check all your positive wires. Starter, fuse panel, and if you have an aftermarket stereo, check it cuz ive seen idiots catch their car on fire because of their inexperience in wiring. Good luck
 
If i was you i would check your positive(+) cable that goes to your alternator for any breaks. You might be better off to install a brand-new positive cable from your alternator straight to your battery. . I've done it many times and It hasn't failed me yet. If it doesn't. If its not fixed you need to check all your positive wires. Starter, fuse panel, and if you have an aftermarket stereo, check it cuz ive seen idiots catch their car on fire because of their inexperience in wiring. Good luck

It's been more than 12 years since this thread was created. I sure hope he wasn't waiting for an answer. :oops:
 
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