bought used motor... now what sould i do to it?

t3-svo

New Member
Apr 18, 2005
76
0
0
Mooresville NC
i have just recently acquired a new motor, trans, and turbo. I am looking at rebuild ing the motor. i am looking at increasing the horsepower. Can anyone name what pistons, rings, head, and such internals i should go with for some good power, but remember that my money doesn't grow on trees!

Is forged internals really necesary and what about a boost cooler?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


t3-svo said:
i have just recently acquired a new motor, trans, and turbo. I am looking at rebuild ing the motor. i am looking at increasing the horsepower. Can anyone name what pistons, rings, head, and such internals i should go with for some good power, but remember that my money doesn't grow on trees!

Is forged internals really necesary and what about a boost cooler?
What type of motor is this? The NA engine came with cast pistons, while all turbo engines got forged pistons. If this is a turbo engine, then do a stock rebuild. A stock rebuild is good for well over 300hp. You will have to check the specs on the engine, but often times you can get away with a re-ring kit. This will replace all the bearings, seals, gaskets and the rings.
If it is an NA engine, then you should either look for a turbo engine or plan on buying forged pistons and tapping the oil pan for a turbo oil return.
As for making more power... it isn't found in the shortblock. Look into increase airflow through the engine. Head porting, bigger turbo, front mount intercooler, big exhaust ect ect.
Don't forget, to control the turbo engine, you will need the turbo ECU with the associated injectors and air meter.
 
http://www.40bob.com/
Heads are more often done by yourself with a lot of time and research, or you can spent a ton and get one already ported. Make some goals and we can point you towards a good setup. goals in terms of cost, time, what you want to do with the car and let us know your skill level.
 
i am saving up the money as we speak. it may be a while before i really start to purchase anything. I am just asking this stuff to get a little research so i know what to look for when i want to get it. i am slowly going to work on the motor and hope fully get it done buy the this coming summer. For the setup i want it to be not too crazy. Just looking to beat some GT's that my friends have. They area around 280 rwhp and 300rwtq. I want to at least be close to them when racing them on the strip. I alreadty have some good tires so those are off the list . My skill level is pretty low. I do not have acess to the tools required to do the porting and stuf. I have a mechanics tool set to use.

Current mods on the car are:

New tubular header from Huron Alloys out of Canada
NEw Turbo T-3 .60, .48 internals 18 p.s.i. (20 max)
Cat back exhaust with flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Custom intake with K&N filter
Even shorter short shifter
Unplugged knock sensor

All of these modifications i have installed myself. (minus cat back, i do not have a welder)
 
I'd contact Bo (ratnovabo "at" aol.com) if you want to get your head ported. As far as I'm concerned, he's the premier 2.3 Turbo porter in the country. Tell him Stinger sent ya and he'll even make you a deal...

As for the shortblock, leave it stock...there are plenty of people making 400+hp with the stock crank,rods, pistons,etc.
 
88stang,
Bo did my head and he did an incredible job! I went with the Stage II + all the machining and a few other things. He sent it to me fully assembled and ready to go. He also installed a Ranger roller cam, that he provided. $700 shipped. Top notch work done by a great guy! Here's the email he sent me, with prices...........................


I offer 3 different "stages" of portwork. The more money you spend the
more flow the head will produce and make more power. I offer complete
machine shop services and use only state of the art machining equipment.
I am a dealer for Ferrea valves (the best in my opinion) and can get you
those at a discounted price. Depending on what you want to do, I can
sell you a completely assembled head that will be ready to bolt onto
your engine and ready to run right out of the box. Below I have listed
the various stages of portwork I can offer you.

Stage I: This is the best "bang for the buck" porting and the minimum I
offer. It includes complete reshaping the bowl areas of the head-intake
and exhaust-and some contouring of the valve guide boss. These areas are
by far the most flow inhibiting areas of the head in stock form and
respond well to reworking. This will produce great flow when used with a
stock or oversized valve. This is what I consider a mild portjob. Price
is $200

Stage II: Same as above, with the addition of full reshaping of the
valve guide bosses for superior flow. I also will unshroud the valves in
the combustion chamber area and cc match the chamber volumes to within
.2 cc'c. Price is $400

Stage III Once again same as the above with the addition of full porting
and reshaping of the intake and exhaust ports and combustion chambers.
This is a full port job. The exhaust ports are cnc machined out to my
specified diameter and are fully polished. The combustion chambers are
reworked extensively for optimum flow and flame travel and are then
fully polished as well. This level of work will flow just as well as an
out of the box esslinger D port aluminum head. It is designed to flow
well at moderate valve lift so you dont have to run a huge roller cam to
benefit from the flow potential of the ports, which you would have to do
with an aluminum head. Price is $550

These prices do not include any machining or valve work. Here's a run
down of what the average machining and assembly job includes. After the
head has been ported, the seats will be cut using a serdi multi angle
cutter on the intake side and a full radius cut on the exhaust side. I
use specially tailored cutters and seat angles to work with the flow of
the head, so you will be getting the best valve job I can offer. After
the valve job is performed, the head is then square decked or milled
with a DSM unit depending on how much chamber work is done to match the
combustion chamber volumes back down to where they should be stock for a
true 8:1 comp ratio. It is The head is then fully cleaned and depending
on what parts you supply is then assembled with or without cam. Spring
pressure is checked and HLA clearance is set. The price for this is
generally around $200 assuming there are no problems with the head you
supply.

If you have any more questions, just let me know. Thanks for the interest!

Bo