Ok my new engine has 10 miles on it. I had a few coolant leaks up top. So I took the upper intake off and tighened some coolant plugs. My lower intake bolts didnt seemed to be tightened all the way. So I put a torque wrench on them and tightened them to 16 ftlbs, like it says. I know the next spec is 23-25 ftlbs. so I did 20 and the bolt snapped. It is the front bolt on the passenger side. It is not a clean break. It is not flat. I tried to drill it, and easy out but it didnt work. Then again I only have a 12 volt drill. I have not started the car. Can I run the car like this? I really dont want to pull the lower unless I have to. I was thinking about taking it to a local shop to see if them have better tricks or tools to get it out. What do you guys think? Thanks
Broken Lower Intake Bolt
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pearlnotchback
5 Year Member
You may try pulling the intake back 0ff and if there is a little bit of the bolt still sticking out of the head grab it with a pair of vise grips and you might be able to spin it back out. Im not sure what bolts you were using but they sound kinda weak. I would change them. I run all ARP bolts have never broke one.
That front bolt is by the coolant passage. when the system pressurizes it could leak into the lifter valley. Not something I'd risk.
Pull the lower off and do it right... I run all stainless bolts on mine from the hardware store. The thread size is listed in the bolt index but I need to update the length to 2" not 2.5"
- Dec 19, 2010
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If the bolt is not loose enough to turn with vise grips, get a very small pipe wrench and slip a little cheater pipe over the handle. Pipe wrenches work better than any vise grip ever thought about. IF that doesn't work, use a torch and very gently heat the head around the bolt. This will cause the base metal to expand and let go of the bolt. Have the baby pipe wrench ready to go, this should do the trick. If there's not enough bolt left to grab you can grind the bolt flat, center punch it to keep the drill bit from walking and drill out the bolt. Don't try to drill on a ragged surface. If you can't do that, pull the head and take it to a machine shop. They'll know how to get it out.
Hope that helps..
Hope that helps..
Bolt extractor, best money I ever spent
I broke a timing cover bolt off and just a nub was hanging out. I thought I was going to have to take the motor out and to a machine shop. My dad bought me a set of these a while back. All I had to work with was a rusty nub. It grabbed on and took it out easily. Unlike a vise grip or pipe wrench, it grabs from all sides with equal pressure. Good luck.
I broke a timing cover bolt off and just a nub was hanging out. I thought I was going to have to take the motor out and to a machine shop. My dad bought me a set of these a while back. All I had to work with was a rusty nub. It grabbed on and took it out easily. Unlike a vise grip or pipe wrench, it grabs from all sides with equal pressure. Good luck.
Good news Guys. I got it out. I pulled the lower off. The bolt was in the head quite a bit. I hit it with a punch and it started to loosen. Then I hammered a small socket on the nub, and turned it with a ratchet and it came out. Thanks for all the help. I reordered a new set of 1262r fel pro's and arp bolts. I will change the oil when its all done. My only other question is the was a light coating of oil in the air ports in the head. I'm not sure what that could be from. Also I noticed that the engine builder used black rtv on the front and back of the intake and block. He also put a light bead around the water jackets. I guess I'll do the same.
68stang351
Founding Member
You might also run a tap through the holes just to make sure there's no trash in there that could also cause problems like that, as well as screw up torque readings.
pearlnotchback
5 Year Member
Oil its also used as a cheap assembly lube for proper torque values. I wouldn't read too much into it.
I like the setup but I haven't driven it enough. I only have about 10 miles on it. No pics yet. My trans issue was the block plate, which is the small piece of tin between the block and bellhousing was bent. So when the car was warm, it would expand and rub the flywheel. I put another plate in and cut out the center so nothing could hit. Problem solved
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