Broken motor mount, how difficult to replace with motor in car?

[jcode68]

I noticed my drivers side motor mount was broken today when changing the oil. The rubber part of the mount failed and is severely split. I want to replace both sides since they are the same age. How difficult is it to replace these with the motor in the car? Do I just need to replace the mount that bolts onto the motor or do they only come as a matched set with the frame mount as well? What is the best procedure to replace these? Car has Hooker Comp long tubes and power steering, so a bit tight to say the least.

 

[woodsnake]

I have had success replacing broken ones, one side at a time. You will either need a pry tool/lever/bar, or a floor jack and a block of wood. You only need enough clearance to get them in and out, not a mile of cushion space....

 

[mustangmike6996]

it should be a breeze. you can do one side at a time for ease of getting the motor to fall back into place. just toss a jack with a block of wood under the trans bellhousing and slowly jack the engine up after either side is unbolted. change the mount. slowly lower it and hand tighten the bolts. do the other side, repeat. once its sitting back in the mount brackets, make sure everything is lined up and then tighten all bolts.

 

[jcode68]

Thanks for the responses, seems pretty straight forward.

 

[rbohm]

i have also replaced motor mounts without removing the engine. it isnt a tough job, but it can be time consuming. one bit of advice, when you go to install the new mount, leave it loose until you drop the engine back on the mount, then tighten everything back up properly.

 

[jcode68]

Thanks again for the replies. I remembered that I had purchased a new set of motor mounts when I did my engine swap a few years ago (from stock 302 to 347) but when I tried to use them there was an issue, I want to say that the mounts caused the engine to sit too low in the engine bay, causing issues with either header interference or oil pan or both. So I ended up using the original motor mounts at the time so I could complete the installation. I dug around the shop and found the mounts that I purchased still new in the box. They are made by Pioneer, inc. and purchased from Mustangs Unlimited, here is the link:

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=2287+01

Anyone got some experience or advice with these mounts? I haven't pulled the old one yet to compare, but know if I had a problem before then I will have it again. I think I read where there are 2 versions where one fits coupe/fastback and the other convertibles and the convertibles sit higher. Help appreciated and if you have a link to the proper set, even better! I do not want to swap out the frame side mount.

 

[68conv5sp]

JCode, I had trouble finding the stock mounts for my 68 Vert - tried everything I could find with no match - too tall, too short, etc. I then paid the big bucks for Ron Morris mounts. They were easy to install, but most importantly I was able to adjust the engine front to back, side to side, and up/down (using the optional lowering plates). If you have a 347, you might be well served to have the strong RM mounts with all that torque.

 

[jcode68]

68Conv5spd, thanks for the advice. I have considered buying the Ron Morris adjustable mounts, but I don't really need the adjustability and feel it would just be a waste of money. I ordered a set today from NPD, hopefully they are the right ones. I saw some posts in the web about Mustangs Unlimited having the part numbers reversed for the coupe/FB mounts with e convertible. The poster raised this with Mustangs Unlimited and they blew him off and never changed the catalog listing. Hopefully NPD comes through, should get them in a few days and will install this weekend.

 

[67GTFB]

fwiw ... Glazier-Nolan tech srticles have a decent discussion of the variety of motor mounts for SB/BB across the years .... for a '67, this area is problematic and most suppliers do not have the correct mounts ....

 

[2+2GT]

The mm in the MU link is an ordinary 2257. The ones I saw at G/N a couple weeks ago looked like a better item. I have seen a lot shall we say inferior quality mounts which didn't fit anything correctly. Might not even be MU's fault, sometimes wholesalers substitute inferior items when they get a "better price".

And yes, G/N does offer a "correct" 67 mm, which was the 2286 (C7ZE). There are some vendors who offer the 2286, but no matter what it says on the box, it's a 2257 (C6OE). G/N makes the 2286 themselves, and it's a pain, but at least you get a correct mount.

The difference is not the height, which was actually the same either way, but the angle of the rubber insulator. This was done to avoid certain harmonic vibration in certain models. Don't ask me the details, the Ford engineer who walked me through it passed away a few years ago. All I remember is the why, but not the exact what.

Here's more info-

Mustang Smallblock V8 Motor Mounts

 

[67GTFB]

+1 on 2+2GT's comments .... I got "burned' with those 2257's even though I thought I was getting something else ....

 

[jcode68]

Good info, appreciate it. Hopefully I have my new mounts for this weekend and can get them installed. I will update this post with the outcome.

 

[jcode68]

New mounts arrived and I replaced them today without any problems. The broken mount was sheared clean through, wasn't doing jack to retain the engine on the drivers side. I used my motorcycle jack with a board on top to lift the engine under the oil pan, worked real good. Only other tip is you gain quite a bit of extra room by removing the oil filter. On to the next project...

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I dug around the shop and found the mounts that I purchased still new in the box. They are made by Pioneer, inc. and purchased from Mustangs Unlimited, here is the link:

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=2287 01

Anyone got some experience or advice with these mounts?

Not with those mounts in particular, but I put some in my '68 that look the same. They came with the car and were 10+ years old when I put them in. After about two or three years and maybe 2500mi, they started separating and I got a clutch shudder. I pulled them out and did the "through-bolt mod" or whatever it's called and now they seem more reminiscent of captive urethane mounts and the shudder is gone.