Bullitt Engine Heads And Intake Swap On 98 GT

[karskrazy]

Well guys I am trying to decide what to do here and welcome suggestions and any info you may have on this. I have a "complete pan to intake" 2001 Bullitt engine sitting in my garage with only 3,000 miles on it. It was removed by the dealer because the customer had complained of a cold engine knock in the lower end. I am told that the late model ( 99 & Up) 4.6 engines have had some wrist pin problems causing this noise.

My question is do I go thru the lower end or just install all the upper engine pieces on my engine that has no problems and only about 55K miles on it. I know this change will really up the HP and have waited about a year and half trying to decide what to do. I was also thinking about selling the car and getting a newer car , but I really do like the older bodystyle and I have a really great looking ride, even if I say so myself !! Let me know what you think the best choice would be. Thanks Kars

 

[edwardohaskillo]

Hmm...I don't know the dealer, but I would think if the engine was pulled and replaced under warranty, there is probably something seriously wrong, or the previous owner is a major "squeaky wheel". I can't imagine how much a brand new bullitt motor would cost.

Initially I was thinking, "just swap motors and run her til she falls, then strip the parts and put 'em on your original motor." Even if you gernade the engine, the bullitt intake would probably survive. The heads surviving, I'm not so sure about.

Consider pulling the pan and "plasti-gaging" the journals, and big ends of the rods. Granted, this would tell you nothing about the wrist pins, but it would be a cheap and relatively painfree way of getting info before the decision. however, I would think usually the little end of the rods would be the "knocker"

I still wonder why they would pull an intact motor and replace it with so little miles.

Something about that bullitt motor scares me...


Jim

 

[stangman]

well if a power adder is in your future, i would go through the engine & install the whole longblock, due to compression reasons. but if your going to stay n/a, do the swap for sure

 

[karskrazy]

Hmm...I don't know the dealer, but I would think if the engine was pulled and replaced under warranty, there is probably something seriously wrong, or the previous owner is a major "squeaky wheel". I can't imagine how much a brand new bullitt motor would cost.

Initially I was thinking, "just swap motors and run her til she falls, then strip the parts and put 'em on your original motor." Even if you gernade the engine, the bullitt intake would probably survive. The heads surviving, I'm not so sure about.

Consider pulling the pan and "plasti-gaging" the journals, and big ends of the rods. Granted, this would tell you nothing about the wrist pins, but it would be a cheap and relatively painfree way of getting info before the decision. however, I would think usually the little end of the rods would be the "knocker"

I still wonder why they would pull an intact motor and replace it with so little miles.

Something about that bullitt motor scares me...


Jim

Well to keep this correct , the engine actually only had 3,843 miles according to a copy of the original repair invoice I have and the total warranty replacement cost was $4800 and some change !!! It also shows the customer (A WOMAN) complained of cold engine knock. You know what they say about a woman scorned !!!

Before I bought this engine I had read in the forums a thread somewhere about this problem called the "death knock" or whatever that let me know more about this problem so I was not really surprised when I saw the reason it was replaced.

I too was surprised at this scenario but this was also probably from someone that was a real PITA and Ford did it to make them (her) happy. I am sure after paying sticker price or above for the Bullitt she sure didn't want someone going into the engine at 3000 mi, which I can also relate to.

Anyway I thought just to save a little aggrivation I would just swap the parts from the heads up. Also I was waiting until Ford got the new Mach 1 in production so I could gt the correct brackets for the throttle cables and stuff to use on an automatic car like mine and not the stick like in all the Bullitt cars.

I sure would love to get this swap done as I can hardly wait to feel the higher HP. It should really be a kick with the other mods I have already done which include, 4.10 gears, pullies ( cant use them on this engine, it came with those anyway) O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters,and a K&N filter. I figure with my gears this car will really be kick to drive !!

I agree with your suggestion on checking the bottom end but I sure hate to pull the heads and stuff to remove a few rods to check for this problem on the wrist pin ends too. According to the invoice date of 12/01 this problem may really not be much of anything , as a lot of cars have a slight knock in winter colder temps on startup until the oil temp rises. I had a 02 Trans Am ( LOL ! ) that did that too and was not even noticable and as soon as it warmed up a min or two.

I may just risk it and install the entire engine assy and see what happens. I really don't think it would hurt anything unless it actually really has a bad hard knock and from what everyone has told me it is really easier to replace the engine assy than to try and install the heads in the car anyway. I guess at the worst case scenario I may lose some labor time doing the swap if it doesn't pan out.

Anyway thanks for the reply and if anyone knows more about this cold engine knock problem or what causes it please let me know. Thanks Kars

 

[edwardohaskillo]

Well, duh! I guess the engines are a little cheaper, AT COST!

As that country song I heard the other day says, "whut wuz ah thankin'?"

I'd definately just swap 'em then.

I no longer fear the engine, nor the gear!

 

[karskrazy]

Well, duh! I guess the engines are a little cheaper, AT COST!

As that country song I heard the other day says, "whut wuz ah thankin'?"

I'd definately just swap 'em then.

I no longer fear the engine, nor the gear!

I hear ya !! I thought the added info may help you see my point as far as trying it "As-Is". The sad part is I have a complete clutch assy I don't even need still on the engine. A good thing though is the correct alt and bracketry are still attached as well along with all pulleys and everything else including the engine wiring harness. It looks like they just undone the tranny and pulled it out and stuck a whole new assy in the car including a/c comp and all. I just hope everything hooks up ok in my car. So you also agree it is worth the gamble now ?? Thanks Kars

 

[karskrazy]

well if a power adder is in your future, i would go through the engine & install the whole longblock, due to compression reasons. but if your going to stay n/a, do the swap for sure

When you say power adders are you referring to NOS or Charger maybe ??

I really planned on just leaving it pretty stock but did consider having the intake polished and port matched to the heads, but that was about all I had planned on doing, as this will be a daily driver and I want it to stay together and live for a long time yet !! I am just after a little more punch, not to get in the 10 sec qtr mile range !!! HEHE!! I do assume I will have to get a new chip for my car once this swap is done and someone to tune it correctly afterwards. I sure hope there is someone around here SE Texas to do that for me. A dyno test would probably really be helpful.

ANY suggestions on getting a little more HP out of this engine by just changing say TB , Injectors, MAF or whatever over the OE Bullitt parts that won't cost a fortune and be reliable and practical ?? Thanks Kars

 

[stangman]

When you say power adders are you referring to NOS or Charger maybe ??

ANY suggestions on getting a little more HP out of this engine by just changing say TB , Injectors, MAF or whatever over the OE Bullitt parts that won't cost a fortune and be reliable and practical ?? Thanks Kars

yeah, i was referring to a s/c or a turbo actually, but the same can go for the no2. the 96-98 have more of a flat top piston, & the 99+ have a little more dish to the piston, along with a better combustion chamber, which lower compression. if you have a 96-98 you either need to switch pistons, or make changes to the combustion chamber; i.e: remove swirl dams, to lower the compression ratio.
and while your switching things out get some longtube headers you won't regret it

 

[68 & 00 GT]

That what I'd do. Swap the entire engine and see how bad / good the Bullit engine is. That shouldn't be too difficult to do vs. pulling that engine apart, and yours to make one that will have too high compression to run a s/c if you choose to later. Besides if you ever want to sell (or maybe consider using)that Bullit short block if you end up only using the heads / intake on your current engine you'll want to know the condition of what your selling. If that engine ends up sounding bad don't run it too long, and risk ruining the PI heads.

Kinda depends on if you plan to stay n/a or add a power adder eventually. But I'm sure you could put lower compression ratio pistons in your short block while your at it if you wanted to add a s/c. Of course with that you kinda defeat part of the purpose of adding the Bullit / PI heads so you may as well add forged rods, and crank to prepare for a monster engine. Just depends on where you're going with this to meet you RWHP needs -

 

[edwardohaskillo]

When I wrote of plasti-gaging the bottom, I meant turning the engine upside down, Unbuttoning the pan, and Plasti-gaging the journals and big ends. No heads to pull, no major disassembly.

Probably a waste of time...

Those intakes aren't cheap, so careful w/ the porting.

One of the best looking modern body styles, with one of the best looking modular engines...too sweet!

 

[KJ Hoppus]

i would swap the heads and intake onto your old motor, the increase in compression is going to give you some extra power. also consider porting the heads and maybe some cams. All that and full exaust should give you at least 300rwhp. thats what i would do

 

[jimfitzgerald]

i would swap the heads and intake onto your old motor, the increase in compression is going to give you some extra power. also consider porting the heads and maybe some cams. All that and full exaust should give you at least 300rwhp. thats what i would do

This is what I would do, as step one. Later, when you feel like, put forged internals into the Bullitt short block and reinstall it into your car. Get the heads ported and polished, port match the Bullitt intake and get cams and longtube headers. Then, when you're ready again, put on a blower.

 

[karskrazy]

Bullitt Engine Swap

Thanks guys for all of the suggestions. I do think I may just go ahead and install this engine, but before I do, I really think I will spring for the machine work on the heads and intake beforehand. Also since I will be into it that far I may pull a couple of pistons and just check them for excess play in the pin and crank area before going on into the car with it. I also do wonder though if it would be better using the original short block in my car now verses the newer block because of the compression ratio difference. Would I lose any horsepower if I don't, ya think ?? I guess the extra machine work would probably make up for it anyway and also make it run easier on a little lower octane gas if I leave the new short block attached. What are your thoughts on this idea ?? Also what do you think will need to be done to the computer after this change over and who and where can I get that done at a reasonable cost somewhere near me ( SW AR) ? Thanks Kars

 

[LuvNLife]

One other quick thought: Why not advertise the complete engine assembly over at the Bullitt website (www.imboc.com), and see what kind of money you could score for it. You never know, but that piece could be worth quite a bit to one of them if they grenaded their original engine. Then take the cash, and buy a complete late GT engine, computer, fuel system and all for yours.

Jerry