cable or hydraulic clutch for T-5

  • Sponsors (?)


I'm installing a 5.0 and T-5 in a '65, modern drive line has both, wich is the better set up, what are the pros and cons of both?
Thanks

Cable clutch is less complicated to install and adjust - hydraulic clutch is easier on the leg.

Cables also tend to have problems with routing around headers. If I had it to do over again, I'd do a hydraulic clutch.
 
I have been through what you are going through, trying to decide, but I have settled on the hydraulic....no header clearance issues, light pedal. They just usually cost a little more, but no cables to stretch and replace. I was fully set to buy a cable unit, but I have long tube headers and seems that half of the guys that have long tubes run into clearance issues. I will be purchasing the Modern Drivelines hydraulic unit....just going to beef up their slave cylinder mount when I get it.
 
I did the hydraulic from Modern Driveline.

Be sure and get the master cylinder relocation kit they have, otherwise your pedal will REALLY hard to push. I installed it by myself in about 4 hours.
 
Cable works fine when it's new and in good shape, but they wear out and get harder and harder to push. They melt on headers. They are cheaper - which is a plus. I always dread getting stuck in bumper to bumper traffic on the interstate during a 90 degree day in my Fox Mustang. The cable just gets stickier and stickier the longer you hold it and the more times you push it, especially on a hot day. I end up leaving the car out of gear as much as possible so I don't have to hold the clutch pedal down.

I say it comes down to cost. If you have the money, spend for the better hydraulic system. If not, a cable will work. It's just not as good.
 
The main reason im choosing hydraulic is because the guy (Bruce @ Modern Driveline) couldnt tell me yes or no on whether the cable setup would work on my car with my long tube headers, and with MY luck, there I would, buy the 260 dollar cable kit, then it get roasted, have to buy another 50 dollar cable and new headers and then be 800 bucks......460 bucks for the hydraulic is just money ahead in my scenario.
 
i have a hyd setup with my toploader. its from the old JME company that went out of buisness a year or so ago. works well, hard pedal to push. I may go back to the OEM style. my fears are any leaks that happen on the inside of the bell housing will cause a lot of work to fix. on the t-5 i think the hyd cylinder is on the out side left of the bell housing, on the top loader its attached to the front on the trans. with the oem set up you can see it, touch it and make sure it works 100% on a routine basis. the hyd setup could start leaking and then you will be stuck. just my two cents.
 
On my first setup with the T5 i had the mustang steve cable conversion. We had installed a king cobra clutch kit. It was all you could do to push the pedal in, you could actually see the firewall flex when the clutch pedal was being pushed. Very spongy feeling pedal. I removed that setup and installed the hydraulic setup from JME also. It took sometime to bleed, but worth every penny spent. If you decide on the cable setup and are running a heavier clutch setup, i would look into somehow reinforcing the firewall. Believe me , it will move.
 
I have the MD clutch cable on mine. Its been on the car for a couple years now and works fine. I also got the roller bearing pedal kit.

Whats this master cylinder kit you speak of?

There is an adapter to use the stock linkage.
 
Keep the stock linkage or go with hydraulic.
If you don't have $500 for a fancy kit it is easy to set up the clutch hydraulics from OE components. Internet is full of various designs.
 
I run the Mustang Steve cable kit, it works well but the cable routing is cumbersome. If I had it to do over Id go hydraulic, In fact I might change it anyway.
 
If you are converting from a 4 spd to the T5 use the stock linkage and get the adaptor to mount the T5 to the stock bell housing. Like 2+2 said, the car could burn down and the stock linkage would still be there. Just rebuild the pedal assembly with roller bearings. If you insist on not using the stock linkage, go hydraulic. The set up from Modern Driveline is real nice.