cam choices. best for n/a 2v?

just spoke with nick as MHS. super nice guy. what i really like is that he takes the time to answer any questions you have without making your feel rushed. very helpful. he suggested his stage 2 cam. designed for stock springs and no ptv issues. he has a nitrious cam that is very similiar but favors more on the exhaust side which would give the car more lope while i only sacrificing about 5 ft lbs down low. he said it would work good in my car if it wanted a little more sound even if i do not do nitrious and would perform about the same as the stage 2. he mentioned degreeing the cams inside the motor is a pain. if i get the cams, have them degree'd and trickflow cam gears assembled and ready to drop in, it would be a fuzz over $800.

he strongly recommends a tune but its very driveable without. he mentioned since i have a diablosport, i can adjust the idle. with a proper tune these cams give a 30hp gain.

he said there is 30 thousandths of ptv clearance.
 
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:nice: sounds like a good plan. Nick is the man when it comes to modular 2V performance. Glad he was able to steer you in the right direction. I'm still having a tough time deciding whether to buy a set of NPI cams from him, or to buy the stage 2 PI heads and 2P cams from him... Not sure if I can justify spending over $2000 to buy heads, cams, head change kit, and new timing components to have 300 RWHP, when I could probably spend only $1000 on a tune and MHS NPI cams and make 275 RWHP..... Is an extra 25 RWHP worth another grand??? I don't really know...
 
i'd be very satisfied with 275, but now thats just my opinion. i like saving money so i would prob opt for banking a grand and making 25 less hp:nice:



o wait....hey man, could you spot me that extra 1000 you will be saving for some cams for my car :D
 
i'd be very satisfied with 275, but now thats just my opinion. i like saving money so i would prob opt for banking a grand and making 25 less hp:nice:

That's probably what I'll do. It would be nice to have some new heads though... but with the new 5.0's out I might just want to get rid of the '98 and pick one of them up in a few years :shrug:

Nick did tell me that if I kept the NPI heads and opted for the NPI stage 2 cams I'd probably make 10 more ft-lbs of torque down low compared to the ported PI heads and 2P cams, but the ported PI's and 2P cams really scream up top. According to Nick the NPI heads have much more PTV clearance and therefore you can run an aggressive intake centerline... Long story short, most of my driving is around town anyways and the boost in torque might make my car more fun to drive rather than the top end punch of a ported and cammed PI swap :shrug:

Decisions, decisions :D

BTW, I'd probably be satisfied with 275 RWHP too... for about a month :D Me along with everyone else on this site has an addition to mod...
 
For the choppyness/lope of cams on youtube it can be very misleading. Alot of the times what the poster doesn't mention is that their car is not at full operating temp while being filmed. My car with weak Comp 262's sounds very radical upon initial startup while it gets to operating temp. Soon after I drive for a few miles the chop is there but very lightly.
 
Add two more cams. :shrug:


Check it out. You can get a whole Mark VIII motor for well under $500 in perfect runing order and it will bolt directly in. You would lose the IMRC but thats easy to bypass. That will give you 45 more HP then you have now. Cam cant do that. Plus you would have the best engine block Ford ever made, the Teksid.


Also you could source Marauder, Mach 99/01 Cobra heads for $250 a pair in perfect shape. Another $80 for the timing cover, $250 for a Cobra or Mach intake, $80 for fuel rail, $100 for some $24lb injectors and there you will have a C head motor also making 305hp. Nice thing about the C head is down the road if you wanna supercharge it you can get a complet 03/04 setup for under $2000. :nice:



When you hear all 32 valves singing at 6500+ RPM you will be thanking the hell out of me. :D
 
Friend holding the cam sprocket???

Alright so I read over a few responses to this thread and a few people are saying you don't have to take off the front cover if a friend holds the cam sprockets. I understand this but than it would be impossible to degree the cams. I can't imagine telling anyone it would be a good idea to install new cams (most likely higher lift) without degreeing them properly. You could definitely run into piston to valve clearance problems.

Besides the supposed Hi-Tech stage 1's is there a cam that they say you can install safely without being degreed?

Also I just read an article by Sean Hyland of Hyland motorsports and from his findings in the 99-04 2v's a huge lift isn't really going to give you the best performance all around. Keeping the lift within the .550 range with a longer duration than stock should yield better results. The stock cams have a decent lift as is (i believe .535) correct me if i am wrong.
 
Also I just read an article by Sean Hyland of Hyland motorsports and from his findings in the 99-04 2v's a huge lift isn't really going to give you the best performance all around. Keeping the lift within the .550 range with a longer duration than stock should yield better results. The stock cams have a decent lift as is (i believe .535) correct me if i am wrong.

This is true. The stock 2V PI heads do not have enough flow rates to incorporate a high lift/agressive cam. You will need ported heads or aftermarket if you want to take full advantage of a big cam. Otherwise you are wasting your money. 2Vs seem to do okay with a mild street cam, ex comp 262 or 270 (generally speaking).

Take the time to have your cams degreed if you are going to go that route. Better to do it right the first time than to end up with a bent valve or a damaged piston.
 
Not that it is relevant at this time, but why the "choppy idle" requirement? You don't drive a '74 Nova, why insist on feeling like you do? I'd rather insist on measurable power gains, and all the better if the idle never changed. Lope is for fools who never take it to the track but never stop telling you their car is faster.

And Mr. McKinney knows his stuff. He deserves the business even if he sold you on his own products :)
 
Not that it is relevant at this time, but why the "choppy idle" requirement? You don't drive a '74 Nova, why insist on feeling like you do? I'd rather insist on measurable power gains, and all the better if the idle never changed. Lope is for fools who never take it to the track but never stop telling you their car is faster.

And Mr. McKinney knows his stuff. He deserves the business even if he sold you on his own products :)

you mean my car doesn't have a 350 in it? o no!
 
Nick from mhs has the specs for the stock pi cams on his website and most aftermarket cams only give another .050" of lift on the intake side and even less on the exhaust they just have a lot more duration. Don't know if this was pointless info to some but I figured I would Share.