Can I make a 5.0 handle?

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 1993 2.3LX, Jun 30, 2009.


  1. Shaolin Crane

    Shaolin Crane Banned

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    oh i dont think you understand how bad its gonna be
  2. 95Vert383AOD

    95Vert383AOD Active Member

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    Yeah i have Tokico Illuminas set to the stiffest setting...I feel EVERYTHING. Mildly bumpy roads feel like they're gonna rattle the car apart. But theres nothing like sliding around corners with no swaying. or going 100+ MPH on a SMOOTH highway and not getting that floating effect that a stock suspension gives you.

    But i no longer Play CD's (Skippin ain't pimpin)....good thing i have USB and MP3 inputs.
  3. LaserSVT

    LaserSVT "WTF!? Why is every bolt a different size!?" Founding Member

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    If you dont know, now you know ni....
    Its all in the spring/shock choice. If you go with a good progressive spring like Eibach or Steeda Sports and pair them with Bilstiens or Tokico Illuminas (adjustable) then you can have the awesome handling with a good ride too.
    Also, dont go insaine with the supporting stuff. Dont get the spherical bearings on the controll arms, get the polly bushings. DOnt get the solid motor mounts or torque limiter. Also a good sound deadning mat helps. If you do the entire floor with Dynamat or VG2 and overlap the sheets 1/2" then it will make the whole floor more rigid and allow the suspension to do its work. :nice:
    A pan hard bar is also a really good idea. I like to do a five link keeping the upper/lower controll arms instead of adding a torque arm because they tend to make the car harsher and mor road noise.
  4. Shaolin Crane

    Shaolin Crane Banned

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    i dont think the OP wants something very streetable, only thing i noticed about having a panhard only the car tends to slide alot more around turn since the rear end is so planted underneath the car, poly bushings i agree with on the chassis end but pherical would be best on the axle, and saldy when it comes to dynamat its cheaper to have subframes installed then it is to buy dynamat and install it, simpler too
  5. ThePumpkin

    ThePumpkin New Member

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    The GVWR (or whatever it is) is the weight of the car +200lbs per seat.
    Your car has 4 seats.... 3750-800= 2950
  6. LaserSVT

    LaserSVT "WTF!? Why is every bolt a different size!?" Founding Member

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    I ment to do the dynamat in addition to the FLSFCs :nice: To do the car it would need about $200 in material and its easy to put in yourself. :shrug:
    I thought it was based on 160lbs per person. :scratch:
  7. Shaolin Crane

    Shaolin Crane Banned

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    yeah the material is easy to put in, pulling up the carpet and wiring is the **** of it, and if your gonna do that i say go with hushmat i like the butyl better and it applies easier and is much cheaper
  8. 7upstang91

    7upstang91 Member

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    I love that smooth feeling! My tends to get the floating effect at about 130mph that when i shut it down. But i did steeda instead, i have the Tokico's just not the adjustable ones. How do you like them? I want a set for my Notch.
  9. 7upstang91

    7upstang91 Member

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    Why don't you buy a Notch that already have a good motor in it? you can get one with a GOOD motor and other goodies for around $5000, it depends what you get. Then go from there with handling. This would be the cheapest way. More than likely if the car has a build N/A motor than it should have a drivetrain that will handle the power.
  10. prez1967

    prez1967 Founding Member

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    i'm on the same boat as the original builder... i've been working on my project (on and off) for the past 6 years now... i bought a decent starting point, started with minor bolt ons, installed the MM Road and track box, converted to 4 wheel cobra brakes, added wide rubber, now i'm back to the little bits until either a k-member swap or new motor build...

    Every phase of the project has brought alot of smiles (as well as some frustrations) but its always been a learning experience. If your gonna do the project "right" take that $10K budget and wipe your ass with it...

    for instance, my "modified" M-2300-K brake setup with MM adaptors and 2000 Cobra R front components, R58 Motorsport wheels set me back between $3.5k-$4K... but i wont need more unless i get competetive... and thats not in the plans
  11. Shaolin Crane

    Shaolin Crane Banned

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    thats the areo dynamics of the car, 130 the wind starts lift the front end of the car up
  12. 1993 2.3LX

    1993 2.3LX New Member

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  13. prez1967

    prez1967 Founding Member

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    time to fab up a front splitter...
  14. 1993 2.3LX

    1993 2.3LX New Member

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    For sure. 130 and floating is not fun!!!
  15. 1993 2.3LX

    1993 2.3LX New Member

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  16. Shaolin Crane

    Shaolin Crane Banned

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    yup, i think my budget was that then it grew to about 25k
  17. Shaolin Crane

    Shaolin Crane Banned

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  18. 95Vert383AOD

    95Vert383AOD Active Member

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    I had the adjustables on my 1990 lincoln and now on my 1995 mustang. Every setting is stiff. With that said i keep them at the stiffest setting. Setting it to 1 will give about the same road harshness as 5...but it feels a little softer in the corners. So don't expect setting 1 to feel like a Cadillac and 5 to feel like a go cart.....It feels like a go cart all the time. 1 (the soft setting) just feels like a go cart with under inflated tires. But they are night and day!!! Save your Recipt....if you ever blow a strut Tokico will swap it no questions asked.
  19. 1993 2.3LX

    1993 2.3LX New Member

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    Price seems pretty reasonable from what I have seen. How much would a good bottom end rebuild cost on a 5.0? And with a good rebuild and this Trick Flow kit how much HP might I expect?
  20. Shaolin Crane

    Shaolin Crane Banned

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    decent rotating assemblies can be had for around a grand, i would expect that kit to make around 315rwhp

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