Car Won't Start!!! WTF!! Need Help BAD!

M

MadHandle8169

Founding Member
May 5, 2002
432
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0
Brick, NJ
#1
I'm making a new thread off an older one I made about a week ago that died and I also want to explain it better. I am really stumped. About a week back my car went really low on gas because it was late and no gas stations were open until I came to an Exxon. It was really close to "E". I got gas and everything was fine and I drove the car to my internship the next morning.

I shut the car off went to work for about 8 hours and went to start it and I could instantly tell something was wrong. The car was idling extremely rough and I tried to drive it home since my job is not that far from my house. I reconsidered when it felt like it was going to die and felt vastly underpowered. However, it did seem like it ran better as the rpms rose if that says anything. I got it towed to my house and as it sits right now it won't start.

So far I've tried several cheap things to fix it. I had a warrantee on my distributor so I replaced that for free. I then thought it was the EGR valve but when I took it out it was not stuck, looked clean and would move when I sucked on the valve(I know that sounds dirty). Next I got all new spark plugs because when I removed mine they were very dark somewhat fouled. They were not completely dark and fould looking if you know what I mean they did however look like they were running very rich. Those were the colder nitrous plugs from last year but the car was running fine and I didn't spray the nitrous this year so don't say it was the nitrous that hurt the motor. The car ran fine all winter and summer up until this point. I moved the distributor around and saw if the timing was way off or something. Right now I have absolutely no clue and don't feel like paying some mechanic $100 an hour who is going to screw me. Does anyone have any clue what it could be? I'm thinking about replacing the coil? Sorry this is so ridiculously long but I am real need of help. Thanks.
 

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#2
First you have to check to see if you have spark and fuel. After you figure this out it will be much easier to help diagnose. Does your fuel pump come on when you turn the key? Do you hear a click sound under the hood when you turn the key? Do you have good pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail?
 
#4
I would get my hands on a diagnostic FP gauge, like TM mentioned.. What you have sounds an awful lot like a fuel pump that aint delivering enough flow (sans the part about it clearing up at higher RPM, but there's not enough info there. E.g. Going to WOT might make it ramp up ok, but not like it should for the amount of throttle input being applied).

You can check for consistant spark with a timing light on each plug wire. Make sure all the boots are plugged in real tight.

Good luck.
 
#6
Have you looked at your MAF sensor to see if it was gunked up? Same with your IAT? Is the MIL on?

An inductive timing light will eliminate spark out of the equation. Only way for current to pass through a plug wire is for the coil to send current through the spark plug wire, the plug to spark and ground out on the heads. If anything is otherwise, the timing light will not illuminate on that plug wire.

Your degrading situation sounds like a fuel pump problem IMHO, I have dealt with this before.
Scott
 
#8
just use timing light as you normally would to check timing, positive wire of timing light to positive battery and negative to neg. battery and pickup wire, clamp on sparkplug wire and if the light flashes rapidly you have spark on that wire check all eight wires like this....if no spark is present the pickup wire wont pickup a signal from the sparkplug wire and the light won't flash...
 
#9
One more thing to get consistant results - many inductive timing lights have an arrow on the plug lead - make sure the arrow is pointing the right direction. Otherwise it can miss some flashes/pulses.

FWIW, you could also do a cylinder balance test to look for a miss - it's a LOT easier and much more precise.


Good luck.
 
#11
His problem is that the car will not start at all now. A dirty MAF, IAC or a miss will not cause a no-start situation.

Here's a quick method to check your spark. Take off a plug wire from the plug. Stick a screw driver into the boot of the plug wire. Now hold the shank of the screwdriver (metal part) close (1/16") away from a metal surface.(Intake, header, alternator etc.).

While holding the screwdriver close, have someone go and turn the car over, if you are getting spark, you'll see it jump from the screwdriver to whatever you're holding it against. A phillips head screwdriver that will go into the spark plug terminal inside the boot is best as it will ensure you're getting good contact. Also, keep your hand away from the shank while doing this so you won't get shocked! As long as you're holding the handle of the screwdriver you'll be fine. If you do this and see the spark, then your ignition system is ruled out.
 
#14
have you considered bad gas a few weeks ago a friend of mine had the same symptoms except car was dying at idle but we cleaned and reset everything and replaced a few things and it turned out he bought some bad gas at a local gas station after draining tank and replacing fuel should have been the first thing we did but anyway after new fuel was added problem gone....
 
#15
MadHandle, have you checked for any pressure at the shrader valve/service port yet? This port is just to the rear/right of the alternator on the fuel rail. Just use a nail or small screwdriver and push in the valve and see if you have pressure. Don't stand right above it as it may have lots! don't forget to cycle the key a few times to prime it up before you test.

Let us know if you get anything.
 
#17
ok, you have fuel, but you don't know how much. Remember, it takes alot of pressure to run the car. A broken fuel pump will almost always still pump fuel, but not enough to run the car. You really need a guage. If not a diagnostic type gauge, get one that screws on to your shrader valve.
 
#18
Thanks for the help so far guys but I just don't have the time right now because of my internship. I am going to get it towed by AAA to a mechanic who did some work on my mom's car. I will keep you guys updated if you want just let me know. Thanks again for all the suggestions I just wish I had more time to focus on the car and I can't stand seeing it just sit in the driveway while I work and am too tired to look at it when I get home. So tomorrow the car goes to a mechanic for the first time since I have owned it. Not bad for 3 years I guess.
 
#19
I agree that a 40 PSI system is too difficult to use any sort of testing upon, other than using a gauge.

25 PSI would still dump a bit of fuel out when the Schrader is depressed.

Good luck with the mechanic.
 
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