Sooooooo. I bought the Eibach pro system plus for upgrade suspension. Ripped everything out. Ended up ordering new control arms and quad shocks. Along with tie rods. Yea, the typical simple suspension upgrade lol. Anyway I ordered the SVE camber caster plates because they are shiny I guess. And now Im ready to put struts on the front and springs. Buuuuutttttt... I have no idea how to do any alignment. Is there any kind of help anyone can give me? I would like to get it driveable to the alignment shop if possible.
Caster Camber Plates... Help?
- Thread starter billbosc
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Here's how I did it.
Put a piece of masking take on the edge of your fender near your struts. Put a mark on that tape and then measure from the center of the strut to that mark on the tape and write the measurement on the tape.
Next, put a piece of masking tape on the firewall. Now measure from the center of the struts back to the firewall at your masking tape. Write the measurements on the tape.
Measure drivers side and passenger side separately.
Now you know exactly where the center of the top of your both struts are sitting. Once you get your new plates installed adjust your strut tops back to your original dimensions.
There Ya go! good Luck
Put a piece of masking take on the edge of your fender near your struts. Put a mark on that tape and then measure from the center of the strut to that mark on the tape and write the measurement on the tape.
Next, put a piece of masking tape on the firewall. Now measure from the center of the struts back to the firewall at your masking tape. Write the measurements on the tape.
Measure drivers side and passenger side separately.
Now you know exactly where the center of the top of your both struts are sitting. Once you get your new plates installed adjust your strut tops back to your original dimensions.
There Ya go! good Luck
I think he already removed everything and now needs to know how to do it from scratch.
I believe you just want to get your front tires pointed as straight forward as possible and be vertical when the full weight of the vehicle is resting on the ground. That should be good enough for a short trip to the alignment shop. Use a measuring tape to measure how far apart your front right and front left tires are apart in front of the tires, then do the backs of the tires and try to get them to be equal.
I believe you just want to get your front tires pointed as straight forward as possible and be vertical when the full weight of the vehicle is resting on the ground. That should be good enough for a short trip to the alignment shop. Use a measuring tape to measure how far apart your front right and front left tires are apart in front of the tires, then do the backs of the tires and try to get them to be equal.
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I wrote this before smartphones and angle-finder apps were so popular, so it's actually even easier now. But the car needs to be on the ground or the wheels need to be at static ride height somehow.
How to do your own alignments, low cost, effective. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
How to do your own alignments, low cost, effective. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Before I give you a reco, you need to know that these cars need some negative camber in order to keep the tires from wearing the outside edges during any spirited cornering. This is even more true when the car is lowered, because the outside tire will gain less negative camber as its strut compresses than it would if it were at factory height.
The problem is, everybody and their brother will try to scare you away from negative camber because they say it causes the inner edges of the tire to wear. This marginally true, but nothing you're going to notice in 20,000 miles. The real tire killer is improper toe setting, or the inability of the suspension to keep the setting when the car is in motion (e.g. weak A-arm bushings). If the toe is wrong, it'll wear the tires in a hurry, and it'll concentrate that wear to the edges due to camber.
So, with all that said, set the car to 4-5 degrees positive caster (or as far back as you can get the plates and still get the camber you want), set the camber to at least 1.25 degrees negative. I prefer 1.5 to 1.75 for general street duty. I actually run 2.25 neg at all times during track season (8 months of the year) so I don't have to dick around changing it back and forth for the track.
The key is, I re-set the toe whenever I change the camber. So whenever you have your camber and caster set, then set the toe to absolutely zero if you have urethane or delrin A-arm bushings. If the bushings are rubber, give it 1/16th of an inch of toe-in, because the bushings will deflect when the car is rolling and bring the toe out closer to zero.
The problem is, everybody and their brother will try to scare you away from negative camber because they say it causes the inner edges of the tire to wear. This marginally true, but nothing you're going to notice in 20,000 miles. The real tire killer is improper toe setting, or the inability of the suspension to keep the setting when the car is in motion (e.g. weak A-arm bushings). If the toe is wrong, it'll wear the tires in a hurry, and it'll concentrate that wear to the edges due to camber.
So, with all that said, set the car to 4-5 degrees positive caster (or as far back as you can get the plates and still get the camber you want), set the camber to at least 1.25 degrees negative. I prefer 1.5 to 1.75 for general street duty. I actually run 2.25 neg at all times during track season (8 months of the year) so I don't have to dick around changing it back and forth for the track.
The key is, I re-set the toe whenever I change the camber. So whenever you have your camber and caster set, then set the toe to absolutely zero if you have urethane or delrin A-arm bushings. If the bushings are rubber, give it 1/16th of an inch of toe-in, because the bushings will deflect when the car is rolling and bring the toe out closer to zero.
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