CBAZA Fuel, Tune Questions? Can anyone help me with my tune?

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Burlington, NJ
I was wondering if someone could help me out with getting my tune strait. Currently i have decent settings that make the car run quite well in OL. However in CL the car idles really lean and intake backfires.

I have the bin files and datalogs i can send to someone willing to help.
Thanks,
Adam
 
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Yes i have EA i had to email Clint it wont calculate new injector parameters it freezes.

I have 24lb injectors from a 98 cobra and a 24lb cal'd pro M bullet 75mm maf. I had another tuner give me a transfer thats possibly from that maf. I have my high and low injector slopes down around 22. Which got me closer to the "suggested maf transfer" It looked like it was off by a factor so the suggested curve was peeling away from the maf curve i had which lead me to looking at fuel. If you post your email i can send you my bin's and logs.

Thanks,
Adam
 
I had a massive issue with EA and injectors on our eec...could never get the EA outputs to work worth a darn with the j4j1 programming and 24's. If your using a t4m0 base file have you entered in the correct inj. offset voltage for 24's?

With 24's I found it easier to just leave the injector settings alone and use a j4j1 base tune...I then used a stock ford meter from a 98 mustang (80mm). Something always gave me a headache as the j4j1 and t4mo used different injector setups/programming IIRC and I could never get it to work correctly. Its not that un-common either and I am not knocking EA...just would not work for my dumb arse.

EA is on my laptop that has no way to connect to another PC so I could not view the log.

1st - My first choice would be if you still have your stock maf...I would toss that on as its the same one GT or Cobra and would be the least hassle out of the box. It does not look like your have mods that would peg the stock meter either.

2nd - Sell the current maf and pick up a factory ford maf like an Lmaf or something and not work around a "cheated" or "cal'd" maf when your have a tuner.

3rd - I would say load up a base j4j1 and even though you have a "cheated" or "cal'd" maf and I would retune that maf curve since you know the 24's will be setup correctly with the j4j1 base tune. It should eliminate the injector part of the hassle. That way your just working with the maf transfer for your setup.

In the end I would work the MAFTransfer and not the inj slope/offset/breakpoint stuff...just leave them stock j4j1 and tune the maf transfer. EA should get that sorted out in a log or two.
 
I had a massive issue with EA and injectors on our eec...could never get the EA outputs to work worth a darn with the j4j1 programming and 24's. If your using a t4m0 base file have you entered in the correct inj. offset voltage for 24's?

With 24's I found it easier to just leave the injector settings alone and use a j4j1 base tune...I then used a stock ford meter from a 98 mustang (80mm). Something always gave me a headache as the j4j1 and t4mo used different injector setups/programming IIRC and I could never get it to work correctly. Its not that un-common either and I am not knocking EA...just would not work for my dumb arse.

EA is on my laptop that has no way to connect to another PC so I could not view the log.

1st - My first choice would be if you still have your stock maf...I would toss that on as its the same one GT or Cobra and would be the least hassle out of the box. It does not look like your have mods that would peg the stock meter either.

2nd - Sell the current maf and pick up a factory ford maf like an Lmaf or something and not work around a "cheated" or "cal'd" maf when your have a tuner.

3rd - I would say load up a base j4j1 and even though you have a "cheated" or "cal'd" maf and I would retune that maf curve since you know the 24's will be setup correctly with the j4j1 base tune. It should eliminate the injector part of the hassle. That way your just working with the maf transfer for your setup.

In the end I would work the MAFTransfer and not the inj slope/offset/breakpoint stuff...just leave them stock j4j1 and tune the maf transfer. EA should get that sorted out in a log or two.

Id like to use my current tune seeing that wes did alot of the work for me on the rest of it. (timing,adaptives,etc. which i dont have the slightest clue what to mess with.) I have access to a L maf i could try. But id just like to straiten out the Injector setting which i think is where my problem lies. The car runs so damn well in OL....

I emailed clint about the issue im having. He responded and wanted an example of when it wont calculate a slope for me. So i sent him a log.

I guess i should list my mods:

306, Keith Black Flat Top Pistons, TFS/KPI HiPorts, Wolverine 1190 Cam, TFS Track Heat, 1 3/4'' Accufab Headers, 70MM Accufab TB, 24lb Injectors, 24lb Pro M maf, Innovate LC1, Moates QH, BE, EECA
 
Wes knows volumes more than I.

Did you move from 19's to 24's after Wes did the tune or something? I doubt it would have been much of an issue for Wes so I am assuming you had 19's when Wes did your tune...and now your adding 24's.

You are also using the Moats QH...my issue was with the j4j1 in tweecer world with cal-edit. I would go to the Lmaf and dump the pro-m, if Wes used a j4j1 base putting in the figures for the factory 24's and then working with the transfer would still probably be the way to go.
 
I had another tuner give me a transfer thats possibly from that maf.

You just gotta know for certain the facts about your meter :Word:

Its the foundation upon which the entire CL part of the tune is
based upon :)

Its not a big deal at all to try another tune :nono:
you just save your current tune to a file name of say ... current tune
then ... create a different one to a file name of say ... new tune

Having said that :D
heres what I'd do just to see if the meter or curve built for it is hosed

Put the oem meter on the Stang
upload the j4j1 file and see how it runs

At this point in time ... OL or WOT is of no concern
The idea here is to see how CL goes with known meter and pcm values;)

Grady
 
I swapped out my pro M for a lightning meeter.

now im having an issue in CL under light or closed throttle. The car will go extremely lean and max out the wide band. If i depress the clutch and blip the throttle the car goes back to a normal AFR. However if i try to give it gas in gear it will normally backfire through the intake. It will also do this initially when pulling up to a light and starting to idle but will then smooth out. During the times this is occurring the Lambse value will be way off of the value of my Wideband.


The other issues i was having went away when i switched to a 90mm Lightning maf and the stock injector values from a J4J1. The car runs great at wot and cruses at 15.5-16.5 with an occasional spike of 17. wot's 12.5-13 until i let off then it goes to high 11's for a second or 2.

Thanks again for the help guys.
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As you know, there are tons and tons of pcm values :crazy:

Heck Fire ... with the inj's alone you got
low slope
high slope
batt offsets
breakpoint
and more I've forgotten :shrug:

If you are gonna run 24's you can take advantage of the bulk of all
that stuff and more being close to good to go with the j4j1 file :nice:

Then ... with the focus on CL only ..........
You got the good fortune of having no unknowns :D

I'm just sayin ... Make it easy on yourself ;)

Then if you get the CL issues .......
you'd suspect mechanical probs and not something in the tune

I'd suspect the curve for both meters is just not right

Again ... Using the OEM meter would be just to rule out unknowns

Now ... It would be easy to fatten up the troublesome points in the
curve to see if it helps

I'd most likely do that before changing stuff out just to see if my
suspicion's were correct :)

So ... What do you think?

Grady
 
As you know, there are tons and tons of pcm values :crazy:

Heck Fire ... with the inj's alone you got
low slope
high slope
batt offsets
breakpoint
and more I've forgotten :shrug:

If you are gonna run 24's you can take advantage of the bulk of all
that stuff and more being close to good to go with the j4j1 file :nice:

Then ... with the focus on CL only ..........
You got the good fortune of having no unknowns :D

I'm just sayin ... Make it easy on yourself ;)

Then if you get the CL issues .......
you'd suspect mechanical probs and not something in the tune

I'd suspect the curve for both meters is just not right

Again ... Using the OEM meter would be just to rule out unknowns

Now ... It would be easy to fatten up the troublesome points in the
curve to see if it helps

I'd most likely do that before changing stuff out just to see if my
suspicion's were correct :)

So ... What do you think?

Grady

Yea... Im confident this curve for the Lmaf is spot on. The car feels great it just acts up down low in CL. In order to hook up the stock maf i need to find the correct reducers/adapters and cut off the pigtail i just wired in.
 
If you have longtubes, you have to tune for them, and if at any time your 02 sensors mirror. You have a 02 sensor issue. Replace the driver 02 sensor and see if that fixes the problem
 
What you describe sounds like some kind of mechanical prob

Maybe one O2 or the wire harness is hosed

You could swap the O2's for an easy test to see if the same thing
happens on the other side :)

Grady
 
What you describe sounds like some kind of mechanical prob

Maybe one O2 or the wire harness is hosed

You could swap the O2's for an easy test to see if the same thing
happens on the other side :)

Grady

Ill take a look at the harness. I had to extend it at one point. I soldered all connections nicely and used heat shrink on them.

I have 4 02's from a 96 cobra are the upstreams a direct swap???
 
You may also gain something from fine tuning the maftransfer down low. After I got some issues resolved I noticed EA was suggesting some changes down low with my 98gt 80mm maf. Good to hear your going in what seems to be the right direction.

I would check everything like said though.

I dont even know how mine runs right now...has the stock o2's from 93 (early production 94) with well over 120k on them :rlaugh:. I have noticed in the last year or two the switching is getting SLOW. Honestly, they were ok up until 1-2yrs ago but I have been driving it more lately the last few years.
 
You may also gain something from fine tuning the maftransfer down low. After I got some issues resolved I noticed EA was suggesting some changes down low with my 98gt 80mm maf. Good to hear your going in what seems to be the right direction.

I would check everything like said though.

I dont even know how mine runs right now...has the stock o2's from 93 (early production 94) with well over 120k on them :rlaugh:. I have noticed in the last year or two the switching is getting SLOW. Honestly, they were ok up until 1-2yrs ago but I have been driving it more lately the last few years.

mine are used with unknown mileage im to broke to buy new ones