CEL Light Burnt?

85SVOGUY

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Jan 21, 2009
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Hi all i have an all stock 5 speed 89 5.0 gt. I was going to take it into for a smog but I realized the CEL does not come on at all when turning on the car or turning the key. I just did a full tune up last weekend, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pcv valve, grommet, base idle, timing, tps, cleaned iac, maf, TB, fuel filter, oil change even threw some lucas stabilizer in oil and tank and steamed the engine.

My question is when the CEL does not come on what are the possible causes? Burnt fuse, CEL bulb burnt out, wiring issue? If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it. From what I understand all mass air cars had a CEL so mine should as well!
 
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Turn the ignition switch to Run, but do not start the car. The CEL will come on if it isn't burned out or has other problems.

CEL lights up as described above, but the codes won't dump:

Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 model 5.0 Mustangs

Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The voltage drop in the ground cable will cause incorrect resistance readings.


How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power and drivability problems. Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms.

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If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins 40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal ground has failed, and the computer needs to be repaired or replaced.

See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/749974-computer-issue.html#post7490537 for Joel5.0’s fix for the computer internal signal ground.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector: it is for an A9L, A9P computer.
eec04.gif


a9x-series-computer-connector-wire-side-view-gif.71316


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.

88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
salt-pepper-10-pin-connectors-65-jpg.68512
 
That's what I'm thinking too. To get to that bulb what do I need to remove? Two top bolts on bezel, pull it back, remove the bolts that hold the cluster plate on and pull it all back?
 
Remove steering wheel trim. 2 screws on top of bezel, 3 screws on bottom (2 on plastic suround, and one on right side brass bar). Remove and unplug the headlight and defrost switch. Put cluster surround aside

There are 4 screws holding the gauge cluster in. I beleive in the 4 corners. Once removed, pull the cluster out and unplug it. The speedo cable is a PITA. I think you need to squeeze and push it in in order to remove it.

After that, it's just finding which twist out connector has the CEL bulb in it. Way to tell is to remove 1 at a time and shine a light in the hole. (or just look for a burned out bulb)
 
The cable plugs into the back of the cluster. In order to pull the cluster out, you'll need to unp;lug the cable from the back of the cluster .

You can try leaving it connected, but it will be a huge PITA unless you can reach back there and twist out the socket and change the bulb