Clutch Adjustment

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
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Maryland
Let me get this straight. When you install an aftermarket aluminum quadrant under the dash, do you eliminate the factory plastic quadrant and also eliminate the plastic factory adjuster? Then, along with the aluminum quadrant, you install a firewall cable adjuster?

Does the firewall adjuster allow you to change the height from the floor which the clutch engages? Right now mine is too low it seems an maybe 1". Makes it prone to stalling it. I want to get it more like 3"
 
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That adjuster is similar to mine, I still got the stock quadrant, cobra clutch, no problems, is your quadrant working properly?

Stock quadrant is working fine but I want to avoid the failure of it which I hear is common. The firewall adjuster I plan to install will also help me get the clutch action where I want it, and keep it there.....hopefully
 
The quadrant from the donar car is a Zoom brand

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The firewall adapter does allow adjustment for pedal height.

That Zoom looks similar to my SVO one. The quadrant part can't be used without the firewall adjuster.

The rubber bushing at the firewall on the factory cable has to be removed. Also, there are three little bumps on the nylon end that hold the bushing....after you get the rubber off take a razor blade or grinder and remove the bumps.

If you have a heavier clutch plate than stock I'd recommend making a support plate for the firewall. The area the cable passes through is also known to fatigue. Its just about a 3 x 3in. piece of steel or aluminum with a hole drilled through for the firewall adjuster to fit through. It helps to spread the load of a heavier clutch kit.

Once the cable, adjuster, and quadrant are installed up top...I found it easier to use a long screw driver or small pry bar to push the clutch fork forward to install the cable at the trans.
 
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I do recommend the firewall adjuster, the rubber bushing on the stock cable is the cause of more than a few clutch problems.
You just don't need the quadrant replaced, it can be upgraded if it fails, 150k and a regular beating, still waiting for failure.
 
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Over time plastic gets brittle. I had one fail and I wasn't beating on it.

I was in stop and go traffic and it broke. I had a stock clutch. Another one broke when I was coming back from Alabama. That happened just past the GA SC line.

I don't beat the piss out of my cars, generally.

If the stock cable drags in the cable sleeve...the quadrant will break.

If the throw out bearing drags on the bearing retainer...the quadrant will break.

Why would anyone want something that is prone to break in their car when quadrant kits are so inexpensive ?

Trust me....it'll break.... I can't count how many people I know that have had issues with them.
 
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I understand what your say'n, I have an aluminum quadrant in my box of 'stuff' if/when it fails, ain't broke but I'm ready.
I'm all for upgrades but I'm kinda proud of that little quadrant put'n up with my abuse and standing tall, I'll probably find a place of honor in my junk box for it if/when it gives up
 
Changing it sounds like a great idea...until I contort myself and look up under the dash. Then I realize it would be a colossal pain in the a$$ to swap out. I'm not one of the young 20 something's on here...I'm mid 40's!
 
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This escalated quickly .

I've had a alum quadrant , stock style cable and MM fwa from the day I 5 speed swapped the car 5 years ago . I've had stock , ram , centeforce , McLeod single and dual disc clutch . No issues with fire wall flex .

I think that's more of an issue when you use the cheap adjustable cables in conjunction with a fwa making the cable overly tight