Clutch Problem?

[maximos]

Ok so I picked up a new gasket today but I didn't have all of my tools handy to get the job done. I did however throw some RTV sealant all over the area that I suspected and it doesn't appear to have fixed anything. I also picked up a vacuum tester and tested my lines at 3 different points...the range was 9-11Hg on the gauge - which from what I understand is about half of where it should be. Is there any ONE component that could cause that big of a drop or am I looking at a bunch of little things?

 

[HISSIN50]

A good sized leak will knock your reading down to around 10" hg.

I would start to disconnect lines from sources (one at a time. Plug the manifold as you remove the line) to see if you can find the issue. Remember that both fenders have vac-powered stuff in them and to check the booster line at the brake pedal assembly.

 

[maximos]

A good sized leak will knock your reading down to around 10" hg.

Would my e303 cam cause the vacuum system to run lower than a stock system?

I would start to disconnect lines from sources (one at a time. Plug the manifold as you remove the line) to see if you can find the issue. Remember that both fenders have vac-powered stuff in them and to check the booster line at the brake pedal assembly.

I know some EGR system components are located in the fender...My EGR has been disconnected and plugged as well as turned off in my computer tune. Will the components in the fender still play a role in this?

 

[HISSIN50]

If the vacuum feed to the EGR was removed and plugged, then it should not present an issue.
The vac lines for the EVAP system and A.I.R. system are still in that fender and the CC is in the driver fender.

 

[maximos]

I just put the new gasket on and discovered a couple of things. A piece of my upper manifold was broken off in the back where a bolt hole is. My guess is that the race shop that installed it for me torqued the bolts down too hard and since it's made of aluminum, it couldn't handle the pressure. It was an angled crack which made the manifold itself push down on the piece that was broken off so I reinstalled everything with some gasket sealer around the questionable areas. The result was an increase in Hg from 9-11 to 13-14, still not where it should be I think, but at least it's an improvement. The second thing I found was some oil in the upper intake manifold. I don't know if this information can help me in my search for the problem but I thought it worth mentioning.

I replaced all the caps on the vacuum lines that weren't hooked up anymore also.

With all that being said, my problem is still there. Still surging.

 

[maximos]

SURGING GONE!!!

All it took was $600 on a new intake manifold.

Don't worry though, the shop in Cincinnati that did my whole setup is going to get a nice letter with a receipt in it.

Thanks for all of your help with this guys. I know I still have a leak somewhere because I'm only at 15" Hg in the system, but the surging is gone so I can't complain. I'm thinking about having my injectors serviced and see if that helps at all. Unless you guys know of a way to completely clean them myself, I think sending them off is my best bet.

 

[HISSIN50]

Having them cleaned and flow tested used to be cheap but I don't know anymore.

You can kinda clean them yourself using an air/oil separator (filled with industrial injector cleaner), an air compressor and a bench harness to energize the injectors. By the time you do all this, get a rebuild kit for the injectors (about 25 bucks for 8 injectors the last time I looked) and spend your time, you might be better off with some fresh injectors (or some off a later model stang).

Because the surge happens at or near idle, if the car will pass a cylinder balance test (done after KOER codes are yanked), you would think you're ok. The test is specifically for checking injector performance and balance from one cylinder to another.