Cobra Intake Not Fitting

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by davs427, Jul 5, 2013.


  1. davs427

    davs427 New Member

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    Have a old block 302 that has been built. I put procomp heads on it. Cobra intake which I had on my other engine and stock heads. On this new motor the bolts match gaskets and heads well, but seems to have a pretty good gap approx 1/8" or so on the ends which seal against the block. I havent torqued it down because I was not wanting to waste the gaskets. Will this seal as I torque it down? Heads havent been shaved. Block is .030. Thanks. -David
  2. Maryland Stang

    Maryland Stang Active Member

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    There's supposed to be a gap at the ends. If you look in your intake gasket kit you should see that the end gaskets are real thick.


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  3. f8tlfiveo

    f8tlfiveo My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.

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    I normally pile up rtv sealant instead of using the gaskets
  4. Mustang5L5

    Mustang5L5 Car used in adult film "Highway Gangbang-InDaButt" SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    I use RTV + the gaskets
    Gearbanger 101 likes this.
  5. squeak93

    squeak93 Active Member

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    I always just use GOOD rtv. Lay it down like a weld (stack of dimes), get it about 1/4 to 3/8 tall and it will squish out what isn't needed (ensures good seal.) My only exp using the gaskets equaled a leaky mess. But that's just me, I know of others who use them with success.
    88LX5.Oh, f8tlfiveo and 7991LXnSHO like this.
  6. mikestang63

    mikestang63 Mustang Master

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    let the RTV set up a few minutes so it is tacky before you set the intake down. I also lay a bead of red RTV around the water jackets on the heads and lay the gaskets down over them. It keeps the gaskets in place from shifting and also adds some extra protection against water leaks. torque the intake in the pattern per the manufacturer in stages. I also retorque the bolts after a few heat cycles.
  7. 7991LXnSHO

    7991LXnSHO Active Member

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    Do we understand the problem? If so, I like easy ones to solve. Good RTV and save the rubber or cork snakes for tool box junk.
  8. Gearbanger 101

    Gearbanger 101 we love us some gays up here Super Mod

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    As do I. Unless that gaskets have an adhesion on one side, I lay a thin film of RTV on the block, give the block a couple of good gobs on each side where the cork meets the intake gaskets, lay the cork section down, then layer the silicone down on top of it. Let it set up a few minutes, set the intake "straight" on, then torque it down from the center out wards in steps. Don't go by the stock torque specs.....15lbs/ft is max. Any more and you risk pulling the threads out of the heads.
  9. 7991LXnSHO

    7991LXnSHO Active Member

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    Not a bad idea either. But I worry about the gasket movingduring install without 4 hande. Weldwood contact adhesive or Gaskacinch (spelling?) Is designed to keep stuff from slipping during installation. It would be a good idea on the block side and silicone on the other to perfect the seal. There are many ways to stop that oil. But block to manifold is not one in this location.
  10. Mustang5L5

    Mustang5L5 Car used in adult film "Highway Gangbang-InDaButt" SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Easy way to drop the intake. Get 2 long studs that thread into the block. Or get bolts and cut the heads off. Then you simply line the intake up over the studs and drop it straight down. Works every time vs trying to wiggle the intake in place
    f8tlfiveo likes this.

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