before i explain the problem. ill explain what ive tried. took it to my friends shop. pulled following codes. 67, 85, 91, 185.. it would not complete the running test. (you can read further on this at earlier thread i made http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=401096 ) i replaced the o2 sensors, cap, rotor, sparkplugs (with autolite 25s) ..cylinder #6's plug was covered in white ash. that wouldnt scrape off.. i kept it incase you all want to see it... the rest were just normal wear. things i noticed. whoever had my car was dumb. i dont think the right ford plug wires were connected to the right cylinders. a boot had duct tape on it. some had burn marks. and he has them tied together with one of those plastic ties.. thats right, all tied close together so they dont sag and hit the headers i guess. NOW, to the problems.. when i start it and its not warmed up. it will stall 3-4 times (more when colder outside) before it will idle roughly but not stall.. i have to blip up the rpms so it wont stall, and warm up. when its like this it hesitates pretty bad. after 5-10~ minutes the idling will smooth out. and become drivable, and the hesitation will get alot better. now, when im driving. it acts up at low rpms.. below ~2,500 sometimes. this seams to come and go.... sometime i will start hearing popping in my longtube headers and it will not accelerate at all, or very very slowly. (SUCKS IN TRAFFIC WHEN THIS HAPPENS) but if i can get it to accel to 2300+ or so it smooths out and starts to pull hard. when it does this. i downshift to up the rpms. and it accels fine if you think you can help with the cold starting problem, or the detonation(if thats the popping?) please do.. its a real pain in the ass to wait in the car for 10+ minutes to get to work, then 10+ to leave work thanks. derek .. when i get home tomorrow (monday) ill check that cylinder #6's plug and see how its doing. and try and fix the sparkplug wires. and not have them bunched together. and get them on the right cylinders.