Comp Cams VS Hot Rod Cams

Discussion in '2005 - 2009 Specific Tech' started by BLAKDOUT, Dec 19, 2008.

  1. BLAKDOUT

    BLAKDOUT New Member

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    yeah thats why i figured id do all my boltons and stuff then get cams when im done with everything else..... do the Mac Longtubes make good power and good quality?
     
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  2. CRoberts91

    CRoberts91 Member

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    does anyone know if the Hot Rods are compatible with FI? i know i wont see quite the gains of an FI grind, but roughly how much power will be lost? 10-20hp?
     
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  3. SpartaPerformance

    Site Sponsor

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    Hammeron is correct, while the Thumpers make more peak HP the Hot Rods give you a wider range if power and also have a much smoother torque curve, so your car will be quicker with the Hot Rods then the Thumpers because there is more torque generating more HP over the entire RPM range rather then just peak power between 5,000 - 5,900 RPM which is a small window of 900 rpm

     
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  4. Easley

    Easley New Member

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    Got the thumper II package from Bamachips. Shipping was fast, 3email tunes were free because I'm a return customer. Did the install myself. Took me 5hrs but was easy and no cussing involved. Started right up first try. Best mod I did to the car so far. I love to sit at stoplights now.
     
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  5. ufnavy06

    ufnavy06 New Member

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    The MAC LT make good power and I've had mine on for over a year and a half. No issues. Sounds good too.
     
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  6. CRoberts91

    CRoberts91 Member

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    i didnt know bamachips had one of those packages. i'll probably go with that since i already have bamachips tunes. what all is involved in the cam install? i am mechanically inclined but all i've done so far is swap out my axle-backs and put in a cold air kit.
     
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  7. Easley

    Easley New Member

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    There's a lot of write ups on the net and even a video somewhere. If you installed a cam on a pushrod engine before this is alot easier. I didn't even get dirty. Check around on the forums there are a few that will loan you the special tools or even sell them at a better price than new. It took me 5hrs from opening the hood to starting it up. I don't have hardly any tools, didn't have the special tools, it was snowing and freezing in my garage. Most of that time was trying to find a timing mark on my balancer, second guessing myself and trying to fix a bad cam phaser that flew apart on me. It's extremely easy if you have some understanding of engines. It pains me to see people pay money to have someone else do it.
     
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  8. hren59

    hren59 New Member

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    The installation of the hot rods is very straight forward. You need the special valve spring compressor and timing chain wedge though. The tools are expensive,and the valve spring compressor is completely necessary. The $90 timing chain wedge seems like a real rip off but i don't recommend trying to improvise that tool, I think knocking the timing off and a generally sloppy install is why some people have poor results from these cams. My car runs very strong with these cams on a custom brenspeed tune. I haven't even really felt the need for a dyno tune. You'll probably like them.


    EDIT: wow, I didn't even read the post above mine. My post is in no way shape or form intended to dispute Easley's methods. Just saying that the special tools help a lot.
     
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  9. ufnavy06

    ufnavy06 New Member

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    So who's got the best price currently on the FRPP HRs? My car just turned 3 and she needs a late bday present. Seems about $800 is the norm.... and that is for both cams right? (I feel like that might be a stupid question, but hey whatever.)

    And any word on the applicability of the HR with a S/C? I've thought about the combo for the nice idle sound, the S/C whine at WOT and obviously the power gains.
     
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  10. black2010

    black2010 New Member

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  11. MattyS83

    MattyS83 New Member

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    I've had Comp Stage III cams for a year now; it actually was nowhere near as lopey as i thought it would be. However, I just opened up the exhaust and with the idle speed set low at 650, it gave me the sound i was looking for. Very lopey, actually shakes the car a little at idle.
     
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