computer numbers??

[egnorant]

I am heading back to the scrapyard to search their pile of computers.
My main goal is a 5 speed computer for my 91 which currently has an automatic computer.
Does anyone know the correct code for this computer???
Also any other computers I could pick up?
I am up on most of the turbo 2.3 codes (LA, PE,PC,PF,PK,TA,TE,TF,ZBA,ZBG)
I found an LA3 sitting on top when I was in a hurry and a quick scan scored me a LB2 also.
I know the automatic computer works with the 5 speed but it will not allow me to do what I wish.
Thanks

Bruce

 

[egnorant]

Anyone?

1991 2.3 8 plug 5 speed computer number?

Bruce

 

[RustBucket]

What is it you wish to do that the auto ECU won't do with in a 5spd environment?

 

[egnorant]

My plan.

Primarily I wish to read codes.
Reading codes, I cannot get past the key-off codes that relate to shift solenoid
malfunctions.
The car does have some running problems that I could thrash around at until I stumble on the correct problem, but I wish to start with a better understanding of what is going on.
Among the problems I am looking at are: intermittant high idle, bogs beyond half throttle, poor cold startup, occasional backfire (pop) on acceleration.
I am anal and cheap!
I want to do it corrctly and not just pour money and time onto it blindly.

I am a firm believer in reading codes and understanding the problem.
3 examples have convinced me.
1. Boss spent $550 TRYING to get his Mustang running right....Read codes, changes a temp sender and he was good to go.
2. Bosses sister bought a car that started running badly and asked for warrenty work to fix.
Dealer reported a cracked head due to overheating that was not warrenty work and wanted $700 to fix.
Code revealed a bad O2 sensor and they fixed....no charge.
3. Some relative (sister-in-laws sister) had a bad running car.
Shop diagnosis was bad spark control unit??!! $400 to fix.
Code test was misfire cyl. 3. An hour of checking showed no fuel to number 3.
Injector cleaner fixed it right up!! Later on pulled and cleaned and they tested great.

But mostly bcause I'm just anal and like things to be right.

Bruce

P.S. f1zz-12a650-ab manual
f1zz-12a650-bb auto
both non cali
I finally found soeone with the info!!

 

[RustBucket]

I agree with your philosophy to a great extent. However there are some things that the old EEC-IV ecu never sees that create driveability and operational issues. These problems never throw a code, but they'll certainly drive one to drink.

If the only code you see during KOEO is the shift solenoid code, that's the only code there. It's not getting in the way of the "real" trouble. EEC-IV is capable of storing multiple codes. It does this sometimes for the same problem. Most who've owned a DIS motor can tell the story of intermittent CEL and improper tach readings and stored codes 223 and 224 which point to the coils. The real problem is usually the DIS module. So for every "computer got it right" story, there's typically a "computer got it wrong" story to balance it out.

The ECU is a great troubleshooting tool. There's no doubt about that. Just remember, the diagnostic aspect of the computer is only as good as the manufacturer's engineers felt it needed to be or could make it be given the technology of its day.

Enough babbling, back to trying to help.


Have you run a KOER test yet?

 

[egnorant]

tried..

I did run the KOER test but got no results. It was a while back but it would not read.
When I start the car the check engine light comes on after about 30 seconds.
Does this idleing, or driving so I cannot think it is the solenoid problem lighting the light.
Has been running much better with the cooler and damp conditions lately.

I do have enough used parts to rebuild the entire car 3 times over so I may do some "parts with initials instead of names" swapping Just to see if anything changes.

I am setting this up for a young lady to drive, so I want to have things right.

Bruce

 

[RustBucket]

Young ladies should never be stranded.

I'm with you all the way!

Has the CEL come on since the 5spd swap or did it just start? Without being there to look at the car I'll be asking some pretty stupid questions.

What I'm getting at is that the code behind the CEL could be the OD solenoid being non-existent(the one you keep seeing). The trouble with the car could be one of those things outside the scope of EEC-IV diagnostics. The CEL being on is a coincidence more than an indication. Here's another kicker: An erroneous sensor may still be within the normal range of operation(therefore no CEL or code), and still be wrong for current running conditions.

Is is it backfiring through the exhaust (rich condition)or popping back through the intake(lean condition) ?
What condition are the vacuum lines?
Is the MAF gunked up? (It's one of those sensors that can stay within range, but be wrong) It can be cleaned relatively cost free and is a quick and easy check/fix.

From what you posted earlier, I think you may be hunting down the cause of a lean condition.

I'll help as long as you want me to.

 

[egnorant]

Thanks

Actually the light was on before I did the swap.
The tranny had lost all OD function but still had 1-2-3 if I put it in drive (not OD).

Popping is through the exhaust.
Tuesday is the garage day for this car and I am getting my plan down tommorrow.
Vacuum lines are fine as this was one of the things checked hard during the swap.
I'll let you know what I discover!

Bruce

 

[RustBucket]

Check the coolant temp sensor. Sounds odd, but hear me out. We know that the ECU looks at coolant temp to determine if the engine is cold or up to operating temperature. When the CTS reports cold, the ECU increases the amount of fuel delivered much like a choke does on a carburetor. It does this until the engine reaches a given temp. If the CTS is faulty, it may be telling the ECU that the engine is still cold even when it's not, keeping the "choke" on.

I've reread your earlier posts and you mentioned it ran better in cooler weather. If the engine stays cooler longer then the bad sensor is correct longer. Kinda like a broken clock being right twice a day.

After that I'd check the MAF, fuel pressure regulator(check the vacuum line for fuel odor indicative of a bad diaphragm), and the condition of the plug wires.

Happy hunting!

 

[egnorant]

Will do!

Temp sender is first on the list.
My gauge even reads low. Earlier I had a small leak in the radiator and had a good 2 row from a 5.0 lying around so I used it. Heater works fine so I know it is warming up properly.

Bruce

 

[egnorant]

Sucess

Since I was lucky enough to buy a whole pile of new parts that fit this car with another car I bought...I went with swap a part and see what happens.
Temp sending unit..gauge reading changed, but no help in running better.
DIS unit...Bingo, no lights runs better, accurate tach. Still a bit sluggish.
New Catilytic converter, O2 sensor.....bog is gone and will actually chirp second.
New plugs, wires and air cleaner element....While I was in there!!
New shocks, struts, brakes, lower front arms and rack unit were also replaced.
New set of tires and fixed the power window switches.
Feels like a new car!! Gonna do the rear bushings and a new top next week.
Got all these parts except the brakes,tires, top, rearbushings, plug wires and temp sender with a $400 91 notch 5 speed with a blown head gasket (claimed!) so I don't feel too bad about changing a lot of stuff.
Now I have something to put the turbo motor into!!!
I just realized that I also have the correct computer that I have not swapped yet!!

Bruce