Connect RollBar to Subframes ???

Is there any reason NOT to connect the rollbar to the subframes? I've searched this topic and didn't find anything on it.

I don't like how the rollbar's main hoop is welded to the floorboards, that doesn't sit well with me. So I was thinking, why not tie in the rollbar to the subframes... sure there's a extra hole in the floorboard, but some black silicon could fix that...

Anybody see anything wrong with this logic?

BTW: I just bought MM full length powdercoated connectors.
 
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i can't see why doing this would be a problem. If it was me, i would weld a plate onto the SFC and use that as your bottom plate through the floor with the cage being the top. if that makes sense.

but then again, i don't have any rollcage experience.....
 
i can't see why doing this would be a problem. If it was me, i would weld a plate onto the SFC and use that as your bottom plate through the floor with the cage being the top. if that makes sense.

but then again, i don't have any rollcage experience.....


That is a very good idea, I didn't even think of that. Many "pinch" the floorboard with two metal plates... it wouldn't be very hard to connect another plate on the bottomside since I only connected the main hoop to the floorboard via a plate on the topside.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I have no idea how I'm going to do it. I'll be working with the guy that painted my car and he's real good at working with metal. So I'm sure between the two of us we'll come up with something. This might not happen till February though since I've decided to do a little more engine work right now.
 
Cool, thanks for the responses guys... I'm sure we'll come up with something now... probably either

1. run a bar through the floor to connect to the main hoop
2. just weld a plate from the subs to the bottomside of the floorboard of where the mainhoop attatches to the floorboard, so it basically pinches the floorboard.

Not sure if I like the easy way (#2), so we'll see what he thinks.
 
Attaching the rollbar hoop to the floorpan will most likely provide you with the proper amount of roll protection you seek.

I personally would take the opportunity to connect it throught the floorpan and into the subframes in order to take advantage of the additional rigidity found in connecting everything together.

Why take the easy route when it comes to safety. Especially since you've come this far.
 
I probably did... but I just bought the MM full lengths

The through the floor SFC seem really inconvenient too, not for the driver, but passenger and rear. But nobody is ever going to sit in the back again.

Other than convenience, do the through the floor SFC really provide a great increase in rigidity over normal SFCs? I can see that it would have to be a weld seam to the floorboard the whole length... but are there any other major mounting points that are included? I can see benefits in ground clearance and routing for side pipes...

(I'm actually unfamiliar with the mounting points of SFC in general so I really don't know either way)
 
I recently installed a 6 point in my car. I didnt/still dont have SFC's on my car (thought I have some sitting in the garage waiting to go in). The usual kits come with plates that you weld to the floor. I put them in the way the instructions told me. The plates tie in to the rear bulkhead making them really strong. With the entire cage in the car it is 1000X more rigid than the regular body...it pulls both wheels now instead of twisting and only pulling one wheel off the ground.

I dont know if the main hoop is the correct width to tie into SFC's on the pre bent ones...I will be welding in 2 more legs to attach to the SFC's after they go in though...

I guess what I am trying to say is I have had no bad experiences with regular weld plates.
 
Hmm, that's a good point... the main hoop might not even be over the location the sfc will lay. Although I would think that the 6x6" plate under the main hoop would extend to their location. Again, I don't really know where the sfc mounting location is.

Too bad I didn't think about those throught the floor ones... well, I did but I shrugged them off for some reason.

I think I'm going to bring some extra piping to be able to do what you're (SQEEZE&STROKE) are saying. b/c it is a possibility, more like a probability at this point.
 
Most good chassis shops will connect the roll bar to the subframes (through the floor subframes are easier to do this with), so I'd definitely say to go for it.

If I remember correctly, you've got Global West full lengths and a 4pt chromoly bar... Is there a reason you didn't do this? Or have you?

I'm going to guess and say it's b/c you would have had to weld to the chromoly.
 
If I remember correctly, you've got Global West full lengths and a 4pt chromoly bar... Is there a reason you didn't do this? Or have you?

I'm going to guess and say it's b/c you would have had to weld to the chromoly.

I do have GW full lengths, but my roll bar is a thin chrome plates steel unit from holley that is bolted to the the floor and bolted together. It will be replaced soon for a legal chrome moly bar.

I will tell you that everyone I know with roll bars have not attached them to their subframe connectors. Most just welded the 6X6 plate to the floor and then the bar to it. That's it. My buddy Mike with a mid 9 second fox actually has his bolted in, but its done to NHRA specs so its legal. It involved putting plates above and below the floor boards and sandwiching the two together. This way he can remove it if I doesn't want it in the car anymore.