convertible subframe connectors

CochinoFilipino

Founding Member
Jan 14, 2002
171
2
19
CA
Do they make a big diference in a convertible? Convertibles already have additional support running along the rocker (like doubling the rocker). They also have torque boxes, another support running under the seat pans, and these seat supports are tied together with a plate, the seat riser on top is also one piece connecting both sides together. So how beneficial are subframe connectors in a convertible?
 
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I put them in my car and the difference was like night and day. Way better with connectors. However, the body of my car is really rusty and I was worried the thing would fall in half! :D So your mileage may vary.

If the back of your car skips sideways when you hit a bump going around a corner, I'm going to guess that subframe connectors will help. That is the biggest change I noticed. It makes the car a lot more reassuring to drive. Now even with all the rust my car is solid and sticks to corners, even bumpy ones.
 
Even with the additional bracing a convertible has, it's no where near as strong as a coupe or fastback. The roof plays an important role in a uni-body frame.

Sub frames make a huge diference in coupes and convertibles. I've never tried them on a FB. Export braces and monte carlo bars should be manditory also. These are cheap bolt ons you will feel just driving down the street.

I've got Global West SFCs on my current car. I'm still going to be welding in some additional gussets. I wish Maier had convertible SFCs a couple of years ago. Their version looks real nice.
 
My concern is the loss of ground clearance. On a convertible the SFC go under the seat bracing that is unique to convertibles. I don't think I want to cut through the seat brace to install the hardtop type of SFC.

I was thinking that the convertible inner rockers are probably as stiff as a SFC. But I suppose it's placement and/or method of attachement may not be as effective.
 
Just click on the paperclip

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"Cut the subfloor, Mick!"

"You don't want to do it, kid!"

"Cut it."

It's what Rocky woulda done. That, and pound raw meat. :-D Here is a pic of the Tinman subframes going through my floor. I like how it turned out. If you ever wanted to go back to stock, you could buy another set of subfloor pans, remove the subframes, and cut and weld them in. Not too huge of a deal. Here is the final result with Tinman subframes. I seriously think joining the subframes together to the unibody amidships goes a long way:

http://web.mac.com/jbauder/iweb/6970clutchpedals/tinmansubframes.html
 
i installed maier racing subs in my 65 convertible after i completed the resto. Made a huge difference. My headers hang down the same amount at the sub frames...so clearance was not compromised. Well worth the time to install.

Mike
 
I believe that weld-in are way better than bolt in connectors. I had bolt-in connectors on my '83, and they help, but the body still tweaks quite a bit. I could tell in that car because the T-tops would leak additional air when I really got on it. The bolts always allow extra room for everything to move. Plus the bolts are going to crush the ends of the subframes if you tighten them securely. However, they did keep the car from folding completely in half when granny hit me. :rolleyes:

As far as clearance goes, my '70 is lowered quite a bit in front and my GW connectors bottom out on the ground all the time. It's annoying. I'd like to lower the back some, but I need lower profile connectors to do that. The next time I'd rather put something that is tighter up against the floor of the car, possibly through the floor. Unless your car is a Boss 302 or something similarly rare, I wouldn't be concerned about doing it.
 
I will have an AOD so I'll have to see how the exhaust goes. If I can get the exhaust tucked up in the tunnel I will plan to do what 70vert did with his SFC. Thanks for the input.

I got my 2 1/2" dual exhaust with the 3" Aluminum driveshaft all tucked up under the plate without spacers. Plenty of room. I even did the work myself, so I am sure a pro can do it easily. I just did not want to pay $400 for the job, plus materials.

I am getting the sFc's mocked up and will be welding everything up like 70vert did as well. Nice.
 
I got my 2 1/2" dual exhaust with the 3" Aluminum driveshaft all tucked up under the plate without spacers. Plenty of room. I even did the work myself, so I am sure a pro can do it easily. I just did not want to pay $400 for the job, plus materials.

I am getting the sFc's mocked up and will be welding everything up like 70vert did as well. Nice.

:nice: Did you get your cross-over in? And do you have any pics?
 
I don't have an ETA. I just do little things here and there when I get the chance. Testing and fitting the EFI harness is next on my list. But that's after I get some of my house projects out of the way. :(
 
I just did some photos of the 3-link mid-installation, but there are photos of the subframe connectors in there as well: (yes, the exhaust will end up being re-routed under the plate, or I might have a custom plate made that dips down in the middle)

http://gallery.mac.com/jbauder#100048

:nice: I'm in the Bay Area too, mid-peninsula. Now update your sig.

And do you guys mean OVER the plate (inside the tunnel)? I probably won't do a crossover but want to clarify anyway.
 
:nice: I'm in the Bay Area too, mid-peninsula. Now update your sig.

And do you guys mean OVER the plate (inside the tunnel)? I probably won't do a crossover but want to clarify anyway.

Yes I went up over the plate into the tunnel. I will post some pictures tomorrow. Picking up the P/S bracket in the morning so I will be over at the garage anyway. I'll get some pics of the engine compartment as well.

'til tomorrow then