Cooling Question

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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In the garage
Sorry for the post on what may seem obvious but it's Monday morning and my head isn't in it today. Anyway, car has stock clutch fan, replacement stock water pump, stock shroud and replacement stock Modine radiator. Everything was fine but a few days ago after sitting for a few days the temp gauge went almost to 1/2 way up before coming down to normal. Thought maybe air in the system after 2 days it was fine. It seems to be running slightly higher than normal since in stop and go. The temp will drop at speed but go back up at stop. The car sat again for a day and this morning the temp gauge went to 1/2 way and dropped slightly but stayed higher. Pulled over., lifted the hood and noticed the following

no coolant leaks
no weeping from H20 pump
all hoses and belts OK
overlflow has coolant
upper rad hose hot so stat opening
no visible leaks or hissing noises to indicate leaks
No visible obstructions in front of the condensor
Cap tight

One thing I did notice about the clutch fan was the edge of some blades looked as if they had black crap on them and the fan itself spun rather freely. There was some resistance but not much. Funny when I restarted the car the temp gauge came right down to normal. I know these gauges are terrible but my guess is the clutch fan or maybe the cap is bad.
 
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Well, cooling when the car is moving, but not when sitting still points to lack of airflow from the fan.

Above 40 mph or so, the incoming air cools the engine without the fan.
The fan is what cools the engine at lower speeds... So it sounds like your clutch fan might be failing.
Maybe when you 'joggled' the fan, it caused it to temporarily function a bit better.
The fan has black crap on the blades either because something is leaking from the clutch, or it isn't spinning fast enough to sling off normal grime.
 
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^^ Agreed. I recently stuffed a fan from a Mercury Villagar in my stock shroud to I could retain OEM appearance. I haven't got everything put back together but it's a rather large fan with a low/high speed.
 
These cars must be psychic or something. I guess there is a reason now to swap in the Taurus fan I have ready to go.lol

Thanks guys.. Just going to baby it til the weekend when I can put it in.
 
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These cars must be psychic or something. I guess there is a reason now to swap in the Taurus fan I have ready to go.lol

Thanks guys.. Just going to baby it til the weekend when I can put it in.

Baby it?! WTF... mine seems to run better when I beat the crap out of it and drive it like a Ford ;)

JK, and I am surprised you don't have the Taurus fan on already. I have seen you post about it before, just thought you would have gotten to it already :p

GL with the install!
 
I am going to chime in and ask a related question.

I got a EPIC craigslist deal, which included: a stock fan with a working fan clutch, along with a 94/95 mustang radiator and the electric fan still on it, all for free. Along with many other parts not listed.

I've read other places that the 94/95 radiator won't fit without a bit of modification, so I won't bother with that. I was told, however, that the electric fan would be a drop in fit.

Is this correct? Or should I just sell the 94/95 radiator (since I got it for free), and put the stock fan w/ working clutch in, since my current fan clutch is shot?
 
^^ Agreed. I recently stuffed a fan from a Mercury Villagar in my stock shroud to I could retain OEM appearance. I haven't got everything put back together but it's a rather large fan with a low/high speed.


Boost,
I got the same fan from the Mercury Villager! I look at a buch of fans in the JY for best fit and that one stood out. As I told Mike, I don't know about the amp draw, but I have a 130 amp alternator anyway. I won't be able to hook my efan up for a bit because I still have the nose off the car down to the front frame - I'm paint everything before I do my big A/C assembly. Tried to get intouch with the folks at DCControls to see what my options were for any of their fan contorlers coupled to this Mercury Villager fan. Heck, those folks are ellussive for business people. No phone # to call!
 
I am going to chime in and ask a related question.

I got a EPIC craigslist deal, which included: a stock fan with a working fan clutch, along with a 94/95 mustang radiator and the electric fan still on it, all for free. Along with many other parts not listed.

I've read other places that the 94/95 radiator won't fit without a bit of modification, so I won't bother with that. I was told, however, that the electric fan would be a drop in fit.

Is this correct? Or should I just sell the 94/95 radiator (since I got it for free), and put the stock fan w/ working clutch in, since my current fan clutch is shot?



Gearhead, I'd stick with the efean from the 95 if you want to lighten things up around the motor. Just know you need a few other things to go with it like: the efan controller that I just mentoned above. Or, you could just go with a hard-it on your alternator current and use just a relay set-up coupled to the 95 efan. If you don't have an upgraded alternator for an efan, just forget it! go with the stock clutch fan setup.
This efan stuff is for us guys who have more money, time, and brains than we know what to do with.:stick: I did say we had more brains:shrug:
 
Baby it?! WTF... mine seems to run better when I beat the crap out of it and drive it like a Ford ;)

JK, and I am surprised you don't have the Taurus fan on already. I have seen you post about it before, just thought you would have gotten to it already :p

GL with the install!

LOL.. yeah it was supposed to go on last weekend but life happens. The car isn't running HOT, just warmer than normal. It cools down when you start accelerating but creeps back up when stop and go. I'll post some pics of the install to prove I actually did it... lol
 
I am going to chime in and ask a related question.

I got a EPIC craigslist deal, which included: a stock fan with a working fan clutch, along with a 94/95 mustang radiator and the electric fan still on it, all for free. Along with many other parts not listed.

I've read other places that the 94/95 radiator won't fit without a bit of modification, so I won't bother with that. I was told, however, that the electric fan would be a drop in fit.

Is this correct? Or should I just sell the 94/95 radiator (since I got it for free), and put the stock fan w/ working clutch in, since my current fan clutch is shot?

If your cooling system is fine now, I am a firm believer in don't fix what isn't broke. The stock clutch fan and shroud works fine for many people. If your existing clutch fan is bad then you can either simply replace that and call it a day or install the SN95 efan.

Many people use the 94/95 efan in the fox body. It doesn't pull as much CFM as the taurus or mkvii fan but it is a vast improvement over the stocker. You can wire it up with many of the controllers available.
 
Boost,
I got the same fan from the Mercury Villager! I look at a buch of fans in the JY for best fit and that one stood out. As I told Mike, I don't know about the amp draw, but I have a 130 amp alternator anyway. I won't be able to hook my efan up for a bit because I still have the nose off the car down to the front frame - I'm paint everything before I do my big A/C assembly. Tried to get intouch with the folks at DCControls to see what my options were for any of their fan contorlers coupled to this Mercury Villager fan. Heck, those folks are ellussive for business people. No phone # to call!

1200gt, I purchased a Flex-a-lite VSC from Summit to control my Villager fan. I did a bunch of searching for amp draw on the Villager fan but never really found much out. I posted the below thread, and got a response that a rule of thumb is 1 amp per inch of fan diameter for normal operation, and double that for startup. Since the Flex-a-lite VSC doesn't start the fan from 0-100% the in-rush current isn't as huge of a deal.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...amps-does-a-mercury-villager-fan-pull.864863/
 
Well, cooling when the car is moving, but not when sitting still points to lack of airflow from the fan.

Above 40 mph or so, the incoming air cools the engine without the fan.
The fan is what cools the engine at lower speeds... So it sounds like your clutch fan might be failing.
Maybe when you 'joggled' the fan, it caused it to temporarily function a bit better.
The fan has black crap on the blades either because something is leaking from the clutch, or it isn't spinning fast enough to sling off normal grime.
I had this problem before. Fan spins freely, same symptoms. Electric fan fixed the problem.
 
Boost,
I got the same fan from the Mercury Villager! I look at a buch of fans in the JY for best fit and that one stood out. As I told Mike, I don't know about the amp draw, but I have a 130 amp alternator anyway. I won't be able to hook my efan up for a bit because I still have the nose off the car down to the front frame - I'm paint everything before I do my big A/C assembly. Tried to get intouch with the folks at DCControls to see what my options were for any of their fan contorlers coupled to this Mercury Villager fan. Heck, those folks are ellussive for business people. No phone # to call!

There are a lot of guys who swear by DCC controllers. I do not doubt the quality of their product, as they have a great reputation, but a company that will not return my emails or answers questions is a company that I will not buy from. That was my experience with them. I ended up doing a dual relay setup, which is triggered by a temp switch mounted in the thermostat housing. I have also heard good things about the Flexalite controller mentioned above.

My .02.

Joe
 
Mike has been advising me on the Flex-a-lite (F-VSC) , as a few others have chosen it as well. I kinda wanted to get the best one out there because I plan to keep the car forever, and I will drive it daily; maybe not so much for work commutes, but not wanting to do the return-shipment -thing too often.

Jrichker, on this site, has been invaluable with helping on many issues and I have come to respect and desire his inputs. He listed the DCC as #1 in quality and the other brand SPAL as #2. The F-VSC, where it comes to popularity poles, using most purchased as a guide, seems to win the test hands-down. My other hold-up on the F-VSC was due to a write-up on corral where a member did an exposition on the Flex-a-lite and noted issues with temp regulating because of the type of temp. sensor probe use in the F-VSC set-up.

Still no return email from the folks at DCC, so I think they are out of the hunt for me. Unless I get an email today with amens.
 
1200gt, I purchased a Flex-a-lite VSC from Summit to control my Villager fan. I did a bunch of searching for amp draw on the Villager fan but never really found much out. I posted the below thread, and got a response that a rule of thumb is 1 amp per inch of fan diameter for normal operation, and double that for startup. Since the Flex-a-lite VSC doesn't start the fan from 0-100% the in-rush current isn't as huge of a deal.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...amps-does-a-mercury-villager-fan-pull.864863/


Thanks Boost for that info on the Merc Villager fan. There was some good tech info that I just love there.... I have to assume your F-VSC and Villager fan install went well. Did you run into any snaggs??? Especially with locating the probe near the Villager shroud? I wanted to link this guys write up on corral but not sure about rules on here about linking other stang sites; but I found that info really helpful and specific to the F-VSC.

I'll list the link if its OK.
 
Haha, I haven't installed it yet. Hopefully next week. I'm working to get my lower intake installed first then I'll move on to the fan and VSC.

If nothing else, PM me the link just so I can breeze through it and see if there is anything useful. I'll be documenting my install on my build thread, so check that out in a couple weeks for some updates.
 
Haha, I haven't installed it yet. Hopefully next week. I'm working to get my lower intake installed first then I'll move on to the fan and VSC.

If nothing else, PM me the link just so I can breeze through it and see if there is anything useful. I'll be documenting my install on my build thread, so check that out in a couple weeks for some updates.

PM'd you the link. Let's yak about it later - maybe start a dedicated thread on it if non exist on here...