Engine Coyote 5.0 Engine Issues

Blk_Knight_2012

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Aug 8, 2012
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I have been looking through these post last couple of days and wondering about the engine issues or failure on the new Coyote 5.0. Mine is a 2012 GT Premium bought in Aug 2011 as a 2012 model and had 4.2k miles when all my issues started.
So far I have experienced the "knocking noise" which was a spun bearing a now I have a new long block installed. When the knocking noise started I check the oil and it was 4qts low...not sure where it went and yes I had checked it a few times before the knocking noise and swear I was good on the dip stick. I still think this was a primary cause of failure but I did not see to many other low oil issues noted. Picked up the car and now fighting the CEL issues: First was caused by loose spark plugs, now they are going after the Tone Ring for the Crank position Sensor (CKP?). My symptoms were the same as another poster saying ran okay when CEL was steady but as soon as it started flashing I felt the running rough or misfire of the engine. The CEL would go steady on and the engine smoothed out but CEL stays on.
Dealer taking care of everything well so I am satisfied with their effort...just frustrated with the issues right now. I see there is some Ford Cust Srv participation so with all the expertice here I was hoping for some advice or confirmation on what others are seeing.
 
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Bought my 12 in October of 11, build date May of 2011 5k miles no issues even with all these mods:


2012 GT Premium, 6 speed manual, 3:31 Gears Ford Racing Strut bar, Steeda sport springs, Steeda heavy duty strut mounts, Takico D-spec adjustable struts and shocks, MGW Shifter, Roush Axle Backs...Bassani x pipe, shaft masters aluminum drive shaft and a Steeda Cold Air Intake ,with steeda 93 octane tune. Amsoil signature series 5w-20 synthetic motor oil, Amsoil Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90...
2012 GT Premium, 6 speed manual, 3:31 Gears Ford Racing Strut bar, Steeda sport springs, steeda heavy duty strut mounts, Takico D-spec adjustable struts and shocks,MGW Shifter, Roush Axle Backs...Bassani 3" x pipe, shaft masters aluminum drive shaft and a Steeda Cold Air Intake ,with steeda 93 octane tune. Amsoil signature series synthetic 5w 20 motor oil, and Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4 (MTG) in the tranny.
2012 GT Premium, 6 speed manual, 3:31 Gears Ford Racing Strut bar, Steeda sport springs, steeda heavy duty strut mounts, Takico D-spec adjustable struts and shocks,MGW Shifter, Roush Axle Backs...Bassani 3" x pipe, shaft masters aluminum drive shaft and a Steeda Cold Air Intake ,with steeda 93 octane tune. Amsoil signature series synthetic 5w 20 motor oil, and Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4 (MTG) in the tranny.
 
The secondary issues sound like the dealer didn't put all the sensors, and wires, and stuff back on right.

On the bright side, they are covering it. Be polite and patient with them, because given that your engine failed because you ran it out of oil, they very easily could have denied a warranty claim.
 
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The secondary issues sound like the dealer didn't put all the sensors, and wires, and stuff back on right.

On the bright side, they are covering it. Be polite and patient with them, because given that your engine failed because you ran it out of oil, they very easily could have denied a warranty claim.
these things hold 8 quarts so it didn't run dry..
 
4 quarts low is enough to cause oil starvation, even with an an 8 quart sump. These suckers eat oil like mad when fresh, and tighten up with some miles on them. Mine used about 3 quarts in the first few thousand miles. Changed out the factory fill, (such as it was since I'd been adding so much) for 5W30 Quaker State dino at about 3500 miles and it hasn't burned hardly any since.
 
yes it could happen...but being the pump is so close to the bottom of the pan and unless he was corner carving or racing it it's very possible it's ok...i hate these low tension rings they use with the finish honing in them
 
It's real possible. The oil doesn't just sit there in the pan it's all around the engine and removing half of it could easily starve high demand areas and result in engine damage, even not corner carving or racing.
 
Thanks for the feedback...the car is back on the road and no more CEL's. Put a couple hundred miles on it and no issues. I will be watching the oil more closely this time around to see if it really consumes that much since the engine is new.
Based on your comments sounsd like I should expect some loss as the rings set and get more hours on the engine.