crappy alternator?

winter just hit us out here in colorado and i noticed a bad problem last nite! when i'm driving with the headlights and defrosters on, my battery gauge goes to the lowest "good" mark. the guy i bought the car from told me he just replaced the alternator with a stock replacment, 75 amp, but should i go with the 3G 130amp swap? if so, what all will i need to do this. i don't want to get stuck some night because i had to defrost my windows :/
 
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Nate, check out Jrichker's post about the upgrade. Both of the links he provides (Monte Smith's and MustangCentral, IIRC) do a very good job of depicting what needs to be done.

It is a simply swap involving running a new power cable and splicing your stator wire. JR also has a post about what parts to use from Parts Express - I used what he outlined. Worked very well.
Also, PA Performance sells wiring upgrade kits if you dont feel comfy tackling the wiring (it is quite simplistic though).

Good luck.
 
Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584

Don’t forget the alternator power ground!!!
The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. Any car that has a 3G alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
 
I find often that underdrive pullies can cause these issues...going back to the stock alt pulley can help the cars charging at idle and running with accessories on. However the alt upgrade is without a doubt the best approach to worry free charging. If I had not gotten a fantastic deal on my chrome 75amp alt I would have upgraded. As of now I run too low for my liking at idle and will have to go back to the stock pulley. Good luck and keep us posted on the upgrade.