Cutch problems

Clutch Problems

Today the clutch pedal gave a bang and went down to the floor ... where it stuck. This was when we were going out to meet freinds for lunch :mad: I checked it out and what had happened was the clutch release rod had made a hole in the release lever and jammed around 1 1/2 inches through the lever. After 50 mins of rooting around under the car and burning myself on heads, headers etc. (all in direct sun of 40+ degrees C.) I managed to jury rig the clutch by putting a nut on the end of the rod to stop it going through again ... it got us home anyway :) . I can't remeber though if the clutch release lever (fork) is removable without taking the tranny out ... any advice ?? Or should I just get the hole in the fork welded up and ground to shape in situ ?? Last time I had the tranny out I struggled for the best part of a day with the car on axle stands trying to get it back in .... and finished up pulling the motor, mating the 2 up and putting them back as a unit.
Any help appreciated ..... also is this a common problem??
 
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Went down to the garage to look at old 1 piece Cobra scattershield I still have with original 65 fork still in it - it would not be removable in the car. If you have a 2 piece Bell housing you might be able to remove the fork. My thoughts are with Pabear - weld repair it (inplace) and drive it. Next time you remove/ristl trans get some allthread or same size mounting bolts just 3-4 inches longer and cut the heads off of them. Install these bolts in top 2 mounting holes of Bell housing. Lift up trans & place on these 2 bolts - makes for lot easier install. I also cut a slot with hacksaw in the end of the 2 bolts to aid in removal. Transmission jacks also work but really aren't necessary. I also like to put on an old front yoke from a drive shaft to keep the oil in and allow you to turn the input shaft if need be to line up with clutch splines.
 
Bonestock2k said:
Went down to the garage to look at old 1 piece Cobra scattershield I still have with original 65 fork still in it - it would not be removable in the car. If you have a 2 piece Bell housing you might be able to remove the fork. My thoughts are with Pabear - weld repair it (inplace) and drive it. Next time you remove/ristl trans get some allthread or same size mounting bolts just 3-4 inches longer and cut the heads off of them. Install these bolts in top 2 mounting holes of Bell housing. Lift up trans & place on these 2 bolts - makes for lot easier install. I also cut a slot with hacksaw in the end of the 2 bolts to aid in removal. Transmission jacks also work but really aren't necessary. I also like to put on an old front yoke from a drive shaft to keep the oil in and allow you to turn the input shaft if need be to line up with clutch splines.
Good advice here, but I'll add this: get a pair of old small block head bolts (the long ones, maybe four are better) and remove their heads. These make dandy alignment dowels to slide the transmission in. They also work to align an automatic trans to the block as well.