Decided to look for an explorer motor.

[The Green GT]

What are the best years? Is it the P heads that you have to get certain headers for to clear the spark plugs? Cause I dont want those (unless they are the highest flowing). And what cam would go best with a set of ported explorer heads and a ported explorer intake and how much power could I be expecting?
Thanks

 

[95opal]

97 1/2 and newer came with the P heads and yes they flow better then the earlier 40s. As far as cam goes do some searching and see what others are running with similar set ups.

 

[The Green GT]

The P heads are the one with the special headers right?

 

[tjh566]

yes, but some have goten away without special headers.

 

['66 coupe]

The P heads are the one with the special headers right?

I have a P engine sitting on a stand at my college house. I held the stock '95 headers up to it and the runners for 5&6 totally sit on top of the spark plugs.
Some people modify(dent) their headers to work, use shorter spark plugs, and/or use 90* wire boots. I'd just plan on buying the special headers and be done with it. Pretty sure MAC and other brands make the headers you'll need.

Mines going in my '66 so I'm just converting it to a '66 setup(carb., belts, oilpickup)
and using HiPo manifolds because they work easily.

 

[Blackened302]

glad i bought the P-spec headers--i have enough to worry about w/ the new set-up.

 

['66 coupe]

What's the point in swapping to a P engine?

Are you all just swapping in low-mileage engines with minimal mods? Are you all just leaving the bottom end alone?
This is what I'm doing with mine, low-mileage engine, turns fine manually, so I'm just gonna drop it in.

I was just wondering cause that seems like the only logical reason for this swap; to get a low mileage engine that flows better.
If you're rebuilding/refurbishing the engine(replacing rings, bearings, bolts), wouldn't it be only slightly more expensive to get a ~'90 shortblock and an affordable set of aluminium heads?

 

[Blackened302]

i did it for a couple reasons:
1. obviously, more hp/torque
2. half as many miles as mine had

i took the time to put in a cam + matching springs, some ARP rod bolts and an ARP oil pump driveshaft.

i just felt better modding an engine w/ 70k as opposed to mine w/ 160+k. way more piece of mind with a slightly newer and more capable (my goal is street/track) driveline.

it gives you a better starting point, i think, too.

 

[95five-oh]

i did it for a couple reasons:
1. obviously, more hp/torque
2. half as many miles as mine had

i took the time to put in a cam + matching springs, some ARP rod bolts and an ARP oil pump driveshaft.

i just felt better modding an engine w/ 70k as opposed to mine w/ 160+k. way more piece of mind with a slightly newer and more capable (my goal is street/track) driveline.

it gives you a better starting point, i think, too.

+1. I'm gonna try and find a 80k miles or less exploder long block this summer if i can. I've got 159k on mine, other than the exploder intake i bought for $70, im not gonna risk any other mods on such a tired engine.

 

['66 coupe]

+1. I'm gonna try and find a 80k miles or less exploder long block this summer if i can. I've got 159k on mine, other than the exploder intake i bought for $70, im not gonna risk any other mods on such a tired engine.

Mine is out of a '98 Mountaineer that had 75k. I paid $375 after tax for the complete engine. I sold the intake on ebay for $125 and it cost me $30 to ship the damn thing. 4 months later I got the '95(which has the stock intake).
I got mine from LKQ, if they have those in your area(I think they're pretty much nationwide). You can usually call them and bargain with the people at the main office in your area.

 

[sage2k]

why not just build your topend up? how many miles do you have?

 

[The Green GT]

why not just build your topend up? how many miles do you have?

Odometer is stuck at 89,XXX
But Id ballpark about 130K.