Engine Deleting Egr Valve On 5.0

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by 95&03GT, May 7, 2007.


  1. 95&03GT

    95&03GT New Member

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    Hey I was wondering I am going to delete the egr valve on my 95 5.0. Now I was looking on ebay and found the simulator, and a delete plate for when you take the egr valve off. also a nut to put on the header. Do you think its worth it? also the only delete plate is for a fow 5.0 will that still work on the 94 and 95 5.0?

    heres the links
    simulator
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-9...020QQitemZ300108076349QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

    header nut
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EGR-...003QQitemZ130109905348QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

    delete plate for fox
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EGR-...003QQitemZ130109905352QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

    also do you know where I can just buy it all from one place instead of from 3 different people???
  2. drakesdad

    drakesdad New Member

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    Just my 2 cents.....I've been told by a couple of reputable guys on here......:D that there is no hp gain in this.......and that it has it's place in closed loop or open loop.....so I left mine.....but I saw the same ebay products your looking at and
    thought about them.....now it would clean up the bay a little.......and make those headers easier to get too......anyway...
    good luck with whatever you choose..
    Will
  3. m0l0

    m0l0 Member

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    By all the logic that involves the EGR system there is absolutely no HP gain on removing the EGR, actually you will be looking for some detonation and even a loss of HP in cruise.

    The EGR system inserts NOx ( Nitrogen Oxides, not! NAAWWWS yo! :rlaugh: ) found on the exaust gases to cool the intake temperature ( which also the computers know and increase timing on the engine based on the EGR valve position), and also to help emissions. its a whole system that works together with the AIR pump + the CATS + Canister Evaporation to make this cars greener .

    There is no problem if you remove it (Just check your local emissions laws ) , just if you do it do it in the proper way , to remove the EGR you have to disable the system on the EEC otherwise you will have a high probability of some detonation. Of course to do this you will have to burn a chip or any self tuning method available for the EEC-IV.

    That EGR eliminator plug will only fool the computer to make beleive the EEC that the egr is still there and functioning, thats why when u use that you will not have a trouble code, instead a high probability of ping/knock.


    Please correct me if i am wrong on any information.


    There is more information on many places here is an example

    http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egr.htm
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation


    EDIT :

    Well some ppl delete EGR for looks, but its just vanity EGR system is just a simple tube and the valve. the culprit of all the mess on this cars on the passenger side is the AIR pump ( which you can remove more easily and less problems than the EGR and less trouble with the computer) well if you elminate the AIR just be prepared to your cats to take a dump shortly after.
  4. MI95Cobra

    MI95Cobra New Member

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    their is a nut to put on the egr, don't get the plate it messes with the computer and your check engine lt will come on....but if you get 2 nuts...and cap both off...it'll work just fine....here the site to get them...
    http://www.wazeepulleys.com/9495parts/9495parts.htm
  5. The Green GT

    The Green GT No 13 year olds are safe around me.

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    Dont you need to tune it to get it done RIGHT?
  6. Dante30

    Dante30 New Member

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    I purchased one off of Ebay a few Months ago, I think I wasted my money. I unplugged the egr harness and plugged the device in place. It ran fine at first, but after about a minute or two, it would throw a C.E.L. I tried to reinstall it several times, and it always did the same thing. :shrug:

    The seller (the one I purchased from) on ebay claims to have these devices for many 5.0 mustangs, from probably 86 thru 95 or something. I could be wrong, however, I believe he is selling the same exact part for all years, "ONE SIZE FITS ALL" deal. The device might work fine for earlier fox 5.0, it didn't seem to work on my car. I have a 94gt. The guy has some testimonials that claim to have worked for our cars, I'm just wondering why it didn't work on my car . I have stock engine w/ mostly stock parts except for gears, Pullies, Headers and CAI, which most of us have. If you do get, and it works out, let us all know.
  7. m0l0

    m0l0 Member

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    It throws a code because the plug fakes the sensor, but when the eec sees that there is no movement on the position on the valve with the vacuum it will throw a code
  8. go-stang5.0

    go-stang5.0 New Member

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    I agree with m010...I am running a 10.8:1 compression ratio on 93 octane w/ a stock untuned cpu with no ping (2 yrs now). Even if you get a tune to do it properly, you will still have to run a less agressive timing curve (or do some other power robbing things) vs. leaving it on. I am never taking mine off:D . you shouldent, Especially if your's is still working, dont bother with it. Spend your time and energy elswhere.
  9. GRGT1994

    GRGT1994 New Member

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    I had my car dyno-tuned by Anderson Ford Motorsports, and they recommended deleting the EGR and harness. So I let them delete it and then proceed with the tune. It throws a meaningless CEL now and runs like a banshee with no detonation.
  10. legalize420

    legalize420 Active Member

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    bad idea. the only proper way to do it is by turning it off in the computer.
  11. VIPRETR

    VIPRETR New Member

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    I deleted my EGR last week. You don't need the resistors, I just took the wire connector off the top of the EGR valve(three 7mm bolts I think), folded a beer cap in half(taco shaped), put it over the plunger on the wire connector so it depressed the plunger halfway down. Then I electrical taped it in place so it doesn't fall off and presto! No more CEL.

    P.S. I just hid the wire connector behind the pass. side head. I zip tied it to a vac. line back there.
  12. davins130

    davins130 New Member

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    Anyone know where to get that cap elsewhere? hardware store? what would you ask for? also i heard if you take the original nut and put a penny in it and tighten it back onto the header it will seal just fine?
  13. MI95Cobra

    MI95Cobra New Member

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    lets just say there are many ways to do things and everyone has their own way...i started off with the egr delete plate...i threw codes and it seemed to me that i lost hp.....so i then got another nut to cap the egr from the intake off...i've had it for a few months...driven many miles and have had no problems with codes or hp....i wouldn't mess with the egr unless your changing headers (like the fox body kind) or putting a new intake or intake spacer on....:SNSign:
  14. legalize420

    legalize420 Active Member

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    i bet i still have the 2 nuts and block off plate laying around somewhere in my garage. i tried the exact same thing and had nothing but problems. just trying to stop people from making the same mistake.
  15. Green 94 5.0

    Green 94 5.0 Founding Member

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    let me reiterate what a couple others have said since some are still posting up bandaids to turn off the cel. there is only one way to remove the egr properly. it needs to be physically removed, then turned off in the eec. there is no benefit to capping the lines and leaving the unit. there is no benefit aside from aesthetics to remove the entire system properly. the egr is doing nothing under wot, period. in fact, the only time the egr is doing anything is under cruising conditions where it is actually beneficial.

    the bottom line is, if you are removing the egr for any other reason besides to clean up the engine bay, just leave it alone.
  16. Green 94 5.0

    Green 94 5.0 Founding Member

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    not trying to be argumentative, but im just curious what the point of doing that was? you still have the ugly contraption on the back of the elbow, and now you have stopped a harmless system from working properly hurting part throttle driveability and fuel economy in the process. this is because the computer is still thinking the system is working fine and adjusting for it accordingly. can you enlighten me? like i said, not trying to be argumentatative or critical, just trying to see it from another point of view. :shrug:
  17. MI95Cobra

    MI95Cobra New Member

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    well i painted mine black to match my intake.....but i originally bought fox valve covers and was told that they would fit under my intake with an 1/2" spacer.....so i cut my egr tube to make the spacer fit...and then i found out that the valve covers wouldn't fit anyway....so here i was with a cut egr tube and valve covers that didn't fit....after some threads and communicating with others i found out that i could delete my egr altogether...so then that adventure began...also i found out a way to use the fox valve covers...i just had to do some engineering....:D
  18. davins130

    davins130 New Member

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    i was taking my intake off yesterday and the egr tube snapped inside the egr valve, so i dont have any choice really but delete it (im not buying a new one). i just cant figure out a good place to buy a cap for the header
  19. gcomfx.com

    gcomfx.com Founding Member

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    My EGR died. My car was running like poo. Wouldn't idle. I noticed the plunger in the EGR wasn't moving. It was stuck in one place. I stuck a screwdriver in it, broke loose the plunger, then the car would idle.

    I wasn't about to pay the big bucks to replace it. So I removed mine. Here is a link. I'll try to fix the images tonight if I can. I didn't realize I removed them from the server. :bang:

    http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=621372

    My car ran fine without the EGR and just rigging the sensor to make the CEL go away. NOW, I have it removed via a chip. Fox headers and no sensor at all. :nice:
  20. Green 94 5.0

    Green 94 5.0 Founding Member

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    ok.....well that makes sense. i wouldnt pay to replace it either. the only thing left of my egr system is the plug on the wiring harness that used to go to it. i have it turned off with the tweecer though.

    davins130, any hardware store should have a cap for that. it is either a 1/2" or 3/4" npt brass pipe cap. i cant remember which since this is something i did 5 years ago.

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